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12-13-2007, 01:49 PM
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#1 |
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Truck and auto performance nut
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: McKinney,Texas
Posts: 3,848
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12 bolt help!
I'm trying to take apart a 12 bolt truck rear end (70's style). Unfortunately the PO evidently over tightened the bolt that secures the pin/shaft (that goes thru the spider gears). That pin you have to pull out so you can push in the axles and get to the c-clips. About 1" of the bolt comes out, leaving some remaining threads (I'm guessing) and the shaft end of it stuck inside the threaded hole. I'm not wanting to drill it out (if I can even get a drill up to it) unless there's just no other way.
So.....how do I get it apart, and the differential out of the housing? Thanks!
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Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
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12-13-2007, 03:10 PM
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#2 |
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Senior Member
 Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Conyers,Ga.
Posts: 7,288
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Re: 12 bolt help!
Gonna be tough without drilling. Try a left handed drill bit.
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12-13-2007, 03:31 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: KINGSPORT,TN.
Posts: 3,035
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Re: 12 bolt help!
YEP LEFT HAND BIT IS YOUR ONLy ROUTE. maybe you can get lucky and use a magnet if theres no threads left on the pin... also if you do try to drill it you better use a transfer punch to locate the center right on ........
bob
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I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16 Last edited by BCOWANWHEELS; 12-13-2007 at 03:32 PM. |
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