'67 step-side replacement rear bumper

[kyull67]

I think the wood will look great once you get it painted.
Are you only using four bolts to hold your bed to the frame, or are the other four hidden?

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by kyull67

I think the wood will look great once you get it painted.
Are you only using four bolts to hold your bed to the frame, or are the other four hidden?

I painted my wood today and it does look good. It has a slightly orange cast that matches my truck. (It also has a tint of pearl, should light up pretty good in the sunlight)

Yeah, it does only have 4 holding down the bed, for now. I haven't drilled out the other 4 yet. Good eyes...

I forgot my camera so I will post photos tomorrow of the painted wood and I should be able to get most of the bed together by tomorrow evening.

Later for now. Don

[caja_larga]

paint question.. Is there a problem with painting things at diffent times. I always thought that paint might not match.

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by caja_larga

paint question.. Is there a problem with painting things at diffent times. I always thought that paint might not match.

The short answer to your question is yes, there can be many problems associated with painting pieces at different times.

The long explination is that everything from outside temp, metal temp (if your booth is 80 deg and the car is 50 deg because it sat outside all night...) reducer speed (slow, med, fast... etc), number of coats, gun (and compressor) air pressure, how you applied the coats (slow, fast, different overlap...) and even the number of coats of clear can slightly change the color.

Don't get me wrong, we are talking small color alterations, but enough to spot if you know what you are looking for. I have even spot painted areas using the same can of paint I used to paint them the first time and it didn't match. (and it was a shade of cream)

Metallics are more easily affected than solids. The best way to paint a car (or truck) is to jamb everything in first, then paint the outside complete. (in the case of a truck, paint the bed off of the truck at the same time you paint the cab). I personally was ok with the slight risks of painting parts sepertately.

There are a couple of areas on my truck that are shaded differently, but so far only I have noticed it.

The rules of thumb, if you are going to paint piece by piece, are...

1. Try to get all of your spraying done aroung the same time. (IE, over the spring and summer). Your temps will be more even.

2. Try to use the same reducer speed each time.

3. Keep track and write down your spraying pressures.

4. Use a sealer primer over everything to keep the color more even.

5. Keep track and write down the number of coats of base or color.

6. Keep track and write down the number of coats of clear coat.

7. Try and buy enough paint for eveything once. (IE a gallon, not a quart each time as you run out) Remember each batch of paint is hand mixed when you order it. The paint stores don't stock your paint already made up, they have a rack of (20-40) toners and use a formula to weigh out how much you need of what.
The guy who mixed your paint two months ago is prolly suffering from a hangover and will screw up your new quart of paint today. Or you will get one guy who mixes everything perfectly one time and the slob (who thinks that a 3-4 gram overpour is "good enough") the next time. Paint (reducer, clear...) by the gallon is actually cheaper than buying 4 quarts. Call your local automotive paint store and see for yourself.

Also avoid spray bombing anything that will be seen as far as color goes. You won't be able to match it, ever. Spray bomb enamel and lacquer will look, feel and wear differently from automotive grade paint. Don't be fooled by the car photo on the can of Cry-lon (spelled differently so I won't get sued), it isn't automotive grade. Cry-lon is great for patio furnature and your dog house security bars, not the outside or inside of your truck.

Hope this helps,

Later, D