How low can I go with stock trailing arms?

[**grumpy**]

That about sums it up

I'm trading my 62 GMC suburban for a 66 short fleet.

I have 90% of the stuff to bag it, but want to know....

I know I have to do a notch, but how low can it go using the stock trailing arms, etc...??

It doesn't nessesarily(sp?)have to lay flat out, just real low.

As for the front, I'd be happy with the c/m laying on the ground.
Will drop spindles and slam bags get me there?

Thanks all.

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by **grumpy**

That about sums it up

I'm trading my 62 GMC suburban for a 66 short fleet.

I have 90% of the stuff to bag it, but want to know....

I know I have to do a notch, but how low can it go using the stock trailing arms, etc...??

It doesn't nessesarily(sp?)have to lay flat out, just real low.

As for the front, I'd be happy with the c/m laying on the ground.
Will drop spindles and slam bags get me there?

Thanks all.

Tire size playa a critical roll in the trailing arm question, the smaller the overall diamater, the lower you can get it. I'm not too sure on exact heights, but you can get pretty low still with just a notch

I believe mine would have laid out front crossmember with bags and spindles, but my exhause held up the truck from going any lower.

[Lane]

I almost started another thread similar to this, but I'll just tag along here if that's ok - with an issue that will come up at some point with this subject.

I've got a '65 short/step, and I've got my 22's(with 285-35's) bolted up to the rear - I've jacked the rear up into the fenderwells to check tire clearance, which is fine. The truck is on jack stands at the moment.

The problem with the stock TA's, I'm finding out, is the lower the truck is, the longer the TA's are and the farther the tire sits back in the wheel well.

Other than moving it all forward, or shorter TA's, is there another option here? It just doesn't look right IMO.

[**grumpy**]

Well...I sorta roll on the traditional side. WWW's on supremes or OE Chromies, or painted steel wheels.

Here's a pic of my old 64 short/fleet. It had 205/75/15 www's on 15x6 Supremes.

It had a small notch, and no drop spindles.

Do You think with a bigger notch out back, it'll still drop more? I mean, will the trailing arms still be ok going lower? Anything I would need to do special?

I know I can go alittle lower up front with spindles. I'd be happy with the c/m just resting on the ground.

I was more concerned with getting the back down alittle more.

I might mesh around with a larger wheel..i.e.16" or 17" with a lower profile wide whitewall. Coker and Diamondback both make radial www's up to 17"

Or, just stick with a 15x6 with a 70 or 65 series tire instead of the 75

[PrerunnerRob]

As the trailing arm moves through its travel, it's axle location will move, however, it will get to its longest point when the center of the axle tube comes in line ith the TA pivot bolt. It all depends on low you want to go, you could always use a block between the TA and axle to offset the swing of the arc.

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by **grumpy**

Well...I sorta roll on the traditional side. WWW's on supremes or OE Chromies, or painted steel wheels.

Here's a pic of my old 64 short/fleet. It had 205/75/15 www's on 15x6 Supremes.

It had a small notch, and no drop spindles.

Do You think with a bigger notch out back, it'll still drop more? I mean, will the trailing arms still be ok going lower? Anything I would need to do special?

I know I can go alittle lower up front with spindles. I'd be happy with the c/m just resting on the ground.

I was more concerned with getting the back down alittle more.

I might mesh around with a larger wheel..i.e.16" or 17" with a lower profile wide whitewall. Coker and Diamondback both make radial www's up to 17"

Or, just stick with a 15x6 with a 70 or 65 series tire instead of the 75

Sweet truck by the way!

[thekid54]

If you locate the airbag anywhere besides the stock spring location, the TA's end up hitting the frame rails, even with a 3" block. You can get pretty low, but you can only lay frame if you notch the bottom of the frame rails to allow clearance for the TA's.

[**grumpy**]

Thanks for the replies so far.

My goal wasn't to lay frame, just be low. Lower than the gold 64 I pictured above.

As for blocks.....Where can I get them? Are they same as typical lowering blocks?

I want it alittle lower than that gold truck, so I'd try a 2" block and bigger notch out back, and drop spindles up front. That should get me where I want, for now...!

It's a straight six, 3spd truck, so I'm doing splits and duals, and a small 4bbl., and HEI conv.
Just a cool little driver.

Let me know where I can look for those blocks, or what to look for.

Thanks again

***Oh, BTW....I have slam re7's and re8's. Will the 8's be good on the back? I bought 2 of each a few months ago.

[protrash64]

CPP has lowering blocks on their site and in catalog....1,2,and 3" I believe.

[Lane]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

As the trailing arm moves through its travel, it's axle location will move, however, it will get to its longest point when the center of the axle tube comes in line ith the TA pivot bolt. It all depends on low you want to go, you could always use a block between the TA and axle to offset the swing of the arc.

True, blocks would solve the issue, but most kits I've seen - like with CPP - are coils not blocks. And I got a great deal on a pair of 5" drop coils... Guess I just need to get the truck on the ground and go from there. thanks!

Sweet gold truck!

[Lane]

Originally Posted by protrash64

CPP has lowering blocks on their site and in catalog....1,2,and 3" I believe.

I couldn't find them.

[PrerunnerRob]

• Rear Lowering Block Kits
CP45 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1/2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP41 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP415 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1-1/2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP42 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

It's in the truck rear suspension catagory

[Lane]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

• Rear Lowering Block Kits
CP45 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1/2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP41 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP415 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 1-1/2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

CP42 1960-72 Rear Lowering Block Kits, 2" Photo/Info $69.00
Buy

It's in the truck rear suspension catagory

Thanks! I'm wondering - now - if a combination block/coil would do the trick. I think it will, but is this a normal look with just using coils? Or am I wrong in thinking the tire will tuck this much with a 5" drop?

I took some pics tonight:


Note the extra space in front of the tire.



The tire is closer on the passenger side, but centering the rear and rolling the fender lips will give me plenty of room.

[PrerunnerRob]

Set the truck back on the ground, and measure the center of the wheel to the ground, and the center of the TA bolt to the ground. This will determine the swing of the of the trailing arm, and if it will pull back toward the cab or keep pushing away.

[PrerunnerRob]

Also, dont forget about the panhard bar. Check your gap between both tires and fenders, they may be different, and will change if you drop it.

[Lane]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

Also, dont forget about the panhard bar. Check your gap between both tires and fenders, they may be different, and will change if you drop it.

Yes they are, the passenger side is closer at the moment. And adjustable P-bar should fix that right?

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by Lane

Yes they are, the passenger side is closer at the moment. And adjustable P-bar should fix that right?

You might not need one, as you go lower, the axle swings toward the driver side. The adjustable bar will fix the allow you to center the axle when the panhard bar has gone beyond the flat horizontal plane.