Cut coils= extra bounce?

[cochino12]

The PO of my blazer cut a lot of the stock springs, I'm guessing about 4" and it bounces like crazy in front. I am going to order some new drop shocks for the front but I'm wondering if the shocks are going to fix the bounce problem or if most of the issue is caused by the springs being too short. Anybody have any experience or thoughts? Thanks

Oh and I also have a set of 3" lower control arms in front

[N2TRUX]

With that much cut they should be stiff rather than bouncy. It sounds like the shocks are toast and are not damping the rebound at all.

[bigblock79]

heated springs will be bouncing

[Ivan D.]

Well first off no one in their right mind cuts the springs with a torch, basically if you torch 'em you don't cut 'em, and if you cut 'em you don't torch 'em. With that said, 4" off means that 2 coils were cut off, which is indeed a bit too much. Where's the problem in all that - cutting coils off the springs effectively increases the rate of said springs, and shocks are designed to work with certain spring rates, so right now the cut springs are a bit too strong for the stock-valved shocks, resulting in the shocks not being able to slow down the suspension fast enough, which creates that bouncy feel you're experiencing. Generally when you install stiffer springs you should also upgrade to shocks with heavier valving, for instance in my Lincoln I have Afco1020 road-race shocks cause my front coils are like 3 times stiffer than what the car had from the factory, and I blew my stock shocks in just a few months.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by Ivan D.

Well first off no one in their right mind cuts the springs with a torch, basically if you torch 'em you don't cut 'em, and if you cut 'em you don't torch 'em. With that said, 4" off means that 2 coils were cut off, which is indeed a bit too much. Where's the problem in all that - cutting coils off the springs effectively increases the rate of said springs, and shocks are designed to work with certain spring rates, so right now the cut springs are a bit too strong for the stock-valved shocks, resulting in the shocks not being able to slow down the suspension fast enough, which creates that bouncy feel you're experiencing. Generally when you install stiffer springs you should also upgrade to shocks with heavier valving, for instance in my Lincoln I have Afco1020 road-race shocks cause my front coils are like 3 times stiffer than what the car had from the factory, and I blew my stock shocks in just a few months.

Thats kind of what I was thinking but I dont know much about it, thanks for the explanation. I was going to order a set of drop springs but I didnt want to spend the extra money but I guess the $70-$80 isnt much and it'll be done the right way. Thanks again everyone

[lolife99]

Hey cochino,... did you have any trouble with the alignment? Usually with a drop a-arm you can't run too much of a drop spring. (maybe 1" or 2" drop). Treat your blazer and yourself to a Merry Christmas,... buy some 3" spindles and some 2" springs(with stock lower a-arms) and enjoy the ride. Drop shocks will also be necessary. Just stay away from Toxic Shocks.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Ivan D.

Well first off no one in their right mind cuts the springs with a torch, basically if you torch 'em you don't cut 'em, and if you cut 'em you don't torch 'em......

Then I must be crazy

Just to clarify the myth that cutting springs with a torch is wrong, it can be done if done correctly. I "prefer" to cut coils with a cutoff wheel, but I have done it with a cutting torch.

The important thing to remember is eliminate as much heat transfer as possible. I use the old trick of submerging the spring in a 5 gallon bucket of ice water. Use a small tip, adjust the flame to cut a thin line and move quickly.

Most of the time I cut coils on trucks for kids that had little or no budget. It was done because they were going to heat the springs and let them sag rather than cut them correctly.The reality is purchasing lowered springs is the best way to do the job properly.

[Ivan D.]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Then I must be crazy

Hehe, obviously not, you know the tricks, I use similar methods for removing brake and suspension components without damaging the rest of the system (constant flow of cold water does it there, not as good as the huge bucket of ice water but still pretty effective). But I was talking about what most shade-tree mechanics would do, such as yank the spring, throw it on the garage floor (or better, just on the driveway), fire up the torch, set it till tis good for cutting sheetmetal, then proceed to cutting the spring, when 15 minutes later they're finally done you know what the result is. That, or they do this:

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

It was done because they were going to heat the springs and let them sag rather than cut them correctly

[Ivan D.]

Originally Posted by cochino12

Thats kind of what I was thinking but I dont know much about it, thanks for the explanation. I was going to order a set of drop springs but I didnt want to spend the extra money but I guess the $70-$80 isnt much and it'll be done the right way. Thanks again everyone

My shocks are like $60-65 each, but the car is scary stable with them - it was a bit of an investment, but after all shocks are a safety item, and any shock is cheaper than a stay in the hospital. Also when you pick you new shocks keep in mind the suspension travel you'll be getting, you don't want the shocks to max out before the control arms hit the bump stops - gotta jack truck up and crawl under and do some measuring there, but I think it's worth the time. I actually run F150 shocks in the rear of my Lincoln, cause of the springs and overall ride height the stock-length ones would max out the negative travel pretty easy.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Hey cochino,... did you have any trouble with the alignment? Usually with a drop a-arm you can't run too much of a drop spring. (maybe 1" or 2" drop). Treat your blazer and yourself to a Merry Christmas,... buy some 3" spindles and some 2" springs(with stock lower a-arms) and enjoy the ride. Drop shocks will also be necessary. Just stay away from Toxic Shocks.

I am taking it for an allignment this week hopefully the monkeys at the shop can figure it out, I havent found a good shop yet. I actually have some spindles ready to put on but I am still running ralley rims and I dont want any rubbing issues, so I'm waiting until I get some new wheels/tires.

[lolife99]

Ditch the drop a-arms. Trim up a set of stock lowers and run your ralleys. (lower edge by the ball joint and remove the snubber mount leaving only the steering stop) "Drop a-arms" just lowers the spring pocket closer to the ground,... and shoves the spindle up to bind up the upper ball joint. (even MORE with drop springs). Just my biased opinion. Ha.