Freeze 12 Recommended to Me - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LBJ · 01-11-2008, 01:20 PM

Talked to a guy in the neighborhood who's been in the car repair business all his life (mid 50's guy). Said that they recommend Freeze 12 when changing over from R12. I may go with that in light of 134a not being designed for the 77 A/C system. 134a will work, but the A/C tubes need to be smaller diameter to work great. I know this has been hammered on this forum and I did some searches on it. But, has anyone done any conversions lately and what were the results? I'd do a conversion myself, but someone said that Freeze 12 requires a license too. Correct? Also, anyone got any ideas on leak finding? Something for the pro?

**Captkaos** · 01-11-2008, 01:41 PM

I converted my 1991 Suburban with 134a this summer. It was arctic in there. (I have the rear a/c also)

spudz · 01-11-2008, 02:09 PM

no u can get freeze 12 at like car quest type stores.. Its actually superior to the others only problem is its explosive.. Its mostly propane.. Therefore illigel for a licenced a/c repair guy to install in a car.. Unlicenced u can get away with it.

LBJ · 01-11-2008, 02:59 PM

I was thinking that Red Tek was the propane stuff. Freeze 12 too huh? Doesn't sound too safe.

cartman · 01-11-2008, 03:06 PM

I would only go with r134a, get a retro fit kit, like 45$ and charge acording to the chart in the kit. It will require less r134a compared to r12. if you charge it to r12 specs, it will be over charged and cool poorly! that's where most people have problems. A adjustable cycling switch may be needed also on older vehicles. I retrofited my 73 c10 years ago worked well but could have used the cycling switch ( cycled too muck at Idle ) I put the switch in when I retrofitted my 84 TA, worked well

cjracing15 · 01-11-2008, 04:58 PM

There is noting what so ever wrong with Freeze-12. But Follow the instructions to the letter!
It is not a drop in, you need the special adapters for the cans and gage manafoild, I would then replace all the seals and the accumulator and the filter. Then TOTALLY evacuate the system COMPLETLY. If your system is totally empty of freon this will not be hard.
You can rent a vacuum pump from Auto Zone and I think the gages also, but you need to evacuate the system to a 30 in vacuum. Then the Freeze-12 web site states for best results to add about 3 oz of ester oil or poly-ester oil they are the same.
You can do this when the sustem is in a vaccum by measuring 3 oz. of oil in a cup and then stick the charging hose from the gages and open the suction side up and it will pull the oil in the system. Make sure you close the gages as soon as all the oil is gone or you will let air in.
Then charge the system to 90% of the original charge of R-12. Here is a couple of links. If you have any questions just ask. I will try to help.

http://www.freeze12.com/convdata.htm
http://www.freeze12.com/convproc.htm

Jamie

Restrorob · 01-11-2008, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz

no u can get freeze 12 at like car quest type stores..

Strange....Anyone can walk into our local NAPA Auto Parts store and buy it no problem, Most all the repair shops around here are installing as well.

79Silv4x4 · 01-11-2008, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captkaos

I converted my 1991 Suburban with 134a this summer. It was arctic in there. (I have the rear a/c also)

My R134a coverteed 91 Burb is the same way!

SSC's76 · 01-12-2008, 04:00 AM

Ive used Freeze 12 2 times I only had good results the 1st time. The can says non flamable on the side so a fireball explosion under the hood shouldent be an issue. The adaptors are nearly impossible to find here so I stick with 134 just for ease and avalibility. IMO R134 is just as good as R12 or F12 except when you get stuck at idle for for a few min and the airflow acress the condensor is reduced.

LBJ · 01-13-2008, 04:34 AM

I'll prolly go with 134a. At least that's my thought pattern at the moment. Not really a rush, the worst winter weather is just ahead. But, the A/C needs to be fixed at some point, now is as good as any. I think I'll go with the 134a and see how it holds up. If I have a major leak (don't think so) I can fix that later. I need to bone up on replacing the o-rings and anything else too. I am going to replace the drier/accumulator also, that's not all too expensive. The A/C used to work fine in this ole truck, so I expect it still works, just needs updating. Thanks for all the help. LBJ

01-11-2008, 01:20 PM	#1
LBJ Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: TEXAS Posts: 378	Freeze 12 Recommended to Me Talked to a guy in the neighborhood who's been in the car repair business all his life (mid 50's guy). Said that they recommend Freeze 12 when changing over from R12. I may go with that in light of 134a not being designed for the 77 A/C system. 134a will work, but the A/C tubes need to be smaller diameter to work great. I know this has been hammered on this forum and I did some searches on it. But, has anyone done any conversions lately and what were the results? I'd do a conversion myself, but someone said that Freeze 12 requires a license too. Correct? Also, anyone got any ideas on leak finding? Something for the pro?

01-11-2008, 01:41 PM	#2
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me I converted my 1991 Suburban with 134a this summer. It was arctic in there. (I have the rear a/c also) __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-11-2008, 02:09 PM	#3
spudz Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Branchville SC Posts: 1,647	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me no u can get freeze 12 at like car quest type stores.. Its actually superior to the others only problem is its explosive.. Its mostly propane.. Therefore illigel for a licenced a/c repair guy to install in a car.. Unlicenced u can get away with it. __________________ 2004 z71, 96 z71 on 38s, 88 Chevy k5 blazer, 4in lift. 84 swb project, 82 SWB project , 84 chevy 4x4 lwb project, 88 Jimmy beater/highschool ride. 79 c30. 99 tahoe 4x4 project. and a bunch of parts trucks..

01-11-2008, 02:59 PM	#4
LBJ Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: TEXAS Posts: 378	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me I was thinking that Red Tek was the propane stuff. Freeze 12 too huh? Doesn't sound too safe.

01-11-2008, 03:06 PM	#5
cartman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gloucester, Massachusetts Posts: 49	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me I would only go with r134a, get a retro fit kit, like 45$ and charge acording to the chart in the kit. It will require less r134a compared to r12. if you charge it to r12 specs, it will be over charged and cool poorly! that's where most people have problems. A adjustable cycling switch may be needed also on older vehicles. I retrofited my 73 c10 years ago worked well but could have used the cycling switch ( cycled too muck at Idle ) I put the switch in when I retrofitted my 84 TA, worked well Last edited by cartman; 01-11-2008 at 03:08 PM.

01-11-2008, 04:58 PM	#6
cjracing15 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Lexington, TN Posts: 1,427	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me There is noting what so ever wrong with Freeze-12. But Follow the instructions to the letter! It is not a drop in, you need the special adapters for the cans and gage manafoild, I would then replace all the seals and the accumulator and the filter. Then TOTALLY evacuate the system COMPLETLY. If your system is totally empty of freon this will not be hard. You can rent a vacuum pump from Auto Zone and I think the gages also, but you need to evacuate the system to a 30 in vacuum. Then the Freeze-12 web site states for best results to add about 3 oz of ester oil or poly-ester oil they are the same. You can do this when the sustem is in a vaccum by measuring 3 oz. of oil in a cup and then stick the charging hose from the gages and open the suction side up and it will pull the oil in the system. Make sure you close the gages as soon as all the oil is gone or you will let air in. Then charge the system to 90% of the original charge of R-12. Here is a couple of links. If you have any questions just ask. I will try to help. http://www.freeze12.com/convdata.htm http://www.freeze12.com/convproc.htm Jamie __________________ The fleet 94 Chevy 4x4 reg cab 2018 Traverse (wifes car) 1977 SWB stepside 1949 Chevy truck

01-12-2008, 04:00 AM	#9
SSC's76 No No Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Pueblo Colorado Posts: 1,781	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me Ive used Freeze 12 2 times I only had good results the 1st time. The can says non flamable on the side so a fireball explosion under the hood shouldent be an issue. The adaptors are nearly impossible to find here so I stick with 134 just for ease and avalibility. IMO R134 is just as good as R12 or F12 except when you get stuck at idle for for a few min and the airflow acress the condensor is reduced. __________________ 1976 Custom Deluxe SWB Med FMB.3/4 Drop. Gen VI 454, Muncie HD 3 speed With Modified OE Hurst Shifter, 3.73 12 bolt, GMPP HO roller cam, Hooker headers, Performer intake with modified Q-jet, Accel distributor. Best 1/4 12.3 @108. Funnest run 19.84 @88 full 1/4 mile burn out. 1997 K1500 ext cab 5.7 stock except muffler

01-13-2008, 04:34 AM	#10
LBJ Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: TEXAS Posts: 378	Re: Freeze 12 Recommended to Me I'll prolly go with 134a. At least that's my thought pattern at the moment. Not really a rush, the worst winter weather is just ahead. But, the A/C needs to be fixed at some point, now is as good as any. I think I'll go with the 134a and see how it holds up. If I have a major leak (don't think so) I can fix that later. I need to bone up on replacing the o-rings and anything else too. I am going to replace the drier/accumulator also, that's not all too expensive. The A/C used to work fine in this ole truck, so I expect it still works, just needs updating. Thanks for all the help. LBJ



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