Help me not screw this new motor up!

[Kixwy2]

I get my new GM crate delivered tomorrow and I'm making a list of stuff I need to do/get while I have the motor out... anything I'm missing you guys can think of? Don't want to have a "Doh!" moment with something busted two weeks later.

manifold gaskets
header gaskets
fuel pump gasket
fan gasket
new motor mounts
clean up fuel sender line
pressure wash inside and general cleaning
new radiator hoses
fluids - oil, coolant, tranny

And is it beneficial to take out the vacuum canister? Or does it do something good? There's no smog requirement on this truck anymore so I don't have to have it in.

[86 GMG]

One Thing That Ive Notice Is Be Sure To Check All Bolts Under Hood Like The Chassis Front End Etc. Years Af Use And No Maintenance Is A Bad Combination

[hot trux]

Originally Posted by 86 GMG

One Thing That Ive Notice Is Be Sure To Check All Bolts Under Hood Like The Chassis Front End Etc. Years Af Use And No Maintenance Is A Bad Combination

new AC-DELCO(GM) thermostat is good insurance 180degree would be my choice.

[cjracing15]

You don't have plugs or wires belts. Also while I had it out I would rebuild my ditribitor with a new moduel and pick-up coil plus cap and rotor.

[Kixwy2]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

You don't have plugs or wires belts. Also while I had it out I would rebuild my ditribitor with a new moduel and pick-up coil plus cap and rotor.

I've got a new distributor with cap and coil, so I'm ok there... I thought it would come with new belts, since it's a crate long block - no?

[xtreme80]

Originally Posted by Kixwy2

I've got a new distributor with cap and coil, so I'm ok there... I thought it would come with new belts, since it's a crate long block - no?

Nope, not unless you bought a crate motor that comes with the accessories already on it. I think those come with belts.

I would also get a new fuel pump and fuel filter while you're at it. The pump is only about 15 bucks new.

[gchemist]

Oil leak proof it!!

[iride]

new hubcap gaskets and some new high speed bumper bolts!!
oil filter or spark plugs?

[GlennBrittain]

Plug the dipstick hole you do not use if yours came with a right or left choice.

[Kixwy2]

Cool!

I bought a new fuel pump, thermostat, belts, and a new air filler neck today.

I also cleaned all the rest of the parts - bolts, pieces, whatever else will go on the new motor. De-gunked the intake manifold and the gak on the starter and alternator. Those were both newish too but the motor was leaking so badly they look like they have been on there forever.

Also got a special break-in oil ordered today that has zinc added, and some other goodies. I guess it's technically considered racing oil, but prevents damage to the flat tappets. The creaky old guy at the auto store recommended it, and I figured, ok... better than the walmart oil.

[cjracing15]

About the oil you use I use rotella 15/40. The reason is I have the flat tappets. The rotella still has the good stuff in it. Most of the other oils have been reformulated for the newer roller moters. We have been useing at work in everything cars trucks semis you name it. There is one car that won't die. It's a 96 grand prix, has over 300,000 on it and still runs very well.

[Kixwy2]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

About the oil you use I use rotella 15/40. The reason is I have the flat tappets. The rotella still has the good stuff in it. Most of the other oils have been reformulated for the newer roller moters. We have been useing at work in everything cars trucks semis you name it. There is one car that won't die. It's a 96 grand prix, has over 300,000 on it and still runs very well.

So have you been usuing this since the EPA changed the oil additive regulations? I've been doing some reading on this (since I don't want to blow up my nice new motor) and it seems like many of the oils no longer have the ZDDP additive unless you buy the Rotella or a specialized racing oil. Or get the GM EOS. Which I've heard is discontinued but may be coming back?

I just want to know what to use from now on... the whole reason I have to replce the motor is a blown cam plus some other yuck. If I can use regular oil with an additive, great - if I should be using something special, I will.

I appreciate y'alls advice - I have gotten TONS of great info here I could never get searching online...

[crossy]

don't forget to plug the one bolt hole in the lower right side of the engine that has passage into the fuel pump rod cavity. if you don't it COULD leak oil badly. A lot of seasoned guys still miss that. I always use it for the battery ground with a 3/8-16x3/4" long bolt so i know something is in it. crossy

BTW- what's a fan gasket. Is it next to the muffler bearings?? :-)

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by hot trux

new AC-DELCO(GM) thermostat is good insurance 180degree would be my choice.

I personally prefer a Stant Super/Stat design T/stat. The Super Stat, is designed to modulate more evenly than a standard T/stat and m akes the overall running temps more even.

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by Kixwy2

So have you been usuing this since the EPA changed the oil additive regulations? I've been doing some reading on this (since I don't want to blow up my nice new motor) and it seems like many of the oils no longer have the ZDDP additive unless you buy the Rotella or a specialized racing oil. Or get the GM EOS. Which I've heard is discontinued but may be coming back?

I just want to know what to use from now on... the whole reason I have to replce the motor is a blown cam plus some other yuck. If I can use regular oil with an additive, great - if I should be using something special, I will.

I appreciate y'alls advice - I have gotten TONS of great info here I could never get searching online...

I have been useing it ever since I rebuilt my motor this summer.

[Billla]

The single most important thing is to preoil the heck out of the engine and to take a little time to ensure all the seals are wet. The second most important thing is to do a proper cam break-in. Finally, run top-quality dino oil (Rotella is a good choice) and a pint of GM EOS and change the oil and filter after break in, after 100 miles and at 500 miles where you can consider the engine fully broken in.

[Kixwy2]

Ok, that's two votes for Rotella oil plus another few agreements from out in the field. Sounds like that is a good one to use. I picked up my case of oil today from the auto shop, but it's nice to know I can get something that doesn't cost $5.50 per quart.

Originally Posted by crossy

don't forget to plug the one bolt hole in the lower right side of the engine that has passage into the fuel pump rod cavity. if you don't it COULD leak oil badly. A lot of seasoned guys still miss that. I always use it for the battery ground with a 3/8-16x3/4" long bolt so i know something is in it. crossy

We caught that today while we had the new engine on the stand!

We got all the peripherals we could (fuel pump, upper motor mounts, manifold, custom egr block, balancer) on the on the block, then dropped the motor in. It wasn't as bad as it could have been, although a pivot point on the chain hoist would have been nice. We ended up leveling out the engine with a jack underneath, then shoving it into place onto the lower mounts. The tranny is bolted up, and one side of the headers are in, but we are having a hell of a time trying to get the driver side headers in. The #1 exhaust pipe has a 120 degree bend that's making it nearly impossible to thread on, much less bolt to the block. We stopped for the night rather than risk busting up the threads.

Originally Posted by crossy

BTW- what's a fan gasket. Is it next to the muffler bearings?? :-)

Oh, yeah, it's just to the right of the wiper fluid dipstick. (doh. meant water pump, thinking behind fan...yeah...)