Hedmann Headers and the clutch Z bar

[prg machine]

Oh what fun it is!!!

Yep been out thee almos the entire day fiting grinding and fitting and assembling and dissassembling the left header and the clutch arm..

first of all I had installed the starter and found out it had to come out to fit the header on that side.... that was pretty easy.

now for the drivers side.. I had a heck of a time getting the clutch Z bar to assemble when putting the engine in and actualy installed the thing while engine was still floating and crossmemer and front motor mounts were still loose...... so after I got the Z bar in I bolted the engine and crossmember mounts up for keeps..............except one promblem.................the Z bar has to be out of the way to instal header on that side.... so unable to pivot the darn Z bar out of the bracket that was riveted down to the frame i ground off the rivets and now that bracket is removable making life a wjhole lot easier. with the header up to the engine there is interference between the rear header tube and the clutch pivot tube..... I filed the slot where the ball stud goes in the frame bracket to allow it to move back a little... i don't want to go to far this way because the pivot tube will be on an angle to the engine block.. i could make a custom bracket and move the two pivot mounts back a ways along the frame ........................but I am tired of screwing with it...


how much dent is okay on the header tube.....................i know it could restrict flow if extreme.................


any one else been in this situation???

I have the Elite headers and they are very nice indeed, just the rear tube on the drivers side is just too darn close to the clutch pivot tube...

DARN IT!!!!!

[Bishops Trucks]

I am putting a 427 with an M21 in my '71 build. I was told to use a '73 to '79 z-bar for the clearance issues. I haven't got to that point of the build because I had to move overseas for a few years. I'm curious if that is really the solution or fabricating some brackets to make things work is the way to go. I'm sure someone can give us some insight in this matter.

[prg machine]

I know for a fact that the 73 and up Z bar is too long for our frames... i had one and compared the two.. at least for stock linkage anyway..

now custom stuff,,, well anything goes!

[special-K]

The problem is the tube itself is in the path of the header.I don`t know why they can`t just let that rear pipe come forward just a tad so it would clear.I`ve seen people move the frame mount back.I wouldn`t dent the header.I know it`s aggrevating,but I just wouldn`t dent the tube.I`ve had a problem with an arm not clearing and moved it on the tube.I`ve seen different brackets on the block for mounting the pivot back,too.Just a plate that bolts to the block with a threaded hole for the pivot ball.

[orneryolbiker]

The clutch z-bar you need is 75 and later that crosses at the rear of the engine the 73 74 bar won't work.

here's right from the horses mouth...Application Footnotes: 208 - Chevy 502 big block generation 6 engines with aluminum cylinder heads will have clearance problems on some applications. Bottom of header flanges may hit head bolts. Notching may be necessary.
112 - Must use factory big block Chevy hardware and mounts.
139 - Must use 1975 and later model clutch linkage located at rear of engine.
D - Not legal for sale or use in California.
1 - Without smog injection or injection heads.
6 - Modification to stock exhaust required to retain catalytic converter.

[Bishops Trucks]

Originally Posted by orneryolbiker

The clutch z-bar you need is 75 and later that crosses at the rear of the engine the 73 74 bar won't work.

On that note, Does anybody have a couple they don't need. Theres a couple people here that need one. '75 & up.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by orneryolbiker

The clutch z-bar you need is 75 and later that crosses at the rear of the engine the 73 74 bar won't work.

here's right from the horses mouth...Application Footnotes: 208 - Chevy 502 big block generation 6 engines with aluminum cylinder heads will have clearance problems on some applications. Bottom of header flanges may hit head bolts. Notching may be necessary.
112 - Must use factory big block Chevy hardware and mounts.
139 - Must use 1975 and later model clutch linkage located at rear of engine.
D - Not legal for sale or use in California.
1 - Without smog injection or injection heads.
6 - Modification to stock exhaust required to retain catalytic converter.

Is that for BBC headers?It could be the same for SBC.I guess your point is the`75-up works where a pre-`75 won`t.

[prg machine]

I have a 76 in hand and it is way too long........ I believe I am moving the bracket back and fabbing a new bracket for the block mount.

[prg machine]

well resolved the problem .... I extended the notch for the frame end of the pivot tube where the stud mounts into about 1/4 inch to the rear and down .. It works like a champ and i have about 1/16 of an inch clearance to the tube... succes!!!

[Bishops Trucks]

What about the torque flex of the motor? Can you get maybe another 1/8" to 3/16" out of it?

[Rollie396]

I can't wait to shoe horn headers into my ride

[special-K]

I wonder what would have made the`76-up work any different.Maybe it all mounts a bit farther back?Use a combination of`76-up brackets and pre-`76 tube?

[prg machine]

that 76 tube is way too long for the 67-72s... i just don't get what people are talking about with that!

[70 net440]

My son's '67 has a small block mounted in the 6 cylinder position. The PO made a bracket for the pivot ball that moved it back on the block about an inch. Been that way for a few years now, with no problems. I'm not sure what brand of headers they are, probobably cheap ones.

[prg machine]

Yea,,, this isn't rocket science that's for sure... almost anything could be used... I actualy built up some spherical bearing rod eye linkages to replace the stock stuff that was wore out... bullet proof now and smooth!!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Going thru that same "fun" myself. The starter went out after only 11-1/2 years. I figure it was the heat soak off the Hedmans. Had to pull the right hedder to get to the starter. Had to pull the starter and dipstick, plugs and wires to drop the hedders down thru the underpinnings. The battery box was corroded in two pieces.
[Decided to wrap the hedders with that snazzy hot rod tape.]
Had to pull the Z-Bar from the left. The speedo cable had to be loosened to
get to the nut on the Z-Bar end. It was a real wrangle to get it off but eventually it did, once I went up and over the frame bracket.
Good thing I looked, my clutch linkage was about to go south.
Also had to pull the alternator and the water temp probe.
Alternator was bad too.
Hell, I might as well go ahead with that overhaul I was contemplating. So I'm putting on Chevy Orange Valve covers, an aluminum water pump and a rebuilt battery box. And maybe a remote Fomoco style solenoid on the fender skirt. I may as well paint the fender skirt semigloss black.

I'm glad my other truck has an L6, so I have a reliable parts runner for these V8 projects.

[prg machine]

Just got my starter out from the rebuild shop,,,, they replaced the solenoid with a high amp high temp unit because I asked about the remote solenoid.... they said the ne solenoid they installed will do the trick!!!!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had the high-end Accel "Ultra-Tork" solenoid p/n 40100C on my starter. It lasted maybe 8 years. They used to be about $25. I just priced one at Jeg's: $32.99. The solenoids that come on the rebuilt Checker Auto "lifetime" starters are stamped "Hecho en Mexico." I don't trust them to be wired right.
Another idea is the quick disconnect. Lying on my back with anti-freeze and oil dripping in my face does not put one in the proper frame of mind to disconnect and/or connect the purple,red and yellow leads by braille. Jeg's and Summit both sell a quick disconnect kit, but to me the wires look too small and the plastic connector would not survive the high heat regime that component would have to endure. It might be a lot cheaper to use one of those CB-type DC connectors thru a high temp sleeve. The red lead to the battery in my case is a 4 gauge line. With a remote solenoid on the fender skirt, the red wire terminates there. Just thinking out loud here.

[special-K]

Just listening out loud here.I follow ya,good thoughts.I guess you never have this problem with a 292,huh?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by special-K

Just listening out loud here.I follow ya,good thoughts.I guess you never have this problem with a 292,huh?

Well. Only in Arizona, 'round about June, before the monsoon rains kick in -- it gets pretty hot. The solution is to pour a gallon of water from an old antifreeze jug on the starter. Works like a charm. Try that on an SBC and you'll crack the block or headers.