Problem installing shock absorbers! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BaggedC10 · 01-15-2003, 12:23 AM

I am using brand-new factory style hardware from LMC Truck for the upper shock mounts. The problem is that the head of the bolt is enlarging the bushing---When I torque the nut from the inside of frame rail. I also placed two lock washers on both sides and it still slipped through. Should I purchase a flat washer that is larger than the bushing and place it between the bushing/head of the bolt? That way, it would apply pressure to the entire bushing, and the bolt would not be able to slip through. Thanks for any suggestions.

bigblock73 · 01-15-2003, 12:25 AM

Yes, you should use a large washer to prevent damaging the bushing and properly seat the shock...they SHOULD have came with the shocks when you purchased them.

-Jeff

BaggedC10 · 01-15-2003, 12:31 AM

Thanks, that's what I thought. When I bought the truck, it used a large bolt with a built-in nut that went inside of the frame rail---Which stopped the end with threads from passing through the frame rail anymore. Hard to explain but I'm sure you have seen one. Anyways, LMC only showed a bolt, lock washer, and nut. Thanks again!

bigblock73 · 01-15-2003, 12:35 AM

I am confused, you have TWO problems here...the bushing getting mangled AND the stud that the shock goes around in not staying in place??

-Jeff

ElGracho · 01-15-2003, 02:13 AM

Each time I have bought shocks for my 80's GM trucks (front or rear) they have come with the studs that go through the frame and all the required hardware. If you have some nice shocks but not all the hardware, I would go to Autozone and pick up some $10 cheapies to get the hardware rather than ordering it from LMC. Probably less money anyhow.

BaggedC10 · 01-15-2003, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigblock73
I am confused, you have TWO problems here...the bushing getting mangled AND the stud that the shock goes around in not staying in place??

-Jeff

Only one problem.

I was describing the kind of bolt that was on there before. I already purchased the hardware from LMC Truck and I'm sure everything will bolt-in place after I purchase two large washers. It has shock extenders on the lower mounts, so I shouldn't have any problems down there.

BaggedC10 · 01-15-2003, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ElGracho
Each time I have bought shocks for my 80's GM trucks (front or rear) they have come with the studs that go through the frame and all the required hardware. If you have some nice shocks but not all the hardware, I would go to Autozone and pick up some $10 cheapies to get the hardware rather than ordering it from LMC. Probably less money anyhow.

Yep, you know what I'm talking about then. I'm using Doetsch Tech shock absorbers f/r and the truck is lowered 7" in the rear.

Like I said one post above, the washers should work. Thanks guys!

BaggedC10 · 01-16-2003, 01:32 AM

Well, the washers did not work. When I torque the nut down, the bushing literally wraps around the lip of the washer and the bushings flatten-out badly. Not in a typical way though. What should I do?

ElGracho · 01-16-2003, 01:43 AM

Do you have a digital camera that you could take a pic so we can see what you are talking about? From what you last wrote sounds like the washers are too small.

BaggedC10 · 01-16-2003, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ElGracho
Do you have a digital camera that you could take a pic so we can see what you are talking about? From what you last wrote sounds like the washers are too small.

Nope, I don't have a digital camera.

Actually, the washers are larger than the bushings and I can't use one size up because they would hit the shock absorber body. I even tried the original hardware (The bolt/stud type) and that did not work for some reason. I couldn't secure it anymore even using an air gun. It's always the little things that drive you crazy!

ElGracho · 01-16-2003, 01:56 AM

Ok, here is the setup I have, does this look sorta like what you are talking about? Of course, I didn't draw the nuts or lockwashers that would be on both ends of this thing.

The washer on the inside is really part of the whole stud assembly and the washer on the outside has a small enough hole that it can only be pushed up to the shoulder on the stud.

BaggedC10 · 01-16-2003, 02:28 PM

That is the setup I had before. Now, I'm using a bolt, lock washer, nut, and two washers on both sides of the bushing. On another forum, a member recommended I torque it down less. I torqued the upper mount to 60 lb-lt of torque. How much would you recommend, anyone?

BaggedC10 · 01-17-2003, 12:36 AM

TTT

01-15-2003, 12:23 AM	#1
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Problem installing shock absorbers! I am using brand-new factory style hardware from LMC Truck for the upper shock mounts. The problem is that the head of the bolt is enlarging the bushing---When I torque the nut from the inside of frame rail. I also placed two lock washers on both sides and it still slipped through. Should I purchase a flat washer that is larger than the bushing and place it between the bushing/head of the bolt? That way, it would apply pressure to the entire bushing, and the bolt would not be able to slip through. Thanks for any suggestions. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

01-15-2003, 12:25 AM	#2
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,826	Yes, you should use a large washer to prevent damaging the bushing and properly seat the shock...they SHOULD have came with the shocks when you purchased them. -Jeff Last edited by bigblock73; 01-15-2003 at 12:28 AM.

01-15-2003, 12:31 AM	#3
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Thanks, that's what I thought. When I bought the truck, it used a large bolt with a built-in nut that went inside of the frame rail---Which stopped the end with threads from passing through the frame rail anymore. Hard to explain but I'm sure you have seen one. Anyways, LMC only showed a bolt, lock washer, and nut. Thanks again! __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

01-15-2003, 02:13 AM	#5
ElGracho Gentleman Jim Driver Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 1,550	Each time I have bought shocks for my 80's GM trucks (front or rear) they have come with the studs that go through the frame and all the required hardware. If you have some nice shocks but not all the hardware, I would go to Autozone and pick up some $10 cheapies to get the hardware rather than ordering it from LMC. Probably less money anyhow. __________________ Joe '75 GMC Gentleman Jim '84 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super duper plain (manual steering, manual brakes, no dome light, no cig lighter) '85 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super plain Vortec 4.8 4L60E trans also: '81 K30, '83 C30 Crew Dually, '84 M1028 CUCV, '85 M1009 CUCV, another '85 C10 SWB, '89 R3500 Flatbed

01-16-2003, 01:32 AM	#8
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Well, the washers did not work. When I torque the nut down, the bushing literally wraps around the lip of the washer and the bushings flatten-out badly. Not in a typical way though. What should I do? __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

01-15-2003, 12:35 AM	#4
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,826	I am confused, you have TWO problems here...the bushing getting mangled AND the stud that the shock goes around in not staying in place?? -Jeff

01-16-2003, 01:43 AM	#9
ElGracho Gentleman Jim Driver Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 1,550	Do you have a digital camera that you could take a pic so we can see what you are talking about? From what you last wrote sounds like the washers are too small. __________________ Joe '75 GMC Gentleman Jim '84 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super duper plain (manual steering, manual brakes, no dome light, no cig lighter) '85 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super plain Vortec 4.8 4L60E trans also: '81 K30, '83 C30 Crew Dually, '84 M1028 CUCV, '85 M1009 CUCV, another '85 C10 SWB, '89 R3500 Flatbed

01-16-2003, 01:56 AM	#11
ElGracho Gentleman Jim Driver Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 1,550	Ok, here is the setup I have, does this look sorta like what you are talking about? Of course, I didn't draw the nuts or lockwashers that would be on both ends of this thing. The washer on the inside is really part of the whole stud assembly and the washer on the outside has a small enough hole that it can only be pushed up to the shoulder on the stud. __________________ Joe '75 GMC Gentleman Jim '84 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super duper plain (manual steering, manual brakes, no dome light, no cig lighter) '85 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super plain Vortec 4.8 4L60E trans also: '81 K30, '83 C30 Crew Dually, '84 M1028 CUCV, '85 M1009 CUCV, another '85 C10 SWB, '89 R3500 Flatbed

01-16-2003, 02:28 PM	#12
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	That is the setup I had before. Now, I'm using a bolt, lock washer, nut, and two washers on both sides of the bushing. On another forum, a member recommended I torque it down less. I torqued the upper mount to 60 lb-lt of torque. How much would you recommend, anyone? __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold Last edited by BaggedC10; 01-16-2003 at 02:30 PM.

01-17-2003, 12:36 AM	#13
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	TTT __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold



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