Wasn't so bad.......

[tcb-1]

So I posted a few days back about flaring my own brake lines. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me.

Backstory. I installed a McGaughy's disc brake/drop spindle kit, a disc brake master cylinder, and a CPP disc brake proportioning valve. Everything turned out nice and fit like a glove........ except the brake lines from the frame up to the prop valve. I attempted to "rebend" the existing drum lines to no avail. I am the world's worst obsessive compulsive and to me, the lines came out looking like crap.

Sooooo borrowied a co-worker's 45 degree double flare tool. It was a cheapo tool, but thought I could do it. No freaking way. The bevel wasn't clean and it always crushed to one side or the other. And I wasn't going to trust my safety to improperly flared lines, so I was stuck. Can't get it to a brake shop because I had no brakes!!!!! So there I was.

So I bit the bullet and bought a KD flare kit from NAPA, several adapter fittings, and some steel line. Buying the more expensive tool sometimes does make a world of difference! The KD flaring tool worked like a charm. I was able to bend the lines like I wanted, flare them perfectly, and satisfy my OCD!!!

Lessons learned this weekend:
1. Buy good (sometimes the most expensive) tools and things go much better.
2. Never underestimate your own abilities.
3. Practice makes perfect.
4. Being a perfectionist can cost you more money that you originally wanted to spend!!

Results:


Thanks for allowing my rant!!!

[HavinSomeFun]

3. Practice makes perfect.

You can come do mine for more practice.

[chevy one]

Looks great, I am almost at the same cross roads with my truck. I have the same prop value from CCP, have you had a chance to do a road test yet? If so is the prop valve working right applying the proper pressure to the rear drums. Reason I am asking is that I read their has been problems with these valves.

[72BlckButy]

Turned out great!

[Premium72]

came out nice. its real easy once you firgure out the tools. itmade all the difference in my engine compartment. i hid my residuale vaulve in the frame for a cleaner look. nice job!

[lolife99]

You do good work,... tcb-1! The KD tool is worth the money. That's what I have. Let us know how good they work without the booster. I definitely think it's cleaner. I want to run a Wilwood aluminum master cylinder without a booster.

[MrBeast]

You're working on old trucks, it is always always always going to cost you more money than you wanted to spend, and if it doesnt cost you more, it will cost you DOUBLE!

[slammed1]

Im glad you got it figured out,double flared work isnt for everyone for sure.

I am thinking you might swap to a vacuum booster later on. Just a hunch.

[tcb-1]

Slammed,
Booster will go in a bit later. This is a budget build, so things are going a little slow. But I will be able to bend the lines without going nuts!

Lolife,
My man. Yep, I believe you recommended the KD. Great tip! Nice quality and still made in the States.

Chevy One,
No road tests yet, I'm still buttoning up everything. I'll give you a heads up when I get it out.

Havingsomefun,
I'll come down there and flare your line if I can take the Harley out for a road trip!! nice.

[lowrollin70gmc]

Those lines look nice.

A side question: Do you need to run the stock "block type" proportioning valve if you have an adjustable prop on the rear?

I'm going to make new lines for my 70 (converted to disks and 71 master, but same prop with wilwood adjustable added after stock prop). So do I need to leave the stocker in, or just run front to brakes and rear thru adjustable?

Sorry to butt in, but by the pictures you're good at this stuff.

Oh, any pictures of tools used? Bender, flare, etc.

[tcb-1]

lowrollin,
thanks for the props! yes, you can run an adjustable prop valve instead of the block/oem valve, however.....

a friend of mine who owns a '66 GTO installed an adjustable Wilwood valve to his system. He still runs the front brake line through the original metering valve and then bypasses the metering valve directly into the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. (he capped off the rear taps in the metering valve). he's never had an issue.

I'll try to get some pics of the flaring kit and the tubing bender. Thinking I may do a "how to" post on flaring brake line. I know it's something I would have liked to have seen.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Well thanks I think you just gave me the balls to go ahead and do it my self.... That looks great..

[tcb-1]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Well thanks I think you just gave me the balls to go ahead and do it my self.... That looks great..

it's really no that hard. but the tools make the difference! (((that's what she said)))

[BigSky71]

I went through three flaring tools until I bought a good one that works right, lesson learned!

[Old Bluey]

I've got about 300 miles on my freshly built lines. I'm going to rebleed this weekend just to make sure I got it all together. It's amazing how much you learn in a short period of time when you buy specialty tools like that.

Nice to know someone else out there was in the same boat. Looks beauty!

My original issue with 4 drums was the rear locking up without much warning. My prop valve is setup for my application (F discs, R drums), but there still seems to be a lot of power to the rear. I'd be interested to know how yours is reacting after break in.

[bigdon-70blazer]

That really looks great! But sorry to yopu guys on the board, he is my brother and I am going to whine a little and he will come and help me when I am ready! Ditto on tools. I always tried to get anything done with the cheapest stuff I could but lessons learned by me that the right tools make the job 1. easier, 2. faster, and 3. better. Oh, and 4. more fun. Great work Doug, He is OCD!