CV joint - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Wreckless_71 · 02-14-2008, 11:55 AM

Is it a bad idea to remove the Cv joint assm. from the front drive shaft? They just seem like such a pain...

OldCreek · 02-14-2008, 04:36 PM

I think it needs it because of the short length of the front driveshaft. Otherwise, there would be too much vibration and bind. I believe this is especially true if there is any kind of suspension lift.
I believe this is why Jeeps normally have a rear cv joint... their wheelbase is so short.

Blazer1970 · 02-14-2008, 08:29 PM

As long as you never go over about 30 mph with the hubs locked in you can probably get away without it. It is there because of the way the u-joint angles are set-up on the front shaft. It eliminates the vibration you would otherwise get from mismatched angles.

Wreckless_71 · 02-14-2008, 11:44 PM

Hey thanks for the replies guys I think I'll just stick with the CV joint after all... It's gonna be my daily driver, not a hard core off-roadin' machine.

jacobs · 02-20-2008, 02:03 AM

I removed my CV joint 15 years ago and I'm glad I did....no vibrations even at 80 mph. It's not lifted though.

Wreckless_71 · 02-23-2008, 01:36 AM

Yeah... it's lifted 4 inches. I decided to just stick with the CV set-up so is there any tricks to putting it together? I took it all a part but it the seal and all that good stuff was gone so it just fell a part. I got the new U-joints and a new CV piece that bolts to the transfer case, but the guy at the auto parts store said there was some trick to putting it all together? Any comments or tips please let me know!
Thanks,
J.D.

**Zoomad75** · 02-23-2008, 03:23 AM

Rebuilding CV's is usually left for a driveline shop. When mine was wasted I thought about doing it myself, but to actually replace the ball could require cutting the end off the shaft. From looking at mine and talking to a shop I know it's worth the money to have a pro rebuild the cv.

TC70C10 · 02-23-2008, 11:01 AM

I just got mine back from HSV driveshaft yesterday afternoon. CV ball kit and sleeve and 2 new Spicer u-joints and labor was $117

TC70C10 · 02-23-2008, 11:02 AM

He charged me 42.50 in labor in 2003 and 45 dollars labor in 2008. Not bad

Wreckless_71 · 02-23-2008, 01:24 PM

This is what I got for replacement...circled in red. I'm not really sure what the big deal is with doing the replacement myself? Looks pretty straight forward...

Blazer1970 · 02-23-2008, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wreckless_71

This is what I got for replacement...circled in red. I'm not really sure what the big deal is with doing the replacement myself? Looks pretty straight forward...

It is all easy as long as the yoke (part #5) is not worn out. This yoke has a little boss that keeps the two u-joints aligned properly, and it can wear out. To replace the yoke you obviously have to cut and weld a new one on. I normally tear them apart, and if the yoke is OK you just put it back together with the new u-joints. If the yoke is bad take just the shaft to a shop and have them weld a new yoke on for you. That way all you will ever pay for is the part that you can't do at home.

**Zoomad75** · 02-24-2008, 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blazer1970

It is all easy as long as the yoke (part #5) is not worn out. This yoke has a little boss that keeps the two u-joints aligned properly, and it can wear out. To replace the yoke you obviously have to cut and weld a new one on. I normally tear them apart, and if the yoke is OK you just put it back together with the new u-joints. If the yoke is bad take just the shaft to a shop and have them weld a new yoke on for you. That way all you will ever pay for is the part that you can't do at home.

Tim's got it right there. On mine the ball/socket deal on #5 was worn out. It needed a new yoke. Got mine done for $77 through a shop I deal with. The big issue is when welding the yoke back on besides making sure it's true is making sure it's in correct phase with the joint on the other end of the shaft. If it's not in phase, the joints can't cancel each other out and it will vibrate regardless if it's been balanced or not.

From what I've heard, even if you just end up replacing the part you circled you almost need 4 hands to get everything together correctly. Meaning it's not as easy as you might think it looks.

Wreckless_71 · 02-24-2008, 12:54 PM

HAHAHAHAHAH! The deed is done... and yes it just about takes four hands to get it all together but other than that it was pretty simple...
Thanks for all the help guys.

02-14-2008, 11:55 AM	#1
Wreckless_71 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kelso, WA Posts: 363	CV joint Is it a bad idea to remove the Cv joint assm. from the front drive shaft? They just seem like such a pain... __________________ 1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver.

02-14-2008, 04:36 PM	#2
OldCreek Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Central Coast California Posts: 1,026	Re: CV joint I think it needs it because of the short length of the front driveshaft. Otherwise, there would be too much vibration and bind. I believe this is especially true if there is any kind of suspension lift. I believe this is why Jeeps normally have a rear cv joint... their wheelbase is so short. __________________ 1972 K20 Suburban 5.7/700r4/NP205 Dana 44/H052 Sold 1972 C10 5.3L/4L60E 12bolt 5Lug - Sold 1971 K5 Blazer 6.0L LQ9 4L60E NP205 Dana 44/H052!!! 1970 K3500 1ton CrewCab 8.1L/Allison1000/NP205 Dana 60/14B!!!! - Sold 1984 K10 SWB 7.4L/4L80e/NP208 Corp 10/12 bolt Sold 1988 V30 CCLB 7.4L/TH400/NP205/Dana 60/Dana 70/3.73!!! (Sold) 2003 K2500HD 8.1/Allison1000/NP263

02-14-2008, 08:29 PM	#3
Blazer1970 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Old Mission, MI, USA Posts: 2,507	Re: CV joint As long as you never go over about 30 mph with the hubs locked in you can probably get away without it. It is there because of the way the u-joint angles are set-up on the front shaft. It eliminates the vibration you would otherwise get from mismatched angles. __________________ Tim

02-14-2008, 11:44 PM	#4
Wreckless_71 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kelso, WA Posts: 363	Re: CV joint Hey thanks for the replies guys I think I'll just stick with the CV joint after all... It's gonna be my daily driver, not a hard core off-roadin' machine. __________________ 1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver.

02-23-2008, 01:36 AM	#6
Wreckless_71 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kelso, WA Posts: 363	Re: CV joint Yeah... it's lifted 4 inches. I decided to just stick with the CV set-up so is there any tricks to putting it together? I took it all a part but it the seal and all that good stuff was gone so it just fell a part. I got the new U-joints and a new CV piece that bolts to the transfer case, but the guy at the auto parts store said there was some trick to putting it all together? Any comments or tips please let me know! Thanks, J.D. __________________ 1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver.

02-20-2008, 02:03 AM	#5
jacobs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 9000' Mountain Man Posts: 326	Re: CV joint I removed my CV joint 15 years ago and I'm glad I did....no vibrations even at 80 mph. It's not lifted though.

02-23-2008, 03:23 AM	#7
Zoomad75 K5Camper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Pueblo, CO Posts: 1,513	Re: CV joint Rebuilding CV's is usually left for a driveline shop. When mine was wasted I thought about doing it myself, but to actually replace the ball could require cutting the end off the shaft. From looking at mine and talking to a shop I know it's worth the money to have a pro rebuild the cv. __________________ Rob Z. 1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP 1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper

02-23-2008, 11:01 AM	#8
TC70C10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Harvest, AL 35749 Posts: 337	Re: CV joint I just got mine back from HSV driveshaft yesterday afternoon. CV ball kit and sleeve and 2 new Spicer u-joints and labor was $117 __________________ 1981 K5 Blazer 305, 4spd, 4x4, 4" Lift, custom bumpers, Warn 9.5 Ti Winch 1995 T10 Blazer 4.3L 4x4 (Son's) 2004 GMC Envoy 4.2L 2WD 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab Z71 4x4 5.3L 240 Fun Finder Travel Trailer Harvest, AL 35749

02-23-2008, 11:02 AM	#9
TC70C10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Harvest, AL 35749 Posts: 337	Re: CV joint He charged me 42.50 in labor in 2003 and 45 dollars labor in 2008. Not bad __________________ 1981 K5 Blazer 305, 4spd, 4x4, 4" Lift, custom bumpers, Warn 9.5 Ti Winch 1995 T10 Blazer 4.3L 4x4 (Son's) 2004 GMC Envoy 4.2L 2WD 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab Z71 4x4 5.3L 240 Fun Finder Travel Trailer Harvest, AL 35749

02-23-2008, 01:24 PM	#10
Wreckless_71 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kelso, WA Posts: 363	Re: CV joint This is what I got for replacement...circled in red. I'm not really sure what the big deal is with doing the replacement myself? Looks pretty straight forward... Attached Images __________________ 1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver.

02-24-2008, 12:54 PM	#13
Wreckless_71 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kelso, WA Posts: 363	Re: CV joint HAHAHAHAHAH! The deed is done... and yes it just about takes four hands to get it all together but other than that it was pretty simple... Thanks for all the help guys. __________________ 1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver.



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