Heater core question

[krue]

I need to put a new heater core in my dad's late 90's S-10. WHat's the procedure?

[68C15]

clear about 8 or 9 hours from your weekend.
lower steering column, remove dash (completely), remove battery, LF wheel well,


tell ya what, PM me your address and I can send you the instructions from Alldata. I did one a couple months ago and fear I may need to do it to the wife's blazer soon.

granted it is nice to have some shop time away from the house but I would rather take a 42oz ball pein hammer to my big toe than do another.

[Tink]

I didn't pull the dash to do the one in my 91 Blazer... I took off the glove box door and the liner for the glove box, then removed all the screws around the black plastic piece that is under and directly behind the glove box. If I remember there was something like two screws on the bottom, one or two on the right side, and I think two on the top. You need to go through the glove box to get the top screws (these are the hardest). After that just disconnected the hoses from under the hood, pulled the dash away just a LITTLE bit, not much, but enough to remove the black cover from under the dash, and then removed the two straps that held the heater core to the firewall. Probably took 2 1/2 hours...

Actually, here is a How-to on it:

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/vi...imate_controls

[68C15]

Tink, in 95 they changed the heater box. it went to a location in the center top of the firewall. you HAVE to remove the dash and the heater case. then remove the core. the evaporator and all the AC system is untouched (thank God).
the biggest problem is the 2 flanged studs on the bottom pass. side that hold the heater box to the firewall. they have nuts on them and the room is minimal at best to remove these. it take either 2 guys or some creativity and bungee cords.

I had to do all this for a guy's 2000 blazer just to replace a $8 mode door that got broken. he declined replacing the core while I was in there. (bad call in my opinion)

[Tink]

I see... better get rid of my 00 Blazer before it needs a heater core then!

[jayharrell]

After you get the dash out and get ready to pull the heater box, there is a hidden bolt that goes into the plastic of the heater box on the very bottom. It comes in from the fire wall. On my 00 s10 2.2, the motor mount was RIGHT in the way. was going to be WAY more job then i had planned for the weekend, so just took a sharp chisle and cut the damn plastic nub off the heater box on the inside. Then the thing came right out.

But like the others said, its a big job. Take off the shifter *mine is a 5 speed*, stearing wheel, pop the defog and AC vents out to get to the screws that hold it in, take out the glove box to access the bolts on that side, there are 2 bolts on each side of the dash, unhook the wiring harness and vacume controlls to the heater, then the dash just tips back and you lift it off the pins. Kind of like taking a tail gate off.

If its warm, and seams like its going to be warm for a while, just bypass the heater core if you don't need defog or heat. Pull both heater hoses from the core and butt them together if you need to by some time.

[68C15]

I forgot to mention. you have to remove the blower resistor to gain access to a screw. this screw is shorter than any others. put this one back in the same spot. a longer one will interfere with the temperature door movement.

[68C15]

well? is it done yet? LOL