Like it were stock...

[AceX]

Alot of you guys are afraid to cut into metal. I understand that it can be really intimidating/scary to cut into that classic sheet metal. I also understand wanting to keep the truck original by not cutting it up. I have personally traveled both roads, the first being with my 1954 GMC100 which actually has a rebuilt tube radio, and the other extreme being my '85 Silverado which sports a 1300w ARC Audio sound system.

Right now, I'm going to explain how to get the best of both worlds, out of your truck.

Let's start where all systems should start, the head unit/source/radio. There are several options we can explore, but to explain them all would take alot of time and could get confusing quick. For simplicity, let's choose a factory appearing unit from Custom Auto Sound. I would also drop the extra coin on a 10-disc CD changer which will fit nicely under your seat. I'm told that you can also find these same units with an iPod hookup but can't seem to find them.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.asp?page=93

Now that we have a source to feed signal to the system, we need to get some amplification going. The engineers at ARC Audio have listened to our cries for help and have engineered the new KS125.2 Mini. It's a 250w RMS amplifier that is small enough to fit in your glove box. Each one measures 8.25"L x 4.75"W x 1.7"H and can be wired to put out 70 X 2 @ 4 ohms, 125 X 2 @ 2 ohms and 250 x 1 @ 4 ohms. Yes, they can be used as a sub amp too. You can place these anywhere you like, but my own personal suggestion is to place them under the seat next to the CD changer.

http://www.arcaudio.com/news.asp

Ok, so, we have a good radio, plenty of power, now we just need a set of speakers and a sub and we're set. Well, the sub is an easy choice in my opinion. The new Kicker CVT series of hallow mount subs can perform as needed and will play all day long without a problem. Pioneer's shallow mount subs sound just as good as the Kickers, but cost a little more. JL Audio just released their new T5 woofers that are thinner than both the previously mentioned parts, require less air space, will be louder, and sound better, but also cost twice as much.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...7C10VT2&tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...TSS2541&tp=111

You'll need to build a box for the sub. It should be ~1cuft/sub of airspace inside for the sub(s) to perform as best they can. Most local shops can build you a good box or you can take a stab at building one yourself. 3/4" MDF works best. Make sure to seal all the seams with wood glue and the holes for the wiring with silicone.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GWqC8zQ...px?i=130SBOX10

The speakers for this lovely unseen system are a tougher choice. because this little "article" has to cover all the years of trucks, I'm going to suggest that you order or have made, a set of custom kick panels that can house good component set. The speakers that you choose will vary greatly with the types of music that you listen to. For those of you who listen to big band, jazz, classical, and music that is mostly instrumental, a set of MB Quarts is best suited. For those listening to rap, hip-hop, and other bass-heavy music, a set of components from JL Audio should do well in your truck. For those of you who listen to rock, country, and alternative, a pair of ARC6000 components from ARC Audio will be perfect.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...3&tp=106&avf=N
http://www.mbquart.com/en/produkte/car/
http://www.arcaudio.com/productdescr...es/arc6000.asp

When you install the new system, be sure to add sound deadener to the interior. These trucks come form the days when steel was the only material a man would be caught driving in, and unfortunately, steel resonates, bad. Adding some sound deadener (Dynamat) will go a LONG way as far as improving sound quality (SQ), SPL (volume), it will also cut down on road noise and insulate the interior.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...00319&D=400319

If you have to do the sound deadener in stages for whatever reason, go in this order:

Doors
Floor
Back wall
Headliner
Firewall & kick panels

When building the system bit by bit:

Head unit/source/radio (CD changer?)
Amps
Speakers
Sub(s)


Questions? Comments?

If someone wants to send me their truck and the parts, I'll build it and give you a how-to as well...

[72 cheyenne pdx]

Nice write up AceX. The only difference is the building bit by bit stereo system. I would go in this order.

Head unit
speakers
Amp
Sub


This way I can install the head unit and speakers to be able to listen to music.

If you are waiting to install everything at once, then your way is great. After buying the head unit, I couldn't wait (especially if you currently don't have tunes in the truck) to be able to rock out.


SEA

[AceX]

The only reason I suggest going with the amps before the speakers was because most component sets are going to require more power than the headunit can provide. If you choose a set of smaller coaxial speakers, then yours would be a better route to take.