Found a crossmember off a '90 Burb - will it work on my truck?

[desertPOS]

I have a '69 C20 and want to swap the front crossmember from a later model truck over so I can get the disk brakes to go with. Anyway, found a complete front crossmember off a '90 Suburban (8 lug), and I've been told that it would swap directly over. Any insight? Seems like some models this year would NOT work, but the suburban will work for some reason. Just want to make sure before I drive out to pick it up... Thanks...

[slammed1]

Since 90 Suburbans carried the older style bodies and frames like the 73-87 trucks you will be fine as many have done this swap. Get as mnuch as you can suspension/brake/hoses wise to be safe that you have everything. What are you doing about a rear axle set up?

If this was one of the later rounder suburbans that matched the 88-98 trucks you could still use the frt suspension but you would need to graft on the entire frt portion of the frame basically to be able to use those parts,as they are not bolt on crossmemebrs then.

[desertPOS]

It's off of this. As far as the rear axle is concerned I'm just going to leave it drum, but am going to see if I can get the master from this burb as well. If not I'll get it somewhere else. Just wanted to make sure it's a bolt on deal, since I'll be doing this with the engine in the vehicle over a weekend so I can keep driving it the following week...

[desertPOS]

So to bring this thread back to the top.... Does this sound reasonable to everyone? Is $200 a good deal for the crossmember, susp, rotors, bolts, hoses (possibly master)?

Then let me get this straight, because I just want to make sure 100% before I go forward with this... Is swapping the entire front crossmember the ONLY way to get disc brakes on the front of my C20? There's no drop spindle I can buy that I can use, or other spindle that'll bolt on? Seems like no one's really replying to the thread, does no one know or what? Just concerned... I don't want to spend tons of time and effort doing this whole thing, only to find out that there was an easier, smarter way all along. Are there any alternatives pro/con to getting disc brakes on this thing any other way? Just want some info, and wasn't able to find in any searches that I did. Thanks...

[rlm316]

$200. is a good price. I paid $225 here in NJ. If you are going to do this swap, to do it right take the entire crossmember. The steering stops are different for a disc brake truck as compared to a drum set-up. Most of the parts for the front end are the same part # from the '69. I did the same change over on my '70. It's a piece of cake. You will need to re-locate the front brake lines to pass in front of the crossmember so that they will not bind when you turn the wheels. If you have any questions, I will try to answer all that I can. Just shoot me a PM. I have some pictures here on the board somewhere. If I find them, I will post them on this thread for you. Good luck, Lane.
I believe that the cut-off is '91 for blazers and burbs. 3/4t stuff is practically identical.

[rlm316]

Here are some pics of a '90 burb crossmember under a '70 C20

[rlm316]

Here are a couple more showing how I routed the brake lines.

[dave2953]

My swap came from an '89 'Burb and Suburbans were the same from 88-91 (same as 73-87 C-10). I just swapped the arms, spindles, centerlink, etc. I'm not sure if you can do that on a C-20, though. Swapping the whole crossmember isn't bad from what I've read. I also used the booster/MC from the Suburban. It took a little fabrication to make it work, but it stops on a dime now. Let me know if you have any questions.

[desertPOS]

Thanks guys! That's what I was wondering. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to bust my ass for nothing. rlm316, that's a CLEAN truck. I almost feel bad about working on mine now. I'd love to tear the cab and everything off... Dave, when you say the boosterr/MC took a little fabbing to make work, would you mind expounding on that just a little? Thought it was just a bolt-up deal...

Thanks again...

[dave2953]

The later style boosters don't mate perfectly to the firewall. The bolt won't align. To get around this I slotted the holes in in my booster bracket so it would fit. I also did it to make the booster adjustable height-wise. Here are a couple pics, although they aren't the best in regards to detail. I got a lot of my information from member Brad. He did a similar swap and this thread was very helpful. Here is a link to it:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=215980

[desertPOS]

Oh, that's not bad! Thanks for the pictures, I think I'll have no problem with this. I'll even do a write-up on it when I do it just for the hell of it. I was thinking reflaring brake lines and rewiring things, which are two things I hate doing. Overall swapping in the new hardware doesn't seem too bad, I just like to know what I'm in for beforehand, you know?

[rlm316]

There will be two holes on the verticle part of the frame rails that will need to be drilled on each side. Actually, one drilled and one opened up. Make sure that when you bolt up the new crossmember you have the 3 hole flat washer under the bolts that connect the horizontal part of the frame rail to the crossmember. That is the hardest part. You may also want to look at changing the motor mount towers to the newer style while everything is apart. There is a thread on here that tells you how to do that also. I have not tried that one yet, I was waiting to finish my motor before I went to drop it in and check on the exact motor placement. Lane

[desertPOS]

well I finally got my **** together and went and picked up the crossmember I agreed to buy from this dude forever ago. Brought it home Saturday moring and started tearing it apart and organizing it on Sunday. Check it out:

In the truck after started tearing it apart:

[desertPOS]

apart, labeled, waiting to be cleaned up:

[desertPOS]

Now I just need to order up some new ball joints tie rod ends, bushings, bumpstops so I can put it together, after I clean everything up and repaint. I got this master cyl. too for free, think it's off an 80's burb. Not sure if I can use it or not. It has a smaller footprint 6-hole bracket to mount to the firewall. As long as the rods inside are the correct distance so I can just drill out the bracket and bolt up to my existing brakelines, it should be useable? Thought I'd get your opinions. Looks like it's the same one that dave pictures above?

[desertPOS]

One more, would be great to get some opinions...

[desertPOS]

Originally Posted by desertPOS

well I finally got my **** together and went and picked up the crossmember I agreed to buy from this dude forever ago.

wow I got sensored!! Anyway, nobody has any opinions about my master cylinder? how sad...

Also like the look of the metal cylinders as opposed to the plastic I have here. Not sure if I want to use it just because of that...

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by desertPOS

wow I got sensored!! Anyway, nobody has any opinions about my master cylinder? how sad...

Also like the look of the metal cylinders as opposed to the plastic I have here. Not sure if I want to use it just because of that...

But you know the plastic one will say "hey I have updated my old truck to new braking stuff" to the those who know the difference anyway...

[desertPOS]

true. Is there a difference throughout the years in the distance from the top of the brake pedal to the master cylinder? Stroke I guess it would be called?