who do i want to order my c-notch from??

[Dropt72Shortbed]

i brought up this question a while back and forgot the answer...

which c-notch doesnt interfere with (or doesnt interfere as much as the other brands) the adjustable tracking arms? also did anyone find a c-notch and adj tracking arm that wont interfere with each other when you get real low?

got my por15 and degreaser here, beds off, springs are out, time for me to notch the frame, paint it and get my bags in.. so i need to order that notch ASAP.

[Slammed67]

The Classic Performance Products C-notch will interfere with the Early Classics modified panhard bar. See pic below.



And here is how I fixed it.....

[Dropt72Shortbed]

so it orginally mounted under the axle on top of the arm and you just cut the mount down and welded it down into the side of the arm?

[Slammed67]

Yep! The kit comes with the bracket that fits between the arm and the axle pads. It also comes with a spacer plate for the other side so they are the same. I just hacked off the part of the bracket that the rod mounts to and welded it to the inside of the trailing arm.

[Dropt72Shortbed]

oh yea nother question slammed, your pumpkin doesnt hit the bed floor with the axle bottomed on the c-notch does it?

[Reumster]

My question is the C-notch kit from Classic Performance Products the only kit out there bolt on? And is it a true bolt on aplication or do you recommend welding it also? I'm thinking of getting it soon, along with a bolt on hidden hitch.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Dropt72Shortbed
oh yea nother question slammed, your pumpkin doesnt hit the bed floor with the axle bottomed on the c-notch does it?

If you do NOT use the snubbers that come with the kit, the pumpkin WILL hit the bottom of the bed. It will also hit the bed crossmember just forward of the third member. If you use the snubbers as provided, you'll lose about 1 1/2" of drop but won't have the clearance problems described above. I run without the snubbers but my bed floor is raised 2" and I clearanced the crossmember.

Originally posted by Reumster
My question is the C-notch kit from Classic Performance Products the only kit out there bolt on? And is it a true bolt on aplication or do you recommend welding it also? I'm thinking of getting it soon, along with a bolt on hidden hitch.

It's the only kit I'm aware of. I bolted mine on. It comes with grade 8 bolts and seems to be rock solid once mounted. However, I do not consider the product a true "bolt on" application for anyone lowering their truck more than 6". The reason is that to lower more than that you MUST resolve the rearend shift due to the Panhard bar geometry. Since the logical choice is to go with the longer Panhard bar (Super Track Bar) from ECE, and that bar mount interferes with the notch kit as Slammed67 showed above, you've got to cut something. He cut the bar mount. I chose to modify the notch itself. So on my truck, the notch on the right side is much bigger (front to rear) than the one on the left, allowing the ECE Panhard bar mount to travel up into the notch as needed.

I hope this helps,

Kenneth

[RUDEDAWG]

build your own! you would be suprised how easy it is if you have a welder, grinder, and a torch. I built my own out of 1/4 inch stock using a piece of cardboard as a template.Cut the frame notch out with a sawzall to reduce heating the frame up.

[Dropt72Shortbed]

Originally posted by XXL

If you do NOT use the snubbers that come with the kit, the pumpkin WILL hit the bottom of the bed. It will also hit the bed crossmember just forward of the third member. If you use the snubbers as provided, you'll lose about 1 1/2" of drop but won't have the clearance problems described above. I run without the snubbers but my bed floor is raised 2" and I clearanced the crossmember.

the bumpstops on the kit are 1.5" thick? damn. id like to get down that extra 1.5" but i kinda want to run a wood bed so i might just have to fab up some taller crossmembers etc...

[Slammed67]

XXL is correct. The pumkin will hit the floor without the snubbers. I resolved this issue my raising my bed floor 1.5". Mine is a steel floor, but I'm sure a wood bed would be done in the same manner.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Dropt72Shortbed


the bumpstops on the kit are 1.5" thick? damn. id like to get down that extra 1.5" but i kinda want to run a wood bed so i might just have to fab up some taller crossmembers etc...

As you're planning up a raised floor, don't forget that the back end of the floor will be exposed (stock, it is basically flush with the rear sill. So if you're going to do a wood kit, you'll have to be creative about finishing off that end since you probably won't want end grain just sticking out at you.

Kenneth

[XXL]

Originally posted by Slammed67
XXL is correct. The pumkin will hit the floor without the snubbers. I resolved this issue my raising my bed floor 1.5". Mine is a steel floor, but I'm sure a wood bed would be done in the same manner.

Got any pics of this? Did you just literally raise the stock floor or did you refit it with new material?

Kenneth

[GMCGRANDS]

Slammed67 how much drop do you have and what kind? I just bought a ECE 4/6 kit but havent installed it yet. I was considering a C-notch to allow me to go lower later (I have the frame stripped at the moment). I wasnt aware of the problem with the track bar. Do you know how much clearance would be between the frame and axle with the ECE 4/6 kit or how much lower I can go with the track bar becoming a problem with or without a C-notch?

[Slammed67]

GMCGRANDS: My truck has air bags. I'd think with the 4x6 drop, you'd be okay with the c-notch since you'd probably leave the rubber snubbers in place.

XXL: I actually raised the stock floor. I've got some pics at home that I can send you. (I'm at work now) It was pretty easy to do. I wasn't about to put a big "hump" in my floor or cut out a hole for the pumkin.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Slammed67
GMCGRANDS: My truck has air bags. I'd think with the 4x6 drop, you'd be okay with the c-notch since you'd probably leave the rubber snubbers in place.

The problem doesn't seem to be too bad until you get the 6" drop point. To see what's actually happening to the rear end as the truck drops down, you can take your springs out of the rear and slowly lower the truck down until the axle rests on the frame. Take tire/wheel/fender clearance measurements from BOTH sides of the truck before you lower it, and do the same after. The measurements will indicate that the body has shimmied to the left relative to the rearend (actually, it's the rearend that has shifted to the right). The reason for changing the Panhard bar is to correct this problem. And a full width bar like the one from ECE does a better job than a short one (like the stock bar) because the arc that it swings in is much less severe, thus making the sideways shift less pronounced as you bump up and down in the road. The aftermarket usually have the added feature of being adjustable so you can find the ideal center. *phew*

Originally posted by Slammed67
XXL: I actually raised the stock floor. I've got some pics at home that I can send you. (I'm at work now) It was pretty easy to do. I wasn't about to put a big "hump" in my floor or cut out a hole for the pumkin. [/B]

I'd love to see the pics. I had originally had some diamond plate steel cut so I could go on either side of the rearend and then I was going to do a single piece rolled to fit side to side along the axle line. Then I decided I'd rather have a shorter bed floor than one with a lump in it. But I haven't done anything about it yet. As of now I have the two pieces of steel mentioned above clamped in place to the new bed floor frame I made out of 2 x 2 square tube. So every time I hit a big bump in the road it sounds like Fred Sanford just pulled up . I have been contemplating grafting in a sheetmetal bed floor from a fleet but I still have to figure out what to do with the end where my bed floor is raised above the tailgate line (when down). I think my best bet is to go back to the diamond plate, but just get one piece cut to fit and zip it in. Then I can get nasty with the bedliner material and I'm done. Hmmm... so many projects, so little time.

Kenneth