DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bufmatmuslepants · 03-18-2008, 03:48 AM

over the past few weeks ive been wet sanding and prepping my truck for a cheapo paint job and i have a few questions as i get closer to time to paint. ive been using an abrasive pad from advanceauto on a semislow speed drill to take off the surface rust and peeling paint, and a rubber sanding block with 320 grit to wetsand, using a carwash sponge to apply the water keeping the surface wet. duplicolor rattle can high-build primer is the primer being used.

what grit sand paper should be used to rough up the surface for final paint?
through my sanding, ive noticed the truck has about 4 coats of paint on it. i was thinking of just sanding the truck down to the stock coat of paint, because ive heard it is fine to paint over the factory paint. should i just take all the paint off and prime the whole truck, or is the factory coat a good base?
does anyone have any recommendations for the brand of spray paint to use?
once the paint is laid down, what grit paper should be used in final wetsanding to get the surface ready for clearcoat?
is there a spray can of clearcoat which would give a decent finish?
if so, what grit paper should be used on the paint to prep for clearcoat?
what are the final steps that need to be done to get a nice finish on the clearcoat? (grit sandpaper for each step, and final buffing)
my father wants me to do all the prep work then turn the truck over to someone else such as maaco or a local body shop to lay down the paint. how much would this typically cost if ive done all of the prep work?

ive thought about doing the roll on paint idea, but it takes so long to dry and im doing this whole project outside, im afraid dust will get into the paint before it can dry. im leaning towards blue because gloss black shows too many imperfections and waves.

if anyone has any tips or tricks or ideas please feel free to post them, ive never attempted to do this before and want to get a decent paint job for cheap that can be done in the gravel parkinglot of my apartment.
thanks

JAKES 68GMC · 03-18-2008, 04:03 AM

I dont know if I'd use spray paint. Some rustoleum and a cheap paint sprayer may be a better choice in the long run.

Pyrotechnic · 03-18-2008, 04:17 AM

Yes, get a cheap paint gun and some single stage automotive paint. Practice a little on something besides the truck, watch some videos, read instructions, and get comfortable with the gun.

I know it's a little more work, but it will definitely come out better than rattle cans. A cheap paint gun and some cheap paint is way better than rattle cans.

piecesparts · 03-18-2008, 04:26 AM

The question, here is WHAT DO YOU want it to look like when you are done. You know there have been several articles in the Super Chevy Magazine, Hot Rod Magazine and Sport Truck Magazine on just what you are doing. They cover a lot of the basics on doing a paint job.

Having done a few Back of the garge type paint jobs, I would do some things like #1 get the body completely sanded with a 320 grit wet and dry paper or scuffed with a 3M paint prep pad. #2 If you have body work to do, get it done and then block sand the whole area to get it as smooth as possible. #3 Use a cheap black paint ot mist over the primer to allow you to see the ripples in you putty work. #4 If you have rust holes or damage DO NOT pile on the body putty, repair the body with a patch panel or fiberglass and then smooth it with a thin film of putty. A D&A sander will give you fast sanding finishes, but tends to leave circular scratches that show up in the finish paint work. You can paint almost anywhere, with a gun, but you have to control the damn bugs when you do. They tend to get into the finish coat, at the most inopportune time. I personally like a base coat/clear coat finish myself, but there are primo single stage paints on the market.

bufmatmuslepants · 03-18-2008, 08:16 AM

appreciate the responses guys. i would like to do a real spray job with a spray gun but i dont have a air compressor here at school. i dont have alot of tools with me and dont know anybody with a compressor. unless i can come up with a compressor, im going to have to go with the rattle can.

killthewabbit · 03-18-2008, 08:36 AM

I'm in the middle of a test hood using rustoleum and rollers. I heard of some people even using Wagner power painters and the like. Seems like it would go faster than rollers and be more even than rattle cans, but I never really saw anyone posting up results. I would imagine the Duplicolor paints would work pretty good.

After rattle canning the bottom of my test hood in my single car garage, I would recommend doing the roller stuff if you have to do it outside in the apartment complex parking lot. There's just too much overspray when you're spraying. People who park anywhere near you will be ready to kill you after you ruin their cars with your overspray. One of the good things about the roller method is that you can do a coat whenever you feel like, instead of worrying about flash times, etc. If you roll a coat on and don't have the opportunity to do another one for a week or so, it's no big deal. I say wait for the weather to look like it's going to be clear for a day and roll away.

*disclaimer - there are a lot of people who have insanely passionate opinions both for an against this. I personally like the price, the challenge of doing it myself, and the impossibility of making my truck look worse than it already does. Even still, I'm doing a practice hood first to get my technique down. Just be prepared to hear the onslaught from people for and against this.

Blackstone · 03-18-2008, 04:39 PM

I dabbled with the roller process last summer using "Top Secret Coatings" TS-4 urethane-reinforced enamel (they had the best color options). Results on my test panels were impressive. When spring comes I plan to experiment with the Wagner. The process works, you just need lots of patience and the ambition to read the 200+ pages of the legendary Moparts "paint job on a budget" thread.

I recommend reading the following, then using the roller method with either Rustoleum or Brightside marine paint... The Moparts board offers the most support for these brands.

Here's one of my rolled test pieces(before polishing):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...z/100_2454.jpg

Moparts discussion board, thread I:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Moparts discussion board, thread II:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Moparts discussion board, thread III:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Enjoy!

vintagesteel · 03-19-2008, 06:32 AM

I would have a serious problem with spraying a solvent based paint through a sprayer that has an electric motor.JMO. It's hard for me to understand people spending tons of money on wheels, motor work, suspension, then $50 on a paint job. Why don't you prep it, take all the trim off you dont want painted and get a $250 paint job from Maaco? Alot easier to deal with later when you CAN afford a decent paint job. Try sanding rattle can paint off when you want a good paint job. Job will cost you 3 times as much because now you have a PO'ed painter.

Blackstone · 03-19-2008, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

I would have a serious problem with spraying a solvent based paint through a sprayer that has an electric motor.JMO. It's hard for me to understand people spending tons of money on wheels, motor work, suspension, then $50 on a paint job. Why don't you prep it, take all the trim off you dont want painted and get a $250 paint job from Maaco? Alot easier to deal with later when you CAN afford a decent paint job. Try sanding rattle can paint off when you want a good paint job. Job will cost you 3 times as much because now you have a PO'ed painter.

I agree for the most part, only because dust is going to be an issue regardless of which DIY method used. If there was a garage involved, I'd say go for it. I've seen dozens of rolled paint jobs outshine and outlast Maaco's base packages but for $100 or so more, he won't have dust and bugs in his paint.

**old Rusty C10** · 03-19-2008, 11:36 PM

ya know years ago i had a guy who had an accident and we bought a door for him out of a junkyard. we took this door into the basement and set it up on horses and we carefully wet sanded it smooth and then spray bombed it with primer then we bought about six of the duplicolor spray cans and very carefully sprayed the door that way the color of his car and it came out good.. almost looked like a real paint job.. now my moms basement is like hotter than hadies but it came out nice and it lasted at least three or four years until he got rid of the car.. he did also wash and wax the car too so it held up for that... dunno if that helps ya

piecesparts · 03-20-2008, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

ya know years ago i had a guy who had an accident and we bought a door for him out of a junkyard. we took this door into the basement and set it up on horses and we carefully wet sanded it smooth and then spray bombed it with primer then we bought about six of the duplicolor spray cans and very carefully sprayed the door that way the color of his car and it came out good.. almost looked like a real paint job.. now my moms basement is like hotter than hadies but it came out nice and it lasted at least three or four years until he got rid of the car.. he did also wash and wax the car too so it held up for that... dunno if that helps ya

HMMMM "Almost looked llike a real paint job". Makes one think, doesn't it. duplicolor advertises their paint products and if you are doing smaller areas, then I could live with them, but a bigger project is different in my mind. I agree with the thought that if you prep the truck, then go to Earl Scheib or Maaco, to have then spray it, then you cannot loose. Those painters spray paint every day and are good at their work. The prep that you get those companys to do, is where they fall down and fail at. It is ALL in the prep.

**old Rusty C10** · 03-20-2008, 05:35 AM

actually the one time i had a car painted in maaco what i did was find out who was painting it and then i told em look i want it to come out decent and handed him $20 and told him there was two more of them for him if it came out looking extra nice.. the guy did a wonderful job on the car .. ive seen some people get their car painted there and it looked like the sprayer and masker were both visually impaired

Rc 415 · 03-20-2008, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

actually the one time i had a car painted in maaco what i did was find out who was painting it and then i told em look i want it to come out decent and handed him $20 and told him there was two more of them for him if it came out looking extra nice.. the guy did a wonderful job on the car .. ive seen some people get their car painted there and it looked like the sprayer and masker were both visually impaired

Couple extra 20's eh? What decade was that in

I think it would need to be hundred dollar bills these days

AlaskaChevy1 · 03-20-2008, 08:46 AM

Hey- my 2cents- Go with a maaco/schieb type deal.-You will have a considerable expense buying enough materials to DIY, use that money towards maaco, put all your time into prep work,(look online for past articles from Car Craft on how to get the best paintjob from maaco) basically details a total tear-down of exterior, nameplates, trim, wipers, doorhandles, drip rails, ect... also you may want to remove the locking bead in the front/rear window gasket so it will be loose enuff to mask easy. massive cleaning with wax/grease remover. scrub w/ wet scuff pad and prep paste all places you want your paint to stick! power washing all the cracks and corners.

I would go to a autobody supply store for all that stuff. and see if they have an affordable quality primer. I've heard there is some roll-on primer that has a heardener- you roll-on, let cure, and sand smooth. I think rattle can products never really dry 100%, and if you paint over them it will soak-up under your new paint and show feather rings. you could probably sand and polish the macco paint for an even better result.

If you really want to try the roller/rustoleum deal Car Craft recently had an article on that as well, I think they did a little Falcon, detailing all the steps. Good Luck! and let us know what you decide/ results.

vintagesteel · 03-20-2008, 04:04 PM

I used to paint for Maaco in 97. I needed a job. $20 is what we got per car to paint. The preper and masker got the same. Painted 30 cars a week.Pretty good money for what I did. Wiped the car down and sprayed. Worked there for 6 months. Painted @720 cars. I used it as experience. So $60 is the same as painting 3 more cars that day. I guaranty the painter appreciated it. Besides $250 paint job, take out materials, and pay 3 people to work on it, it still don't add up. Not much profit in a paint job for them. Its conning people in upgrading is where they make their money. Just stick with the basic job. Might even be cheaper prepping your self. Don't remember their policy. As far as polishing, I would be careful. I put more then enough paint on because I polish everything I do. Some painters put on just enough to cover. You can polish a single stage metallic but you will silver it abit. The metallic is silver and when you sand it you will cut the color off of it. Just slightly changes the color

Blackstone · 03-20-2008, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

I used to paint for Maaco in 97.

I've heard that if you bring in your own paint, Maaco will spray it for you. Is there any truth to this?

vintagesteel · 03-20-2008, 05:27 PM

Don't remember. I don't think i had anyone do that. It's a franchise like Sonic. We done things a little different than some of the others. The one I worked at shot Western, Nason Urethane, and Sherwin Williams base/clear. There is a reason normal body shops don't shoot cheap paint. You can buy a gallon of nason color, quart of activator and gallon of reducer for @ $120.00 at most places that sell DuPont. It is their Factory Packs, only about 20 colors. DuPont owns Nason and their quality has come up. Don't get me wrong, still cheap paint. But you get what you pay for. A job I'm doing now for a customer, I've got $2000 just in paint materials.

03-18-2008, 08:16 AM	#5
bufmatmuslepants Junior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 313	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions appreciate the responses guys. i would like to do a real spray job with a spray gun but i dont have a air compressor here at school. i dont have alot of tools with me and dont know anybody with a compressor. unless i can come up with a compressor, im going to have to go with the rattle can. __________________ 1979 K10 reg cab short bed 33x12.50s - GONE 1988 4x4 reg cab long bed 337k miles - GONE 1995 Z71 GU6 G80 F44 ext cab short bed 149k 305/70/16s - GONE 1995 NZZ GT4 2dr Tahoe 3" lift 14 bolt sf 155k 305/70/16s - GONE 1994 Z28 M6 1995 Z71 GT4 G80 ext cab short bed 215k GONE 1997 GT4 G80 Yukon 4 door leather, sunroof 168k miles GONE 2003 Avalanche Z71 GT4 G80 165k miles

03-18-2008, 08:36 AM	#6
killthewabbit Spear and magic helmet! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,226	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions I'm in the middle of a test hood using rustoleum and rollers. I heard of some people even using Wagner power painters and the like. Seems like it would go faster than rollers and be more even than rattle cans, but I never really saw anyone posting up results. I would imagine the Duplicolor paints would work pretty good. After rattle canning the bottom of my test hood in my single car garage, I would recommend doing the roller stuff if you have to do it outside in the apartment complex parking lot. There's just too much overspray when you're spraying. People who park anywhere near you will be ready to kill you after you ruin their cars with your overspray. One of the good things about the roller method is that you can do a coat whenever you feel like, instead of worrying about flash times, etc. If you roll a coat on and don't have the opportunity to do another one for a week or so, it's no big deal. I say wait for the weather to look like it's going to be clear for a day and roll away. disclaimer - there are a lot of people who have insanely passionate opinions both for an against this. I personally like the price, the challenge of doing it myself, and the impossibility of making my truck look worse than it already does. Even still, I'm doing a practice hood first to get my technique down. Just be prepared to hear the onslaught from people for and against this. Last edited by killthewabbit; 03-18-2008 at 08:37 AM. Reason: forgot to mention that other apt residents will get homocidal*

03-18-2008, 04:39 PM	#7
Blackstone Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Central Maine Posts: 210	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions I dabbled with the roller process last summer using "Top Secret Coatings" TS-4 urethane-reinforced enamel (they had the best color options). Results on my test panels were impressive. When spring comes I plan to experiment with the Wagner. The process works, you just need lots of patience and the ambition to read the 200+ pages of the legendary Moparts "paint job on a budget" thread. I recommend reading the following, then using the roller method with either Rustoleum or Brightside marine paint... The Moparts board offers the most support for these brands. Here's one of my rolled test pieces(before polishing): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...z/100_2454.jpg Moparts discussion board, thread I: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1 Moparts discussion board, thread II: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1 Moparts discussion board, thread III: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1 Enjoy! Last edited by Blackstone; 03-18-2008 at 04:39 PM.

03-19-2008, 06:32 AM	#8
vintagesteel Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: higginsville, mo Posts: 1,601	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions I would have a serious problem with spraying a solvent based paint through a sprayer that has an electric motor.JMO. It's hard for me to understand people spending tons of money on wheels, motor work, suspension, then $50 on a paint job. Why don't you prep it, take all the trim off you dont want painted and get a $250 paint job from Maaco? Alot easier to deal with later when you CAN afford a decent paint job. Try sanding rattle can paint off when you want a good paint job. Job will cost you 3 times as much because now you have a PO'ed painter.

03-19-2008, 11:36 PM	#10
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions ya know years ago i had a guy who had an accident and we bought a door for him out of a junkyard. we took this door into the basement and set it up on horses and we carefully wet sanded it smooth and then spray bombed it with primer then we bought about six of the duplicolor spray cans and very carefully sprayed the door that way the color of his car and it came out good.. almost looked like a real paint job.. now my moms basement is like hotter than hadies but it came out nice and it lasted at least three or four years until he got rid of the car.. he did also wash and wax the car too so it held up for that... dunno if that helps ya __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

03-18-2008, 03:48 AM	#1
bufmatmuslepants Junior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 313	DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions over the past few weeks ive been wet sanding and prepping my truck for a cheapo paint job and i have a few questions as i get closer to time to paint. ive been using an abrasive pad from advanceauto on a semislow speed drill to take off the surface rust and peeling paint, and a rubber sanding block with 320 grit to wetsand, using a carwash sponge to apply the water keeping the surface wet. duplicolor rattle can high-build primer is the primer being used. what grit sand paper should be used to rough up the surface for final paint? through my sanding, ive noticed the truck has about 4 coats of paint on it. i was thinking of just sanding the truck down to the stock coat of paint, because ive heard it is fine to paint over the factory paint. should i just take all the paint off and prime the whole truck, or is the factory coat a good base? does anyone have any recommendations for the brand of spray paint to use? once the paint is laid down, what grit paper should be used in final wetsanding to get the surface ready for clearcoat? is there a spray can of clearcoat which would give a decent finish? if so, what grit paper should be used on the paint to prep for clearcoat? what are the final steps that need to be done to get a nice finish on the clearcoat? (grit sandpaper for each step, and final buffing) my father wants me to do all the prep work then turn the truck over to someone else such as maaco or a local body shop to lay down the paint. how much would this typically cost if ive done all of the prep work? ive thought about doing the roll on paint idea, but it takes so long to dry and im doing this whole project outside, im afraid dust will get into the paint before it can dry. im leaning towards blue because gloss black shows too many imperfections and waves. if anyone has any tips or tricks or ideas please feel free to post them, ive never attempted to do this before and want to get a decent paint job for cheap that can be done in the gravel parkinglot of my apartment. thanks __________________ 1979 K10 reg cab short bed 33x12.50s - GONE 1988 4x4 reg cab long bed 337k miles - GONE 1995 Z71 GU6 G80 F44 ext cab short bed 149k 305/70/16s - GONE 1995 NZZ GT4 2dr Tahoe 3" lift 14 bolt sf 155k 305/70/16s - GONE 1994 Z28 M6 1995 Z71 GT4 G80 ext cab short bed 215k GONE 1997 GT4 G80 Yukon 4 door leather, sunroof 168k miles GONE 2003 Avalanche Z71 GT4 G80 165k miles

03-18-2008, 04:03 AM	#2
JAKES 68GMC Aluminum slot wheels rule... Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Maine Posts: 6,211	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions I dont know if I'd use spray paint. Some rustoleum and a cheap paint sprayer may be a better choice in the long run. Last edited by JAKES 68GMC; 03-18-2008 at 04:04 AM.

03-18-2008, 04:17 AM	#3
Pyrotechnic Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 3,930	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions Yes, get a cheap paint gun and some single stage automotive paint. Practice a little on something besides the truck, watch some videos, read instructions, and get comfortable with the gun. I know it's a little more work, but it will definitely come out better than rattle cans. A cheap paint gun and some cheap paint is way better than rattle cans.

03-18-2008, 04:26 AM	#4
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions The question, here is WHAT DO YOU want it to look like when you are done. You know there have been several articles in the Super Chevy Magazine, Hot Rod Magazine and Sport Truck Magazine on just what you are doing. They cover a lot of the basics on doing a paint job. Having done a few Back of the garge type paint jobs, I would do some things like #1 get the body completely sanded with a 320 grit wet and dry paper or scuffed with a 3M paint prep pad. #2 If you have body work to do, get it done and then block sand the whole area to get it as smooth as possible. #3 Use a cheap black paint ot mist over the primer to allow you to see the ripples in you putty work. #4 If you have rust holes or damage DO NOT pile on the body putty, repair the body with a patch panel or fiberglass and then smooth it with a thin film of putty. A D&A sander will give you fast sanding finishes, but tends to leave circular scratches that show up in the finish paint work. You can paint almost anywhere, with a gun, but you have to control the damn bugs when you do. They tend to get into the finish coat, at the most inopportune time. I personally like a base coat/clear coat finish myself, but there are primo single stage paints on the market.

03-20-2008, 05:35 AM	#12
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions actually the one time i had a car painted in maaco what i did was find out who was painting it and then i told em look i want it to come out decent and handed him $20 and told him there was two more of them for him if it came out looking extra nice.. the guy did a wonderful job on the car .. ive seen some people get their car painted there and it looked like the sprayer and masker were both visually impaired __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

03-20-2008, 08:46 AM	#14
AlaskaChevy1 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anchorage,Alaska Posts: 14	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions Hey- my 2cents- Go with a maaco/schieb type deal.-You will have a considerable expense buying enough materials to DIY, use that money towards maaco, put all your time into prep work,(look online for past articles from Car Craft on how to get the best paintjob from maaco) basically details a total tear-down of exterior, nameplates, trim, wipers, doorhandles, drip rails, ect... also you may want to remove the locking bead in the front/rear window gasket so it will be loose enuff to mask easy. massive cleaning with wax/grease remover. scrub w/ wet scuff pad and prep paste all places you want your paint to stick! power washing all the cracks and corners. I would go to a autobody supply store for all that stuff. and see if they have an affordable quality primer. I've heard there is some roll-on primer that has a heardener- you roll-on, let cure, and sand smooth. I think rattle can products never really dry 100%, and if you paint over them it will soak-up under your new paint and show feather rings. you could probably sand and polish the macco paint for an even better result. If you really want to try the roller/rustoleum deal Car Craft recently had an article on that as well, I think they did a little Falcon, detailing all the steps. Good Luck! and let us know what you decide/ results. __________________ 1976 SWB 350/350 2WD Last edited by AlaskaChevy1; 03-20-2008 at 09:12 AM.

03-20-2008, 04:04 PM	#15
vintagesteel Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: higginsville, mo Posts: 1,601	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions I used to paint for Maaco in 97. I needed a job. $20 is what we got per car to paint. The preper and masker got the same. Painted 30 cars a week.Pretty good money for what I did. Wiped the car down and sprayed. Worked there for 6 months. Painted @720 cars. I used it as experience. So $60 is the same as painting 3 more cars that day. I guaranty the painter appreciated it. Besides $250 paint job, take out materials, and pay 3 people to work on it, it still don't add up. Not much profit in a paint job for them. Its conning people in upgrading is where they make their money. Just stick with the basic job. Might even be cheaper prepping your self. Don't remember their policy. As far as polishing, I would be careful. I put more then enough paint on because I polish everything I do. Some painters put on just enough to cover. You can polish a single stage metallic but you will silver it abit. The metallic is silver and when you sand it you will cut the color off of it. Just slightly changes the color

03-20-2008, 05:27 PM	#17
vintagesteel Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: higginsville, mo Posts: 1,601	Re: DIY paint job using SPRAY PAINT, few questions Don't remember. I don't think i had anyone do that. It's a franchise like Sonic. We done things a little different than some of the others. The one I worked at shot Western, Nason Urethane, and Sherwin Williams base/clear. There is a reason normal body shops don't shoot cheap paint. You can buy a gallon of nason color, quart of activator and gallon of reducer for @ $120.00 at most places that sell DuPont. It is their Factory Packs, only about 20 colors. DuPont owns Nason and their quality has come up. Don't get me wrong, still cheap paint. But you get what you pay for. A job I'm doing now for a customer, I've got $2000 just in paint materials.



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