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[Slammed70]

Im doing the vavles on my hyd. flat tappet truck. I set the lash, I twist the pushrod between my fingers until I feel a slight tention. Thats zero lash, then I go another 1/4 to a 1/2 turn after that to preload the pintle depth on the lifter.

Well, my question is after I do that. Should the pushrod still be able to turn or should it be tight? Because they still feel lose to me...and the rocker still has some play aswell. More than I feel it should.

[Billla]

The short answer is no. If you're going through and adjusting valves and then going back and finding them loose, then your adjustment process is not correct in terms of positioning the engine for each adjustement.

I use the companion cylinder method and it's worked for me for quite a while. Easier, faster and significantly less error-prone than the factory approach. I say this with caution, as I believe in doing it "the factory way" - but I've been converted. Somebody's sure to pop up and say how wrong I am, so you'll have to make your own evaluation

BTW, 1/2 turn or whatever the cam manufacturer recommends. No more, no less for a street engine.

Confirming that this is for a GEN I SBC, correct?

I have a PDF, but it's too big - here's the basics:

• Engine should be warm.
• Zero lash is the very lightest drag on the pushrod - almost everyone does this way too tight!
• Take your time, confirm each cylinder. Best to have someone read it to you.

• FIND AND VERIFY #1 TDC Compression. It all breaks if you don't do this correctly.
• At #1 TDC Compression:
• Adjust EXHAUST 1, 3, 4, 8
• Adjust INTAKE 1,2,5,7
• FIND AND VERIFY #6 TDC Compression. It all breaks if you don't do this correctly.
• At #6 TDC Compression:
• Adjust EXHAUST 2, 5, 6, 7
• Adjust INTAKE 3, 4, 6, 8