Need help on 49 Chevy straight 6

[The Big Green]

The engine is original and I would love a 350 in it but can't part with the matching number engine and tranny. I want to keep it bone stock with the original engine. The engine wasn't locked up but because of the 4 vent holes in the stock valve cover things got in over the past 30 years, there are spider webbs under the valve cover. I want to rebuild this, it sit 30 years ago because of a bad starter, and now needs rebuilt,with new gas tank(rusted thru),starter, carb, and the distributers cap is off. I can't find a place to buy anything for this engine, internal of ex. I don't see a reason to change up a truck that may have been gutless back in the day but indeed built alot better...stronger. Wait and see an 08 in 60 years...lol. I need a good place to buy these parts, not sure about the local autozone...lol. I bet this engine would start if the wiring wasn't so crispy. As for the wiring harness, I found all of it for like $350 maybe, if I'm right and it included extra wiring for turn signals, it was the original wiring so everthing would be put back like it was new.

[2manyprojects]

Try www.chevsofthe40s.com They seem to have a lot of engine and original type parts.

[The Big Green]

I looked on that website and I think they just may have everything I'll need, but couldn't find the starter. Thanks for the help. Do you happen to know anything about the 3 speeds on the column? The clutch is on the floor and it wasn't when it was parked, I think the tranny was good, well 30 years ago it was. I can't seem to move the shifter on the column either...its stuck. Thanks again for the website.

[2manyprojects]

Cool, glad I could help. The linkages are probably just frozen. Try drowning it in penetrating oil and let it sit for a few days to a week. See if you can work everything back and forth until it frees up.

[Daniel U]

The stovebolt site should be a good place to start if you're going to keep it OEM. There are plenty of things to do and bolt ons to gain hp too. I'd suggest going to a 12v system if you plan on re-wiring it anyway. Then you can get a newer starter and ditch the generator for an alternator. You may have to replace the lights for a 12 volt system. Good luck!

[The Big Green]

I'll try to soak the clutch in something and see if it works, didn't think of that but it wouldn't hurt.

I have a LMC Truck Mag and I have seen the lights for a 12v system, but as far as wiring would I need to go Painless?, They are kinda high and some have said they don't like rewiring. As far as the starter, I really don't like the little button type, but if you get 1 that isn't then you need a different igintion. I don't mind changing everything over to a 12v because its better, but I wish I knew if the engine was worth it before I did.

Thanks guys, oh and I've been on Stovebolt, very helpful site, so is this one. Like I said I really want to do this right and going 12v is a very good idea, I just want to keep it as original as I can.

[drummin89]

these are all places that sell engine parts, the first link has rebuild kits from basic - 940, to master - 1420, to deluxe - 1680. rebuild kits are about 1/2 way down the page.
http://www.kanter.com/p18-chn.html
http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/chevyparts.htm
http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/47_55/t1.asp?page=95
http://www.classicparts.com/products.asp?dept=69

as far as wiring
http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html
http://www.ronfrancis.com/wiringharness.htm
http://www.americanautowire.com/
http://www.americanautowire.com/cata...CHEVYTRUCK.pdf

its hit or miss as far as parts from local auto parts stores. ive found some parts for my 54 235 at my local autozone and advance, but as with most stuff either carry, they have to order it.

[The Big Green]

Thanks for all the websites, I appreciate the help. I've never went through such and old engine before. I have just built sb and bb chevys and the old parts are indeed higher but if it means keeping the older original engine I'll do it, besides I would like to build the 6er just to do something different. It may be slow but with gas prices who knows, it may be better...lol. I know that most of the time you get better having a engine that don't struggle but this 49 isn't as heavy as I had thought it would be. As far as the rebuild kit, I probably only need the basic and maybe a cam, its more than likely rusty. I have dial-up so I only have time for the Kanter site now...lol...its kinda slow.


I may not need this for a couple months but with these rebuild parts would I get anything on a tourqe number for all the engine parts? Also I have a buddy at an Advanced Auto Parts store and you said you have found some parts at auto stores, if anything can be bought there I can get good discounts...

[drummin89]

well looking on advance auto parts site for parts for your year truck, looks like they can get most parts for you engine, from camshalfs to main and rod bearing to most gaskets. You can probably get most of the parts you will need from them, its just that they will have to special order (mostly) everything you are looking for. Ive used them for gaskets and other smaller items with good luck on them being able to get it for me.

[The Big Green]

Cool, I have a buddy that can get me his 10% discount at the store he works at. I will probably need around a $1000 in parts and thats a $100 off, and every little bit helps...lol. I really don't like cheating the system but I leave for the Fire Academy here in about 2 months and will be gone for 4 months and he will buy my parts. I have 2 months to get in shape before I go...lol, you have to be able to run with 100lbs of gear and I can't run without it. Thanks for the help, like I said, I wanted to know if I can get the parts here in town because I'm going stock anyways, but maybe a set of headers for any amount of sound this 6er may have hidden in there somewhere, so that helped alot in knowing I can get them local. I decided to strip the frame and powdercoat and shave and paint the firewall also, since the engines out and will be clean, may as well clean the rest. I hate to rebuild and install a good clean engine in a dirty truck. My dad works at his buddies shop andhe has a parts cleaning machine and said I can use it anytime. I can use it to clean my engine and heads, and he has a sandblasting machine for small parts like hinges, maybe arms off the frame, but I don't know. I know a place that will sandblast and powdercoat a stripped down frame, rearend and all for $400. I know a buddy that his dad owns a driveshaft shop and has some new lifts that I can use and a cleaner that can clean my frame, but I rather pay $400 and have it done better. Its good to know people that can get you deals in a world where gas is high, plus they know that incase of an emergency I'll be there, like maybe a fire.


Thanks again. I'll drop by the advanced in a couple days and get some prices on the parts that I know I need now, like the starter and alternator, and a valve cover that doesn't have 4 slots for breathing that after 25 years can allow things to build inside...lol, dang bugs, spiders I know for sure because their webs are inside.

[Fred T]

I will add a couple of things.

On the 216 engine the rod bearings use poured babbit. This is the reason you don't see too many of the 216s still in use. Continued lugging at low rpm or driving at high rpm will deform the babbit, causing excessive rod play. Most of the 216s didn't make it to 75,000 miles.

The solution is to have your rods reconditioned and machined for steel-lined insert bearings. They still use babbit, but it is much thinner and doesn't get deformed as easily. If you can't find a machine shop locally that can do it, go to the stovebolt site and look up Hotrod Lincoln. He has offered to machine rods for people in the past.

I haven't checked prices lately, but Patrick's used to sell engine rebuild parts cheaper than I could buy locally with a discount. And he is a good egg, won't try to shaft you. And has a lot of good advice.

On the starter, I can still get a rebuild at my local auto parts store. Other options are to rebuild it yourself, it probably only needs new brushes, a few bucks at the parts store. You should also be able to find somewhere locally to rebuild it, too.

As for converting to 12 volt you don't have to. Simply adjust the voltage regulator to a litttle higher voltage, 7.5 volts. Your bulbs will burn brighter, but won't last quite as long. The starter will also turn over faster.

For a wiring harness, go with one from one of the vendors that's a reproduction, since you are wanting to stay stock. Painless makes a good product, but putting in a stock harness is a lot easier. Go with the vinyl coated wire, not the older style cloth.

Gaskets for the engine, tranny and differential are still made by Fel-pro. You should be able to buy them locally, if you can find a parts store that will look them up in a paper catalog. If not, the vendors have them.

As for vendors, I will tell you that I will not do business with LMC. There are many others out there that have people who know what they are selling, and have actually used the parts. LMC does not offer that service. Either go to the vendor links here or at Stovebolt, there are more vendors listed than Carter has pills.

[Fred T]

One more piece of advice. If you don't have one, get a copy of the factory shop manual. It has step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild the engine, starter, generator, tranny and everything else. I consider it an investment in a tool for the toolbox.

[The Big Green]

So the engine should be ok with newer style rod bearings? LOL, most 350's don't make it past 75 grand, I have never had a correct working odometer or was younger with to much 8 grand revs..lol. I have a engine now that I believe has around that and is 6 years old and I tore it down and I'm putting new bearing and rings and calling it good because there's no ring groove. I haven't thrown out the idea of a good 350 yet but I would just like to see the original engine stay in it. I guess because its there and it matches the truck plus I thought it would be easier, but if I decide to or if its better, cheaper or easier I can install a 350 and 400t in this truck, I know I'll like it better...lol. I'll look into a shop manual and will give the vendors a chance when I start getting parts. Thanks for you help.