How to prime a power steering system

[skokie]

I have changed out my worn out power steering gear for a new variable rate redhead. The question is how do I prime it? Do i just fill up the power steering pump and start turning the wheel or is there more to it than that?

Thanks

[Zeke]

I have always poured steering fluid into the lines to get as much as I can into the gearbox then connected them to the pump, filled pump and with the wheels off the ground and engine running slowly turned the wheel stop to stop, check fluid level fill and continue untill I don't have to add anymore. This makes sure all the air is out of the system. Air in the system is worse for the pump that the gearbox.

[krue]

I just fill the pump and turn stop to stop with it on the ground.

[Longhorn Man]

when we were doing the frito lay rebuilds at work, the P/30 trucks always got a new steering gear box and pump, and seperage resivour. We tried a few ways, but this is what worked best.
Fill the system up as soon as it was sealed up. With the engine off, and the front end up and secure on jack stands, turn the wheels from lock to lock a few times, then refill the system. Do this 2 or 3 times, untill the level stays pretty much full.
With the front end still up in the air, fire the engine, let it idle for amin or two, then turn lock to lock slowly, pausing for just a second against the lock. Center the wheel, shut the engine off, and come back in 10 min to check the fluid. if drasticly low, top off and fire it again and turn back and forth.
once it looks good and isn't groaning, set it down and go around the block, check it one last time, top it off and call it good.

[68K20 x Drill]

Good advice
Longhorn man, maybe you can answer a Frito Lay question for me...
my friend has one, a 79 with 4BT engine. It has a PS pump for the Hydroboost brakes but a manual steering box. What is up with that

[Longhorn Man]

Hmmm, never heard of a truck with the hydro boost but without power steering.
You could add power steering easy enough.
In all reality, that truck was probably a gas powered truck originally, and had power brakes, but not steering.
Once converted, there was no vacume to run the brakes, so they installed the power steering pump to run the hydro-boost system.

[skokie]

Ok I gave this a shot and now I have power steering fluid oozing out of the cap. I started to open it and it reminded me of a radiator on hot day so I said uuuhhh I dont want to wear power steering fluid so I stopped. Did I now let the truck run long enough? I let it run for 1-3 minutes. Do I need to go longer? Also it is groaning when I turn the wheel.

[skokie]

I started it back up and it stopped spitting up fluid. I let it run for 2-3 mins and shut it down. I did not turn the wheel or anything. I opened the top and I see a ton of bubbles. What next

[skokie]

Ok it seems to be doing better. Just taking a while. Its now groaning just a little bit. I shut down the motor and checked it and it was way low. I topped it off and I am now letting it set for 10 mins.

[Thealien]

raise the front wheels off the ground. With the engine off slowly turn the wheels lock to lock about ten time. Check fluid fill as needed. Repeat until it doesn't take any more fluid. start it up and turn lock to lock a couple of times, shut off and check fluid for level and bubbles. If fluid has bubbles/foam repeat the earlier steps.

Good luck

[skokie]

Yep did all that and all is well now. No more noises and turns on a dime..

[bguild]

I know this thread is old but thought I would ask this here. I have a leak in the power steering pump.. Its coming from the bolt where the line goes into the power steering component. Not the Pump on the block but the other part. Its the line closest to the radiator It seems to be leaking from the bolt where it threads in.. I want to do the cheapest fix and i did try to tighten it.. It moved a little but I think it might still be leaking.. Is there like thread tape I can put on these lines and then refill the pump? Its extremely low anyway from having the leak.. The great thing is I just got this truck and the fluid has leaked all over the control arms so it should be fun cleaning that all up.. Its nasty..

[72gmcworker]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

when we were doing the frito lay rebuilds at work, the P/30 trucks always got a new steering gear box and pump, and seperage resivour. We tried a few ways, but this is what worked best.
Fill the system up as soon as it was sealed up. With the engine off, and the front end up and secure on jack stands, turn the wheels from lock to lock a few times, then refill the system. Do this 2 or 3 times, untill the level stays pretty much full.
With the front end still up in the air, fire the engine, let it idle for amin or two, then turn lock to lock slowly, pausing for just a second against the lock. Center the wheel, shut the engine off, and come back in 10 min to check the fluid. if drasticly low, top off and fire it again and turn back and forth.
once it looks good and isn't groaning, set it down and go around the block, check it one last time, top it off and call it good.

Just replaced the box and pump today on my '72 2500 and without reading this first I followed Andy's method.....seal it up, add fluid, with engine off turn wheel lock to lock, add more fluid, do lock to lock, when it takes no more fluid start it up and all is good.

Works like a charm

[72gmcworker]

Originally Posted by bguild

I know this thread is old but thought I would ask this here. I have a leak in the power steering pump.. Its coming from the bolt where the line goes into the power steering component. Not the Pump on the block but the other part. Its the line closest to the radiator It seems to be leaking from the bolt where it threads in.. I want to do the cheapest fix and i did try to tighten it.. It moved a little but I think it might still be leaking.. Is there like thread tape I can put on these lines and then refill the pump? Its extremely low anyway from having the leak.. The great thing is I just got this truck and the fluid has leaked all over the control arms so it should be fun cleaning that all up.. Its nasty..

While I'm here

Try teflon tape or pipe dope on threads....if it is the pressure line....mine threads onto a fitting that threads into the pump...do both ends of the fitting if yours is same.

[truckdude239]

never use teflont ape on a hose that has a flare fitting it will just make it leak

[bguild]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

never use teflont ape on a hose that has a flare fitting it will just make it leak

so with that in mind if mine is leaking and the factory is a flare fitting (unsure cause I havent taken mine out) Then what do you recommend??? Do I use pipe dope or just replace the lines with new? The lines look good but the seals just leak.. I can try to crank it down more but I dont want to strip anything out.. I dont have alot of experience with this stuff and I know alot of you guys here on the board do so anything would help.. Thanks in advance.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by 72gmcworker

Just replaced the box and pump today on my '72 2500 and without reading this first I followed Andy's method.....seal it up, add fluid, with engine off turn wheel lock to lock, add more fluid, do lock to lock, when it takes no more fluid start it up and all is good.

Works like a charm

Sweet. Like I said, we tried a few ways, and that worked best.

[72gmcworker]

Originally Posted by bguild

so with that in mind if mine is leaking and the factory is a flare fitting (unsure cause I havent taken mine out) Then what do you recommend??? Do I use pipe dope or just replace the lines with new? The lines look good but the seals just leak.. I can try to crank it down more but I dont want to strip anything out.. I dont have alot of experience with this stuff and I know alot of you guys here on the board do so anything would help.. Thanks in advance.

My 2 cents
You got nothing to lose...
you got a leak you want it stopped
So
take it apart and check condition of pieces...flare, nut, (check and pull the threaded insert into pump) steel line parts (is nut turning free on steel line) plus rubber hose, return line hose for hardness/rot and connection/clamp.
replace if condition iffy....saves a blown hose or so on the road.
if okay dope it and crank it all tight...if still leaks replace it all and be done...then your good for another 30-40 years
I had some leaks and now it is all new...pump hoses and box.....done for another 30+/- years
Teflon tape or such should not come into play on a flare connection as the flare is the seal ...not the threads
but if you got nothing to lose...heck you never know...dope it.

[bguild]

Originally Posted by 72gmcworker

My 2 cents
You got nothing to lose...
you got a leak you want it stopped
So
take it apart and check condition of pieces...flare, nut, (check and pull the threaded insert into pump) steel line parts (is nut turning free on steel line) plus rubber hose, return line hose for hardness/rot and connection/clamp.
replace if condition iffy....saves a blown hose or so on the road.
if okay dope it and crank it all tight...if still leaks replace it all and be done...then your good for another 30-40 years
I had some leaks and now it is all new...pump hoses and box.....done for another 30+/- years
Teflon tape or such should not come into play on a flare connection as the flare is the seal ...not the threads
but if you got nothing to lose...heck you never know...dope it.

Thanks for the advice.. when i get from Chicago next week I will start ripping into it.... I hope it goes the cheap way cause I have alot of other stuff I want to buy for this truck. (-;