steering shaft questions

[Sport/Truck]

While removing my shaft to pull the column out I decided to shorten it.
Here are some observations I’d like some clarification on.
The shaft that gets shortened is designed to collapse in the event of a collision. Would it be a good idea to cut off the same amount you plan to shorten it? I’m thinking I will try to pull them apart and give it a try. Is it necessary to pin it back after it’s installed?
And my final question…. Can the rubber boot on the end be dissembled and cleaned reattached after powder coat? It looks like it will be simple to remove, I’m just not sure what to expect on the inside.
s/t

[Green Machine]

Not sure about taking the shaft apart, but yes you can take the clip and rubber boot off and clean and regrease the joint. Not much in there except 2 rollers and they stay attached to the shaft. Make sure you mark the shaft and the housing so you get it put together the same way, else you could be 180 off when you try to line up the mark on the steering wheel (don't ask how I know that - LOL).

[Longhorn Man]

i just learned the chop off the end trick myself... and yes, it is a very good idea (assuming you installed a van tilt?)
No need to install the nylin plugs/rivits. If it is installed, there is no way for it to expand or contract since it's bolted on at both ends.

[dan42]

All you've done is collapsed it before an accident - it's still gonna collapse a little bit in the case of a head on, but I'm not too sure what cutting off the "excess" would buy you besides the illusion of piece of mind. The steering wheel will stop it collapsing much further (in case of an accident) so cutting it off doesn't seem to make much sense to me. My dos pesos.

[Longhorn Man]

if a van tilt goes in, or if you slide the stock column down for more belly room, then you have to collapse it, which takes up collapsing room.
If the Intermediate shaft will collapse 6 inches before shooting the steering wheel up at your skull, and you collapse it 4 inches, then after 2 inched of collision that sucker will be making a bee line towards your nose.

[Sport/Truck]

it's the stock column for now. I'm gland I'm not the only one to see this safety feature that going overlooked. I take it the van tilts are longer? I may trade out my unit for a van's tilt but not sure what the best model is to get it from.

But back to the intermediate shaft - do you see a problem removing the rubber boot and cleaning out the grease, then baking it at 400 deg. for ~30min while it's powder coated?
s/t

[70GMCer]

The way I look at it, is that if you get into a head on collision, you're going to have more things to worry about besides how far your steering wheel collapsed. They are not air bags and going that kind of speed to collapsed one will not make a difference. How about your legs, knee caps, going thru the windshield, etc. Again, jmo

[Longhorn Man]

if your legs and knees go through the windshield, then your ass needs to be seated with the seat belt on when the truck is moving.
You'd be amazed at how small a fender bender will kerfagle the front of the frames on these. and at the amount of damage that can be done, and you walk away with nothing more than a bruised belly and a bloody shin.
While I have no photos of the int... the steering wheel DID in fact pop up and come towards my noggin. Had I not been pushed towards the center of the truck upon impact, I woulda broke my nose on the rim of the steering wheel.
I was doing 5 or so MPH, she was doing 70 or so in a MAZDA.
point of impact

from the roof of the cab looking down... notice the hole in the center of the crossmember, then look at the coresupport.



This was my first truck... '70 CST/20 Longhorn.