sevill rear disc conversion how to - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Beyond · 09-21-2002, 08:01 AM

Thanks for the tips on retracting the piston and the parking brake cables.

The 9" setup that I'm building for a street/strip car uses a combination of low buck circle track parts. Lightweight IMCA spun steel hats with Wilwood .81 ultralight rotors and Southwest speed weld on mounts. The hats fit three different bolt circle combos 4.5", 4.75" & 5". If I had to do it over again, I'd probably go with the OEM Trans Am rotors.

I'm probably not saving but about 2-5lbs of rotating weight with the racing rotors. The problem I ran into is the Caddy calipers are made for rotors that are 1" thick, and Wilwood and others don't make 1" thick 8 bolt rotors. I finally had to make me some .200" pad spacers to get these rotors to work. Haven't tested this stuff out yet, I just finished welding the caliper mounts last night. Should know in about a week how it will work.

John

dmec · 09-21-2002, 11:50 AM

ive seen the parts you are using in catalogs for stock car parts. i am thinking more in the line of adapting stock cad parts to ford rear.

Beyond · 09-22-2002, 04:03 PM

Wouldn't be much different than what you're doing on the chevy rear except for the axle flange mount. Stock car brackets are only about $15, in my opinion a lot easier to just weld those on then make a lot of modifications to the caddy mounts. You don't like the weld on mounts?

ebfabman · 09-22-2002, 04:43 PM

I've done it several ways also, and I think the weld on brackets are the only way to go. They also are a lot less unsprung wieght.

Dandeluxe · 09-23-2002, 04:47 PM

this is what makes this truck board the best . excellent post my hat is off to ya . a few ? though.
is there a way to do this with a 6 lug disc?
and is there ever any problems with a metering valve ? ive heard this can be a ***** to get it adjusted just right in order to keep your rear brakes from locking up before your front disc get a chance to work? ive heard its hard to get the proportioning valve tweaked just right. is this true? also is there a more heavy duty style caliper and rotor? thanks, for all the info!!!! , DAN

Dandeluxe · 09-23-2002, 08:44 PM

TTT BACK TO THE TOP

crazy4chevs · 01-27-2003, 11:51 PM

Very usefull thought I would bring it back up for others I have saw alot of ? on this lately.

09-23-2002, 04:47 PM	#30
Dandeluxe Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: st.louis mo. Posts: 717	excellent post!!!!!!!!!! this is what makes this truck board the best . excellent post my hat is off to ya . a few ? though. is there a way to do this with a 6 lug disc? and is there ever any problems with a metering valve ? ive heard this can be a ***** to get it adjusted just right in order to keep your rear brakes from locking up before your front disc get a chance to work? ive heard its hard to get the proportioning valve tweaked just right. is this true? also is there a more heavy duty style caliper and rotor? thanks, for all the info!!!! , DAN Attached Images __________________ 1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C . ["]FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DRIVE F@RD$!! 1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc I started out with nothing and i held on to it

09-23-2002, 08:44 PM	#31
Dandeluxe Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: st.louis mo. Posts: 717	EXCELLENT POST TTT BACK TO THE TOP __________________ 1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C . ["]FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DRIVE F@RD$!! 1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc I started out with nothing and i held on to it

01-27-2003, 11:51 PM	#32
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	Very usefull thought I would bring it back up for others I have saw alot of ? on this lately. __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .

09-21-2002, 08:01 AM	#26
Beyond Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: La Harpe, KS Posts: 68	Thanks for the tips on retracting the piston and the parking brake cables. The 9" setup that I'm building for a street/strip car uses a combination of low buck circle track parts. Lightweight IMCA spun steel hats with Wilwood .81 ultralight rotors and Southwest speed weld on mounts. The hats fit three different bolt circle combos 4.5", 4.75" & 5". If I had to do it over again, I'd probably go with the OEM Trans Am rotors. I'm probably not saving but about 2-5lbs of rotating weight with the racing rotors. The problem I ran into is the Caddy calipers are made for rotors that are 1" thick, and Wilwood and others don't make 1" thick 8 bolt rotors. I finally had to make me some .200" pad spacers to get these rotors to work. Haven't tested this stuff out yet, I just finished welding the caliper mounts last night. Should know in about a week how it will work. John

09-21-2002, 11:50 AM	#27
dmec Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: yucaipa ca Posts: 580	ive seen the parts you are using in catalogs for stock car parts. i am thinking more in the line of adapting stock cad parts to ford rear.

09-22-2002, 04:03 PM	#28
Beyond Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: La Harpe, KS Posts: 68	Wouldn't be much different than what you're doing on the chevy rear except for the axle flange mount. Stock car brackets are only about $15, in my opinion a lot easier to just weld those on then make a lot of modifications to the caddy mounts. You don't like the weld on mounts?

09-22-2002, 04:43 PM	#29
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	I've done it several ways also, and I think the weld on brackets are the only way to go. They also are a lot less unsprung wieght.



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