Anyone replace Pitman? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72K10 · 01-27-2003, 11:13 PM

I replaced the draglink on my 72 4x4, but it seems loose where it connects to the pitman arm. Is this normal? Has anyone replaced the pitman arm and gotten tighter linkage? My NAPA guy thinks that since the pitman arm is a non-wear item, it should be OK, but it's the only place in my steering where there's play. Any other 4x4's have this and got it fixed? Thanks

jabarlow · 01-27-2003, 11:18 PM

just wondering if you torked the nut down to specs otherwise the hole would have to be worn from something being loose on the pitman arm to draglink connection

crazy4chevs · 01-27-2003, 11:40 PM

Yes, that is supposed to be a non wear item and should be replaced.

minibike · 01-28-2003, 12:29 AM

I put a new one on my truck...not sure about it not being a non-wear item.

**1971Stepside** · 01-28-2003, 12:15 PM

I would put a new pitman arm on it. Mine was shot. You will need a puller to get the old one off.

Andy4639 · 01-28-2003, 01:28 PM

Yes replace it. It shouldn't have any play in it. I replaced mine when I replaced the idler arm also made a hugh difference.

**COBALT** · 01-28-2003, 03:57 PM

Any time you buy front-end parts that have tapered studs make DAMN sure the taper and tolerance are the same, and tight respectfully. Otherwise you'll end up with excessive wear (the good news), or a broken tapered stud while you're turning a corner (the bad news).

My pitman, idler, and tie rods were loose as hell, and I replaced all of them. The drag link taper was still in good shape, so I reused it. The pitman needs to be torqued to a specification, and it's A LOT. For 3/4 ton trucks the nut had to be torqued to 190 ft-lbs if I remember correctly, but the instructions that come with a new pitman + whatever your Haynes Repair Manual says what it needs to be.

Buy Moog. You won't be sorry.

01-27-2003, 11:13 PM	#1
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	Anyone replace Pitman? I replaced the draglink on my 72 4x4, but it seems loose where it connects to the pitman arm. Is this normal? Has anyone replaced the pitman arm and gotten tighter linkage? My NAPA guy thinks that since the pitman arm is a non-wear item, it should be OK, but it's the only place in my steering where there's play. Any other 4x4's have this and got it fixed? Thanks __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

01-27-2003, 11:18 PM	#2
jabarlow Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: DENVER, CO Posts: 90	just wondering if you torked the nut down to specs otherwise the hole would have to be worn from something being loose on the pitman arm to draglink connection __________________ 72 Chevy K10 Short Stepside 72 gmc K2500

01-27-2003, 11:40 PM	#3
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	Yes, that is supposed to be a non wear item and should be replaced. __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .

01-28-2003, 12:29 AM	#4
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	I put a new one on my truck...not sure about it not being a non-wear item. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

01-28-2003, 12:15 PM	#5
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	I would put a new pitman arm on it. Mine was shot. You will need a puller to get the old one off. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

01-28-2003, 01:28 PM	#6
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	Pitman arm Yes replace it. It shouldn't have any play in it. I replaced mine when I replaced the idler arm also made a hugh difference. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

01-28-2003, 03:57 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Any time you buy front-end parts that have tapered studs make DAMN sure the taper and tolerance are the same, and tight respectfully. Otherwise you'll end up with excessive wear (the good news), or a broken tapered stud while you're turning a corner (the bad news). My pitman, idler, and tie rods were loose as hell, and I replaced all of them. The drag link taper was still in good shape, so I reused it. The pitman needs to be torqued to a specification, and it's A LOT. For 3/4 ton trucks the nut had to be torqued to 190 ft-lbs if I remember correctly, but the instructions that come with a new pitman + whatever your Haynes Repair Manual says what it needs to be. Buy Moog. You won't be sorry. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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