Ok,My Plan...

[special-K]

I`ve decided to part out my`91 Suburban to donate to my`72 K2500.I plan to take the 4" Tuff Country EZ-rides(front & rear) and mount them on the GMC and swap the 4L80E/NP241 in place of the TH350/NP205.The GMC has 3.54:1 gears and I think this will make it a somewhat decent driver.The Dana60 is a posi and the Suburban has 12.50/35 MTRs for until I can get tires for the slots or finned wheels I have on it now.
There`s a few things to take off the Sub,then scrap it.I`m needing to consolidate and realize I can`t build umpteen million trucks like I did back in my college days (never went to college,but did used to whip through some truck builds).
What do ya think?Is my head on straight?
The GMC:





The Suburban:



The Suburban has a blown motor,stand-alone computer,and the front grille,bumper,hood,and l/f fender damaged from accident.I have another motor,bumper brackets,and 4-light core support/grille towards fixing it.Oh,and the l/r quarter panel is crunched and both 1/4s are starting to rust (It doesn`t look as good as the picture).I`ve really liked the Suburban.But,I can find another for not much money not needing all that work.It`s not alot,but,I have alot of other stuff to put my time into.It has sat for nearly two years.

[FormerMember]

Sounds like a solid plan. I have too many projects going as well, so I will be cutting back. I am installing a 4L80E shortly, as well.

BTW, if my C/K conversion is done, and you still have that wrecker, I am coming for it.

[special-K]

I`d say there`s a good chance.It`s not what everyone wants.If I had a more stable situation I`d keep it.It`s not so much about the money (well,somewhat),mostly I just don`t want it sitting around.And I may need to move at some point.I may not have a place for it at my next place.I`d hate to have to unload it quickly.
I thought you said you were cutting back.
The guy I got it from has a Caddy 500 that I wanted to slip in there.He has the conversion mounts and it`s got a performance intake.That`s all I know,maybe a hotter cam.

[Bishops Trucks]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I'm thinking about putting the 4" tuff country lift on my 4X4. Is it a simple job?

[special-K]

Yeah,once you get the old stuff off.My`91 and`72 Highlander fought me on the rear I-bolts.I didn`t have torches at my house and used a cutting wheel on my mini-grinder.These springs will be longer,so better yet on the ride/flex.The truck rides nice now.I don`t expect alot of change there.It`s my more refined truck and I want to travel and tow with it.It`s got the 3 tanks.When I get on the body I plan to work-in sme fuel doors.If it works out that I tear into the body before I get to the body on my short K/30 project I`ll swap cabs so this one will have the cab lights and the shortbed won`t.I really want a low-profile slide-in for this.That has always been the plan.This was to be the replacement for my ochre & white CustomCamper/20 2wd.I may put the saddle interior in it I gathered for the CheyenneSuper I sold last summer.The blue looks great.But that saddle interior with the woodgrain trim,camper,and a color in the Sandtone/Cinnamon spectrum "wood" be sweet.I`d get my buddy to do a woodgrain paint accent on the camper.Who knows.I don`t decide colors until it`s time to buy the paint.

[msgross]

I say leave the GMC stock.... it's a nice survivor....

[special-K]

I know,we`ll see.It can all be changed back.I want to raise it up to a more healthy stance.I figure 4" because I have`80s stock wheels I bought new and powdercoated white.I want to have a set of 285/75s or 255/85s to run on it for a stocker look,when I want.It`s not a real high-optioned truck.But,I do have reservations about getting away from how it`s listed on the SPID.I dunno,it`s got aftermarket tanks,cargo hooks,5th wheel mount...
I`d buy bolt-on springs,but I already have the ones on my Suburban.I doubt I could get what the suspension,tires,and transmission (as well as 6 rustfree doors) are worth out of the `Burb.I`m down to just this 3/4t and money matters alot these days.I can run it alot easier with the hiway gearing from the rears,taller tires,and o/d.It seems practicle at this point,all things considered.Some day I`ll hunt up another high optioned original.$2,500 might as well be $25,000 to me right now.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by special-K

I`d say there`s a good chance.It`s not what everyone wants.If I had a more stable situation I`d keep it.It`s not so much about the money (well,somewhat),mostly I just don`t want it sitting around.And I may need to move at some point.I may not have a place for it at my next place.I`d hate to have to unload it quickly.
I thought you said you were cutting back.
The guy I got it from has a Caddy 500 that I wanted to slip in there.He has the conversion mounts and it`s got a performance intake.That`s all I know,maybe a hotter cam.

I am cutting back on "Projects"

The wrecker's not a project (at least as far as my wife is concerned).

Caddy 500: Watch the rockers, they're the Achilles heel of the Caddy Big Blocks.

[CG]

The ride should be nicer with the longer springs. Do you just move the spring hangers? If so which ones do you move and how much? This is something I wouldnt mind doing to my K20.

Im also curious about the Caddy 500. I have two of em now. Can you mate the Caddy and its turbo 400 up to the trans case?

Take lots of pics, I want to follow what you are doing on this build.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by CG

The ride should be nicer with the longer springs. Do you just move the spring hangers? If so which ones do you move and how much? This is something I wouldnt mind doing to my K20.

Im also curious about the Caddy 500. I have two of em now. Can you mate the Caddy and its turbo 400 up to the trans case?

Take lots of pics, I want to follow what you are doing on this build.

Front springs: I moved the shackle hangers further back, and the front hangers a bit more forward. Basically, I used a kit.

Rear springs: Tim mentioned a shackle flip in another thread, you install the brackets reversed and it allows for a longer spring, with the proper shackle angle.

Caddy (BOP) Th400 has a much longer output shaft. Either install the proper shaft or cut the caddy shaft to length of your adapter. I installed a shaft from a NP203'd Th400 as I went with a 203/205 doubler in mine. The adapters bolt onto the tail of the TH400 with no problems. Caddy trans is also a stronger trans, internally.

Could also run a Chevy case with a BOP adapter, which I will be doing with the 4L80E (to keep this on topic and not a highjack!)

[CG]

Hmmm, hopefully special k doesnt mind me stealing his thread a little grendel. This probably wont ever go down this way but if I wanted to do this what will I need to change up?

I have a Caddy 500, turbo 400 with the short tailshaft (had it built that way by TCI for another project) and a Gear Vendors OD. Would it be possible to put a set up like this in my 71 K20?

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by CG

Hmmm, hopefully special k doesnt mind me stealing his thread a little grendel. This probably wont ever go down this way but if I wanted to do this what will I need to change up?

I have a Caddy 500, turbo 400 with the short tailshaft (had it built that way by TCI for another project) and a Gear Vendors OD. Would it be possible to put a set up like this in my 71 K20?

Yep. Pics in my sig with information on how I did it. Get the right transfer case and adapter to match the output shaft then mate the GV OD.

[special-K]

Steal away.I like mo`info.I don`t have a hard time starting as many threads as are hijcked threads.
Grendel,what and where did you get the stuff for moving the mounting points?You say reverse the brackets,are you refering to the new flip brackets swapped side for side?I`ve only heard bits and pieces and hadn`t started looking into it,yet.But,I`m ready to get going.I wish I had decided to go this route last winter so I could be driving it now.

[jeffspower]

If I understand correctly, you plan on running the OD with 3.54 gears? In a heavy truck with 33" tires, that will be a workout- even for the Caddy motor. Unless you plan on using OD only with the truck bed empty & no trailer at 70+ MPH. 4.10's & OD would be good. IMO, 3.54 gears, 500 Caddy, TH400 & 33" tires would be a great combo. Good for cruising at 80, yet will still rip the tires off with ease

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by special-K

Steal away.I like mo`info.I don`t have a hard time starting as many threads as are hijcked threads.
Grendel,what and where did you get the stuff for moving the mounting points?You say reverse the brackets,are you refering to the new flip brackets swapped side for side?I`ve only heard bits and pieces and hadn`t started looking into it,yet.But,I`m ready to get going.I wish I had decided to go this route last winter so I could be driving it now.

I got the front spring kit from Diy4x.com. It mounts a 52" long spring in the front. Stock rear springs will net 4-6" of lift.

I bought the shackle-flip from him as well. and you're dead on, for the rear, I used the driver's side on the passenger side and vice versa.

[special-K]

That`s what I was wondering about.I had asked in another thread how converting to the later springs would effect the height.The replies I got led me to believe it wouldn`t be affected.I only want 4" of lift.I guess I should just use the rears and look for other front springs.Or,just do a shackle-flip.Doesn`t sound like I`d save money over getting a bolt-on lift.A better ride is nice,but my motivation is using what I have and low budget.Figure,I`ll have a rolling Suburban minus transmission to sell rather than a pile of scrap.
Jeff,I`m not using the 500 in this truck.That was brought over the wrecker talk.It would be an awesome application in that wrecker and I had hoped for it to find it`s way in there.Sorry for the confusion.
I know plenty of people that tow with 3.42 & o/d vehicles and claim that is a fine combo.So,mine will have more grunt than that.It`s just a notch below 3.73s with o/d and that`s a common factory combo.In fact,until recently,that was the lowest gearing offered in 1ton Duramax trucks.I know they have alot of bottom end,but I think I`ll be fine.I figure whenever I rebuild the 350 I`ll build a 383.Guys are swapping-in 3.73s to these trucks and running o/d all the time.This is my recreational truck that I plan to go alot of places in despite crazy rip-off fuel prices and I feel this will make that more sensible.I don`t need museum pieces sitting around.The most I`ll haul is a low-profile camper,most likely.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by special-K

That`s what I was wondering about.I had asked in another thread how converting to the later springs would effect the height.The replies I got led me to believe it wouldn`t be affected.I only want 4" of lift.I guess I should just use the rears and look for other front springs.Or,just do a shackle-flip.Doesn`t sound like I`d save money over getting a bolt-on lift.A better ride is nice,but my motivation is using what I have and low budget.Figure,I`ll have a rolling Suburban minus transmission to sell rather than a pile of scrap.
Jeff,I`m not using the 500 in this truck.That was brought over the wrecker talk.It would be an awesome application in that wrecker and I had hoped for it to find it`s way in there.Sorry for the confusion.
I know plenty of people that tow with 3.42 & o/d vehicles and claim that is a fine combo.So,mine will have more grunt than that.It`s just a notch below 3.73s with o/d and that`s a common factory combo.In fact,until recently,that was the lowest gearing offered in 1ton Duramax trucks.I know they have alot of bottom end,but I think I`ll be fine.I figure whenever I rebuild the 350 I`ll build a 383.Guys are swapping-in 3.73s to these trucks and running o/d all the time.This is my recreational truck that I plan to go alot of places in despite crazy rip-off fuel prices and I feel this will make that more sensible.I don`t need museum pieces sitting around.The most I`ll haul is a low-profile camper,most likely.

How long are the springs from the Burb?

One of the things to consider, longer lift springs are about half of the actual lift. We used a 4" lift 56" long spring in the rear of the Blazer project and a 4" shackle flip to get 6" of lift.

Same went for the front. A 4" lift 52" long spring in the front with the 4" brackets netted 6" total lift.

[duallyjams]

Hey Tim I've got a extra pair of 52" springs if you want to do like Grendel did on the front springs.

[jeffspower]

Oops my bad- Caddy no goin here. I know there are plenty of 3.42 OD small block trucks out there- I didn't have you pegged as a guy that would like it. While it will work fine, I doubt the stock 350 will be fuel friendly lugging along @ 2000 RPM/ 70 MPH. But like you said, stronger motor coming later

What gears did the Sub have?

I did the 52" (5 leaf)/ 56" (8 leaf) swap on the rear of my '72. It lifted the truck about 3 inches, but my old 5 leaves were pretty flattened. I'm running '60? IH 1 ton front springs on the front (originally 6 leafs, 2 removed) that are 2" longer than stock. It rides far better than the OE setup.

I'm a use what ya got kinda guy too

[special-K]

The Suburban has 4.10s and I have always gone for the growlers in my rear...axles.
But,I`m looking at this a little different with fuel at $1.00 a quart.
The springs are 56"ers and my fuzzy head is confused.Does the mount relocation yield 1/2 the lift or add lift?I know on the rear the frame is stright behind the axle and drops at the front.So,,it would seem to raise it up a bit,but not much because it`s only one end.The same on the front,right?Let me ask this...how much lift will I get useing these longer 4" lift springs on my`72?What could I do to get 4" out of these springs?I guess I could scrap the 4" with tall/skinny/stock rubber and end up with a bit more than 4",if that`s the case.How much $ would I be getting into with these new perches?I`m being lazy and cheap.What I`m looking at is either using what I have or buying an "El Cheapo" 4" lift with shocks for under $400.I`ve been running low-tech lifts since the`70s and even made my own lifts.I`m not looking for crazy trael cycles or a Cadillac ride.I just need new tires and don`t want to buy another set of 33s and I can always sell the inferior lift and shocks later when things are better.
Jim,thanks for the offer,I`ll let you know oce I know what the hay I`m doing.It would be neat to do a righteous lift on the cheap.Or,at least less than what I usually spend.My Suburban has the RSXs and they were nearly $400 alone.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by special-K

The Suburban has 4.10s and I have always gone for the growlers in my rear...axles.
But,I`m looking at this a little different with fuel at $1.00 a quart.
The springs are 56"ers and my fuzzy head is confused.Does the mount relocation yield 1/2 the lift or add lift?I know on the rear the frame is stright behind the axle and drops at the front.So,,it would seem to raise it up a bit,but not much because it`s only one end.The same on the front,right?Let me ask this...how much lift will I get useing these longer 4" lift springs on my`72?What could I do to get 4" out of these springs?I guess I could scrap the 4" with tall/skinny/stock rubber and end up with a bit more than 4",if that`s the case.How much $ would I be getting into with these new perches?I`m being lazy and cheap.What I`m looking at is either using what I have or buying an "El Cheapo" 4" lift with shocks for under $400.I`ve been running low-tech lifts since the`70s and even made my own lifts.I`m not looking for crazy trael cycles or a Cadillac ride.I just need new tires and don`t want to buy another set of 33s and I can always sell the inferior lift and shocks later when things are better.
Jim,thanks for the offer,I`ll let you know oce I know what the hay I`m doing.It would be neat to do a righteous lift on the cheap.Or,at least less than what I usually spend.My Suburban has the RSXs and they were nearly $400 alone.

Flipping the shackle reverse brackets and the longer springs is what cuts down the lift height. Shackle reverse typically adds lift in of itself.

In the front, it's the stock springs themselves. a 52" long spring tends to have more arch. They say they will yield 4" of lift on their own.

[jeffspower]

Here's a "zero cost" cheat I done for a little more lift on the rear. Hanger in hand is OE '72, the one I used is off an early '80s C30 single wheel (where the springs came from also).

[special-K]

OoooKayee,I see.Thanks!

[FormerMember]

Could also use the short bracket and flip it around. No lift added beyond the shackle height and allows longer springs.