1972 3/4 GMC alignment? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

70c10 · 05-17-2008, 02:10 PM

This is where it's nice to deal with old school mechanics who notice little things like this!. I remember 70GMCer was going crazy trying to figure this out. I wonder how many people are driving around with this problem due to this easy mistake of reversing the drag link???

Visually it's not something that jumps out easily unless you are working under these front ends alot! Somehow this should be placed in the FAQ section as a reminder when installing these to be careful of the direction in which they are installed! Dave's72GMC- you should post a pic of yours installed backwards as a reference of what NOT to do. This way we could have a Correct pic and Incorrect pic for comparison. I bet this would help alot of people

LONGHAIR · 05-17-2008, 03:48 PM

The real question here is, Why would you replace the center link? Unless it is damaged (bent) from a crash or something like that, there is no reason to replace one. There are no "wear" parts on it. It is a simple (fairly straight) steel bar with "connection points", (tie-rod tapers). That alone would stop this kind of mistake.
Also, for those who are inexperienced yet willing to tackle this kind of thing, there are two techniques to help with this.
First take a digital picture for reference.
Second, and probably more important, don't take everything apart at once. Remove one "section" and replace it, making sure that if fits the "old" components that were left on. Then move on to the others.
In this case: Assuming you do need to replace the center link. First pop the inner toe-rod ends from it. Remove the link itself and install the new one. Slide the "old" tie-rod ends in to "test" Then R/R the outer ends. Personally, If I am replacing both tie-rod ends (inner & outer) on the same side, I use a new connector sleeve too. This does two things for you. First, it saves the hassle of taking the old one apart. Second, it gives you an exact reference as to the length of the old one when you assemble the new tie-rod. It gets you a lot closer to the correct toe setting from the start.
Unfortunately, this is all too late for the OP, but it might help the next guy.

05-17-2008, 02:10 PM	#1
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Re: 1972 3/4 GMC alignment? This is where it's nice to deal with old school mechanics who notice little things like this!. I remember 70GMCer was going crazy trying to figure this out. I wonder how many people are driving around with this problem due to this easy mistake of reversing the drag link??? Visually it's not something that jumps out easily unless you are working under these front ends alot! Somehow this should be placed in the FAQ section as a reminder when installing these to be careful of the direction in which they are installed! Dave's72GMC- you should post a pic of yours installed backwards as a reference of what NOT to do. This way we could have a Correct pic and Incorrect pic for comparison. I bet this would help alot of people __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

05-17-2008, 03:48 PM	#2
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Re: 1972 3/4 GMC alignment? The real question here is, Why would you replace the center link? Unless it is damaged (bent) from a crash or something like that, there is no reason to replace one. There are no "wear" parts on it. It is a simple (fairly straight) steel bar with "connection points", (tie-rod tapers). That alone would stop this kind of mistake. Also, for those who are inexperienced yet willing to tackle this kind of thing, there are two techniques to help with this. First take a digital picture for reference. Second, and probably more important, don't take everything apart at once. Remove one "section" and replace it, making sure that if fits the "old" components that were left on. Then move on to the others. In this case: Assuming you do need to replace the center link. First pop the inner toe-rod ends from it. Remove the link itself and install the new one. Slide the "old" tie-rod ends in to "test" Then R/R the outer ends. Personally, If I am replacing both tie-rod ends (inner & outer) on the same side, I use a new connector sleeve too. This does two things for you. First, it saves the hassle of taking the old one apart. Second, it gives you an exact reference as to the length of the old one when you assemble the new tie-rod. It gets you a lot closer to the correct toe setting from the start. Unfortunately, this is all too late for the OP, but it might help the next guy.



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