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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: johnstown, NY
Posts: 2,393
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Re: brake lines question
i'm gonna jump in here(don't want to hijack). Does anybody have any diagrams of the overall entire brake system for a 4 wheel disk brake setup. Because of various frame and crossmember mods, I think I'm going to build my brake system from scratch. I've been looking at inline tube and they have a universal street rod kit that looks feasible. Hopefully this question will be relevant to the thread.
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#27 | |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: brake lines question
Quote:
71-72, in my experience, use a shorter soft line that terminates at the mounting flange on the crossmember. They are basically at their limit when aired out- i.e. stretched. The prop valves on 71-72 are still on the MC.
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#28 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: brake lines question
Hmm....
I really think the 73-87 setup looks like ass, though (where the valve is mounted). ![]() I'm on the fence. It would take two minutes to weld soft-line mounting tabs on the '77 crossmember and just get a soft line 2" longer. I assume the caliper on the 71-72 and 73-87 has the soft line mount in the same general vicinity.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#29 |
Regular Confuser
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Highlands, Texas
Posts: 197
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Re: brake lines question
this is a pretty damn good thread for us non edgjumicaded break folks
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#30 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: brake lines question
As opposed to the much better location hanging off the bottom of the master cylinder . . ....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#31 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: brake lines question
I'd prefer it was mounted inside the frame rail, but .... mine is bolted to the MC with a 2" bracket, I don't think it necessarily looks bad, though.
If prop valves are that expensive, I recall seeing in the most recent TruckBuilder mag, something about aftermarket MCs that had integrated prop valves, I can't imagine they're more than $350. If so, I understand this means you'd need to make your own lines, but ... at the same time, $80 for a prop valve, $150 for a nice looking MC (chrome, polished aluminum or polished SS) you're talking another $100 to clean up the entire front-end....
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#32 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: brake lines question
Ok, let me tell you - Paul over at www.GMCpauls.com has been a friggin angle with trying to figure all this crap out, being really responsive to emails and actually broke out diagrams for the 67-70, 7-72 and 73-87 trucks and gave me a breakdown on what I'm looking at needing.
With that in mind, I'm going to head home and hang some parts and see what I decide. If I can find an internally proportioned MC like the one in TruckBuilder, I will probably buy it, weld tabs to the '77 crossmember, buy longer soft lines, and just forego all of the nonsense and headaches of routing everything across the front. I think the look will be a lot cleaner as well. Although, admittedly, this approach may not be best suited to everyone. For me, my LS1 has all of my battery/alt/ground wires are routed through that front crossmember and loomed up, so mounting the mess of brake lines and prop valve to that crossmember will just look like ass. Thanks for all the input so far. If anyone has additional ideas, I'm game!
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#33 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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Re: brake lines question
you're making this more complicated than it needs to be. just use the stock 71-72 prop valve & lines everywhere but at the "soft" lines in the front ... weld the tabs and then use braided brake lines that you can purchase in whatever lengths you need as well as with whatever size end you might need. be aware that the right size brake line has a different size thread than the left side brake line.
edit: brake lines have different threads left to right ... not caliper. Last edited by Shane; 03-22-2008 at 02:26 AM. |
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#34 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: brake lines question
I was wanting to nuke the prop valve altogether. I didn't see much more than $150 in savings buying an aftermarket MC with integrated prop, and it would simplify the lines.
Still somewhat mulling it over. I hafta weld up a trellis for our green beans this year, so I'll probably get to welding the tab this weekend while I'm doing that.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#35 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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Re: brake lines question
simplify the lines? custom made lines are VERY expensive and that's what it's gonna take with the aftermarket master cylinder / prop valve gizmo ...
anywhoo ... good luck |
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#36 | |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: brake lines question
right, but it's two of the shortest lines to make, and i have all the flaring tools at home which will do 37/45 deg single/double flare. before i went braided for my fuel lines, i bent out my own aluminum lines. it was all single flare, and i hear double is tougher, but ... i dunno.
i'm probably going to end up going the way you're saying, Shane. your advice is exactly what Paul gave me @ GMCPauls that I was saying I agree w/earlier: Quote:
Thanks for the feedback. We may not think alike on everything, but ... there are some things ![]()
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#37 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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Re: brake lines question
It's all about the trucks brudda-man ... everything else is conversation filler.
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#38 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Texas
Posts: 179
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Re: brake lines question
Quote:
Question that I have is about the fittings for the hard lines...to join them together (Y-block for front lines, barrel to connect to rear, etc.) - is there a place to buy those new as well, or will I have to piece that together from a parts store? Nevertheless, good advice here - thanks!
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72' LWB Cheyenne 73' Camaro Z28/RS 70' Chevelle RagTop 00=ss=00 |
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#39 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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Ok, Shifty I just did a search and found this post and I'm using the EXACT same model year parts and trying to make it all work. It sounds like Shane is on the right track and I got the same advice from Livrat, but when calling Inline Tube, the guy wanted to sell me a whole mess of parts that I don't think I need and it all began to add up very quickly. I'll be using the '77 combi valve that will mount near the MC and want to run the lines in the stock locations for the '68 and have it all work properly. It sounds like I just need 71-72 disk brake lines? I hate to ask since Shane seemed to verify above, but will someone else verify all this, especially with pictures?
![]() I'm going to have to reread this thread a few more times to absorb it all and may call Wes up in Olympia to verify/order parts from.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... Last edited by Brad; 05-09-2008 at 10:01 PM. |
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#40 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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Re: brake lines question
I ordered '71-72 disc lines so we'll see what happens. 2 experts told me that's all I needed.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
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