How hot should my truck run? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

lukecp · 02-02-2003, 06:58 PM

How hot should the coolant be on my truck? I put a new temp guage in it today (the old one was fried), and it is running about 210-215 degrees once it is warmed up. I thought that they were supposed to run about 180. The motor is a 350 with a 2 core radiator. The water pump, radiator, hoses, and coolant were all replaced 2 yrs ago. I put a new Stant 195 degree thermostat in it 2 weeks ago.

71402BB · 02-02-2003, 07:05 PM

I agree, I think you should be running at about 180-190. Try replacing that thermostat with a 180 degree thermostat and see what happens.

lukecp · 02-02-2003, 07:09 PM

It had a 180 in it, but it went out so i replaced it with a 195. The heat seems to be a bit warmer now, which is nice. Will running at 210 hurt my motor any?

tom hand · 02-02-2003, 07:12 PM

If the radiator has enough capacity to cool the motor it should run what ever temperature thermostat you put in it. A two core radiator is a tad small for a 350 so I don't think changing the thermostat to a lower temp will help. Try running without a stat. I have heard people say that will make it run hotter but I have never seen it happen in real life and I have pulled out a bunch of them. Probably going to step up to at least a 3 core if you want it to run 180 in the summer

cableguy0 · 02-02-2003, 08:30 PM

i agree on the radiator get something bigger in there.i had the same problem b4 with my old 2 core. the motor started to run way hot. as soon as i put in the 4 core it stays cool no matter what in traffic moving whatever doenst matter the temperature.

bigvinnie · 02-02-2003, 08:34 PM

you don't say whether you're running a shroud, which can make a big difference is the radiator's cooling efficiency...

Dandeluxe · 02-02-2003, 09:53 PM

MINE RUNS AT 180 DEGREES. ITS GOT A NEW 3 CORE RAD. AND A NEW SHROUD WITH A FIBERGLASS FLEX FAN. I THINK THE FAN BLADE HELPS A LOT THOUGH. LIKE THEY SAID IT SHOULD RUN AT WHATEVER THE THERMOSTAT SAYS ON IT. JMO DAN

gangforward · 02-02-2003, 11:09 PM

I suggest you DON'T Run without a thermostat! It's basic function is to reduce wear on the motor by getting the engine to optimal tempature faster, and then to maintain it. No thermostat is not a solution for a raditor or cooling system problem.

I replaced my two core with a four-core, and now no matter what time of year or what I'm doing the temp guage never moves off whatever thermostat I have installed.

It gets very cold here in the winter and warm in the summer, so I run a 210 thermostat in the winter (heater works much better!) and a 180 in the summer. Small blocks work best in the 180-210 range IMHO.

Longhorn Man · 02-03-2003, 12:02 AM

I agree on keeping a stat in there. gangforward says the exact thing I was going to on that.
I run a 160 stat in mine, a 3 core rad, and no shroud. When the ambeant temp is 70 or above, i run about 10 to 20 degrees above the 160. In the winter, I stay right at 160.
I have found 160 to be a good stat to run, reduces fuel vaporization and my engine feels stronger with it. Plus I get about 1 to 1.5 (average) MPG more with the cooler engine temp.

wxman1 · 02-03-2003, 01:25 AM

I replaced my electrical temp guage with a mechanical guage
when I replaced my dash with Autometer guages. Engine has a
195 thermostat in it. It generally warms up to about 200 degrees
and then cycles down to 185 as the thermostat opens up. It will
do this cycling number in winter when I'm driving around town.
On the interstate it warms up to 195-200 and stays there.

Jim
Mt Juliet

crazy longhorn · 02-03-2003, 01:38 AM

I also agree that you should keep the thermostat. If you are swapping radiators, I would spend the extra for a 4 row core. You will run pretty much right on the thermostat temp with the bigger rad, & will be in better shape as you add any hop up mods, or a larger eng later. Good luck...crazyL

mikep684x4 · 02-03-2003, 01:45 AM

I also agree on keeping a stat in place.The function of it is to bring it to operating temp fast and to keep it there.By removeing it you will not let the water have time to draw the heat out of the block therefore making your prob worse.I also agree on a shroud if one is not in place.Even with a 2 core you'll see a difference

02-02-2003, 06:58 PM	#1
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	How hot should my truck run? How hot should the coolant be on my truck? I put a new temp guage in it today (the old one was fried), and it is running about 210-215 degrees once it is warmed up. I thought that they were supposed to run about 180. The motor is a 350 with a 2 core radiator. The water pump, radiator, hoses, and coolant were all replaced 2 yrs ago. I put a new Stant 195 degree thermostat in it 2 weeks ago. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

02-02-2003, 07:05 PM	#2
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	I agree, I think you should be running at about 180-190. Try replacing that thermostat with a 180 degree thermostat and see what happens. __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

02-02-2003, 07:09 PM	#3
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	It had a 180 in it, but it went out so i replaced it with a 195. The heat seems to be a bit warmer now, which is nice. Will running at 210 hurt my motor any? __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

02-02-2003, 07:12 PM	#4
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	If the radiator has enough capacity to cool the motor it should run what ever temperature thermostat you put in it. A two core radiator is a tad small for a 350 so I don't think changing the thermostat to a lower temp will help. Try running without a stat. I have heard people say that will make it run hotter but I have never seen it happen in real life and I have pulled out a bunch of them. Probably going to step up to at least a 3 core if you want it to run 180 in the summer __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

02-02-2003, 08:30 PM	#5
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	i agree on the radiator get something bigger in there.i had the same problem b4 with my old 2 core. the motor started to run way hot. as soon as i put in the 4 core it stays cool no matter what in traffic moving whatever doenst matter the temperature. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

02-02-2003, 08:34 PM	#6
bigvinnie Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: escondido, ca 92026 Posts: 1,222	you don't say whether you're running a shroud, which can make a big difference is the radiator's cooling efficiency... __________________ '72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project

02-02-2003, 09:53 PM	#7
Dandeluxe Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: st.louis mo. Posts: 717	WATER TEMP? MINE RUNS AT 180 DEGREES. ITS GOT A NEW 3 CORE RAD. AND A NEW SHROUD WITH A FIBERGLASS FLEX FAN. I THINK THE FAN BLADE HELPS A LOT THOUGH. LIKE THEY SAID IT SHOULD RUN AT WHATEVER THE THERMOSTAT SAYS ON IT. JMO DAN __________________ 1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C . ["]FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DRIVE F@RD$!! 1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc I started out with nothing and i held on to it

02-02-2003, 11:09 PM	#8
gangforward Hootis is as Hootis does... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 500	I suggest you DON'T Run without a thermostat! It's basic function is to reduce wear on the motor by getting the engine to optimal tempature faster, and then to maintain it. No thermostat is not a solution for a raditor or cooling system problem. I replaced my two core with a four-core, and now no matter what time of year or what I'm doing the temp guage never moves off whatever thermostat I have installed. It gets very cold here in the winter and warm in the summer, so I run a 210 thermostat in the winter (heater works much better!) and a 180 in the summer. Small blocks work best in the 180-210 range IMHO. __________________ 67 C10 LWB Fleet, 383, TH400, PS, 4BL-Holley, Headers & 3" Exhaust, 3" drop front, 4" rear springs, ECI shock relocate, Panhard Bar kit, wheels & tires 1995 Z28 Convertible - Borla, K&N, Lingenfelter Motor, C6 Wheels & Tires 1990 2500 4x4 Suburban 3" Catbac System, K&N, 2" Lift, Wheels, Tires

02-03-2003, 12:02 AM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I agree on keeping a stat in there. gangforward says the exact thing I was going to on that. I run a 160 stat in mine, a 3 core rad, and no shroud. When the ambeant temp is 70 or above, i run about 10 to 20 degrees above the 160. In the winter, I stay right at 160. I have found 160 to be a good stat to run, reduces fuel vaporization and my engine feels stronger with it. Plus I get about 1 to 1.5 (average) MPG more with the cooler engine temp.

02-03-2003, 01:25 AM	#10
wxman1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: mt juliet, tennessee, usa Posts: 237	I replaced my electrical temp guage with a mechanical guage when I replaced my dash with Autometer guages. Engine has a 195 thermostat in it. It generally warms up to about 200 degrees and then cycles down to 185 as the thermostat opens up. It will do this cycling number in winter when I'm driving around town. On the interstate it warms up to 195-200 and stays there. Jim Mt Juliet

02-03-2003, 01:38 AM	#11
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	I also agree that you should keep the thermostat. If you are swapping radiators, I would spend the extra for a 4 row core. You will run pretty much right on the thermostat temp with the bigger rad, & will be in better shape as you add any hop up mods, or a larger eng later. Good luck...crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

02-03-2003, 01:45 AM	#12
mikep684x4 Seeker of the big and bad Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: wheatland,Calif,yuba Posts: 105	I also agree on keeping a stat in place.The function of it is to bring it to operating temp fast and to keep it there.By removeing it you will not let the water have time to draw the heat out of the block therefore making your prob worse.I also agree on a shroud if one is not in place.Even with a 2 core you'll see a difference __________________ 71 3/4 ton 4x4,665hp 454. 67 GMC 1 ton towtruck 68 chevy LB 4x4 64 chevy LB custom 57 Bel-air 2d station wagon



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