Redoing the rear bag setup.

[colin_havens]

Ok, I am wanting to redo my rear set up, and then later z my front to lay my truck out. Like anyone, once you get started, you are only satisfied for a little while. Let me start with what I currently have. The back is bagged on the stock 2link with a bolt in notch and adj. panhard bar from CCP. I want to get the truck on down where it will lay frame i the rear. Im running 20s all around, with 275/45 rubber on it--tires are 29 inches tall, so I can eventually move up to 22s

Now, I know I will need a bigger notch. KP has one for our trucks, and actually so does suicidedoors. Both fit the crooked ass frame we have on these trucks. I know that the one from suicude doors is a little cheaper. It is a 16 piece kit though.

My questions:

--How many pieces is the KP notch? I would rather use a notch that was not a ton of pieces. Just to save time on welding and grinding to make it all purdy

--I want to run a triangulated 4 link with the bags on the bars. Something like this:http://www.*****************/SuperLliftWishboneKit.php
or this http://www.*****************/SuperLif...d4-LinkKit.php
My question is does anyone have experience with either of these setups, and how long were your bars? Or should i jus tnotch it out and relocate my bags over the axel and use the stock 2 link?

--Also, my truck has a one piece driveshaft, and is a shortbed. I have been told you have to run a 2 piece or tunnel the cab. I dont want a body drop or anything, so is this really necessary?

Thanks for the help in advance guys. I know that I will get some great ideas from the members on here. Also, pics are a plus if you have them!

[Frizzle Fry]

I can vouch for the KP notch: Great product and it's an 8pc.

[GRIMSS]

TTT

This is what I've heard. You want the bars the longest you can fit. Most mini's have them to the rear of the cab. I'm planing on running the same kit on my panel when I get to working on it.

[BACKYARD88]

I built my notch so I can't help you there. And, I don't have a motor/trans in yet either I do have the S/D superlift triangulated four-link on mine. I'd have to measure my bars, I don't remember how long I ordered them. GRIMSS is right on the length, get the longest that will fit, that'll give you less pinion angle change through the range of motion. Here's mine installed(I will be changing a few things but it'll give you an idea nyhow)

[colin_havens]

looks good. I am curious as to why you ran the bars with the bags on them on the inside of the axel instead of outside. Also, will you have to tunnel your cab? i still am wondering if I will have to do that for my one piece axel.

[GRIMSS]

most mount the bars inside for wheel and tire clearance. My guess is yes he'll have to tunnel the cab.

**I like the wire mounted valves

[colin_havens]

does anyone have pics of how much the cab had to be cut? I just want to know what im getting into. Can I keep my in cab tank with this tunnel, or will I have to move it?

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by colin_havens

does anyone have pics of how much the cab had to be cut? I just want to know what im getting into. Can I keep my in cab tank with this tunnel, or will I have to move it?

When I went from 127" to 115" (burb to tahoe) I switched from a 2-piece to a 1-piece. Then I notched the rear and ended up needing to tunnel the floor. But mine's different than a truck cab (that's why I didn't comment earlier). I will say this though; If I were to build a truck with a big notch I'd prefer a 2-piece over the single.

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by colin_havens

looks good. I am curious as to why you ran the bars with the bags on them on the inside of the axel instead of outside. Also, will you have to tunnel your cab? i still am wondering if I will have to do that for my one piece axel.

I plan to narrow the rear so I mounted the bars inside for plenty of clearance. I haven't gotten to the driveshaft part yet but I'd imagine I'll have to tunnel the cab some. If you have to tunnel more than an inch or so the in cab tank will have to go.

[bagged69c10]

I had a superlift 4 link from ssd. My bars were 36" and 38". I would order them about 32'" and 34" if I had to do it again. I had to notch my cab but not past the gas tank. It wasn't much of a notch really. Keep in mind when you build your rear setup that if your ever gonna Z it build it accordingly. I backhalfed mine and within a year i was Zing it. I then found out that my 1 piece driveshaft was going to hit the crossmember where my upper link bars attached to. So I put in a 2 piece.

[colin_havens]

Im guessing that the outside square bars were the shorter bars, right? I am curious as to why you would do the shorter bars. I do plan on zing the front eventually, as the $$$ and wifes permission allow. lol how sad is that!

I am going to make a crossmember out of round tubing, with it notched out high enough for the driveshaft.
Do you have any pics of your setup? I would love to see it. Thanks for the info so far!!

[c10addict]

I used the KP notch on my beater project... GREAT product! Worth the $$$ if you dont want to fab something up...

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by c10addict

I used the KP notch on my beater project... GREAT product! Worth the $$$ if you dont want to fab something up...

I like that! Looks clean

[colin_havens]

that does look great! Can you lay full frame with that setup/

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by colin_havens

Im guessing that the outside square bars were the shorter bars, right? I am curious as to why you would do the shorter bars. I do plan on zing the front eventually, as the $$$ and wifes permission allow. lol how sad is that!

I am going to make a crossmember out of round tubing, with it notched out high enough for the driveshaft.
Do you have any pics of your setup? I would love to see it. Thanks for the info so far!!

My uppers are 34" and the lowers(square ones) are 32". With those lengths I get almost no pinion angle change through the whole range of motion.

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by colin_havens

that does look great! Can you lay full frame with that setup/

Thanks! It will not lay frame the way it is set up now but the notch is big enough to set it up to do so...

[98L150]

c10addict,
does the rear end of your truck layout or do the trailing arms hit the inside of the frame before that happens? if it doesn't lay out how far is from doing so?

[c10addict]

It does not lay out... There is a 29.74 tall tire on it and the bottom of the frame is 4.5 inches off the ground.. Thats a big tire though! The trailing arms are touching the frame and I have probably 4 inches left in the top of the notch....

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by c10addict

It does not lay out... There is a 29.74 tall tire on it and the bottom of the frame is 4.5 inches off the ground.. Thats a big tire though! The trailing arms are touching the frame and I have probably 4 inches left in the top of the notch....

Time for lowering blocks

[BACKYARD88]

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Time for lowering blocks

I have 2" CCP blocks in there now... Need to get some flat aluminum 1" stock and give it some more drop! I am ready to pull the trigger on z'ing the frame.. Any good links on exactly where to slice and dice?? I have been studying pics on here and think I have it figured out... Although backyard88 with his angle cut to move everything forward threw a new mix in the old Z...

[BACKYARD88]

I don't think it's super important where you cut it, just make sure it will clear the firewall Only dond side I've found to moving the suspension forward like I did is I have to modify my core support to clear the P/S gear. That's nothing compared to the crap I've already had to deal with