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Old 06-19-2008, 11:38 AM   #1
1970 CST Short Wide
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Ouch it Broke

Father’s day my son and I went to a car show. On the way home I opened up the electric cut outs on the headers and let her rip down the freeway, LOTS OF NOISE AND FUN. Anyway as we come off the freeway ramp I said to my son "see when it gets warm you can hear that damn lifter ticking" (Typical Big Block) than all of a sudden it got a whole lot louder. Oh Sh!t I said I think we broke some thing, as it dropped a cylinder. Managed to get it home and pulled the valve cover, hey where’s the push rod? oh here it is way down in the hole. I pulled the push rod out then said "hey where’s the lifter?
I pulled the intake and there it was lying in the valley. Long story short it killed the cam, those good hard push rods I bought took did a fine job of dinging up the lobe. This motor always sounded like solid lifters even though it is hydraulic so I said “well if it wants to sound like solids then solid shall be”.
I ordered a Lunati 20202: it’s the 396/427 HiPerf cam that came in the 69/70 SS Chevelle’s. I'll let you know how it all works out when I get it in. Cam should be here early next week
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2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son
71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son
2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son
2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:24 PM   #2
ChevLoRay
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Re: Ouch it Broke

I grew up with the "if you can't make it run, make it loud" philosophy drilled into my head. So, my truck is loud.

Sounds like yours got too loud and then quit, huh? Is there a moral in this story?

Geeze, wish I had a big block....


Let us know how it turns out. I'm jealous.
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Last edited by ChevLoRay; 06-19-2008 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:27 PM   #3
SRH916
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Re: Ouch it Broke

I have a quick question, what cut-outs do you use?
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:33 PM   #4
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Re: Ouch it Broke

i'm surprized the 350 stays in one piece behind the big block
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idea's for the trucks and the order of things to do are taking shape and get closer to being realized , a few more months and i be able to start building for real

i complete 2 of the trucks intoo running fashion one custom and one basicly stock the thirth will be sacrificed for parts
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:47 PM   #5
steelhorse
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Just go ahead and put a roller cam in it,and some heads and while your at it bump the compression a bit.hmmm maybe a stroker crank.Sorry its an illness I cant help it.
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Old 06-20-2008, 01:00 AM   #6
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Re: Ouch it Broke

put a diesel in it
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Old 06-20-2008, 01:04 AM   #7
Jerry Jones
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Re: Ouch it Broke

As Tim the tool man would say... OOOHHH OOOHHH OOOHHH
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Last edited by Jerry Jones; 06-20-2008 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 01:29 AM   #8
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Re: Ouch it Broke

I just subscribed to this. I want to hear how that cam works out. I just picked up a set of 71 LS6 454 Heads I plan on bolting on the 396 short block I have. Along with the 750 Demon that came with the heads. I just cant decide on the cam. I will be curious to see how you like it in yours. Take a video of how it sounds with the new cam post on You Tube and send us a link. I cant wait to hear it!
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57 Chev 3100
05 Chevy LLY Dmax.
67 Chevy Camaro

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Last edited by Sinisterspeed; 06-20-2008 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:16 AM   #9
caminokid
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Re: Ouch it Broke

There is nothing like the sound of a Big Bock Chevy! That deep rumble puts the fear in the hearts of all! The excitement of opening that hood and the space is filled. Those huge valve covers...let you know this isnt what you want to play with! It will spank a small block and make it run home crying....small block FORD that is!!!
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:28 AM   #10
bad6772
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Re: Ouch it Broke

lol....................
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:14 AM   #11
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Re: Ouch it Broke

I've run the factory version of that cam and also the crane copy of it several times and loved it. It will really wake it up and extend your rpm range. You may know all this but I'll pass it on in case. The only problem is you have to carefully adjust the valves and you will have to do it often and you really need to do it with the engine hot. Use a set of poly locks and you won't have to adjust it as often. Be sure to readjust it after you break it in. I always would do one side at a time, after the first side was done I would crank it and let it warm up again then do the other side. I also used a remote starter button so I could bump the engine over with less hassle while adjusting it. If you use a set of poly lock remove the studs and carefully take a file or put them in a lathe and flatten the top off so the set screw will have a flat surface to bite to.
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Castro- 72 SWB. Ochre and White. 496/400 turbo, GV OD ,Dakota Digital dash , tilt, Vintage Air, PS, hydro boost, factory buckets, console, QA-1 Coil over suspension, 20/20"Billet Specialties Magnetos

72 SWB. Med blue. 454/400 turbo, tach, tilt, Stock AC, PS,PDB, factory buckets, console, ECE 4/6 drop w/ 2" blocks and C-notch, 20/20"Coys- Crashed and destroyed by drunk driver Sept 2019. New 72 build in the works.

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https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=820934

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Old 06-20-2008, 08:48 AM   #12
72BlckButy
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Ouch sorry to hear about that... but at least you took it for one last ride!
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1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6)
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:07 AM   #13
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Bad luck! But at least you found out what was making that ticking sound.
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:38 AM   #14
jerry moss
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Unhappy Re: Ouch it Broke

sorry to hear that, Steve. best of luck with the new goodies, i'm sure it'll work out for the best.
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72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD
69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies.
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:58 AM   #15
1970 CST Short Wide
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by SRH916 View Post
I have a quick question, what cut-outs do you use?
These were given to me, I dont think I would pay the price otherwise

Race Ready Performance Electric Exhaust Cutout Kits

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Cutout Valve Features

6061-T6 billet aluminum housing machined down to .600"
CNC-machined housing ensures positive seal to Y-pipe
Extra thick gasket seals better and protects against heat
High-temperature O-ring strengthens seal
Built-in thermal protection device helps prevent motor overload
Bull nose butterfly secures matching Bull nose seat
Double-sealed 303 stainless steel butterfly = no leaks
Stainless steel shafts, coupler, and hardware
Proven, dependable gear reduction drive motor
Slotted bolt holes for mounting flexibility

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Built-in, quick-blow 3 amp fuse
Heavy-duty, heat-resistant 16-gauge wire
Positive and negative leads labeled for easy installation


JEGS EZ Complete Kits are designed by JEGS professionals so you get all the parts you need. For 2.5", 3", or 3.5" dual exhaust, each kit includes:
Cutout Valves
Wiring Harness
Exhaust Cutouts
Hardware
Outlet Tips (Included on kit P/N's ending with ''1'')
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN
2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son
71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son
2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son
2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car
2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride
Pittsburg Ca
94565
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Old 06-20-2008, 10:00 AM   #16
1970 CST Short Wide
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSFMECH View Post
I've run the factory version of that cam and also the crane copy of it several times and loved it. It will really wake it up and extend your rpm range. You may know all this but I'll pass it on in case. The only problem is you have to carefully adjust the valves and you will have to do it often and you really need to do it with the engine hot. Use a set of poly locks and you won't have to adjust it as often. Be sure to readjust it after you break it in. I always would do one side at a time, after the first side was done I would crank it and let it warm up again then do the other side. I also used a remote starter button so I could bump the engine over with less hassle while adjusting it. If you use a set of poly lock remove the studs and carefully take a file or put them in a lathe and flatten the top off so the set screw will have a flat surface to bite to.
All very good info and I do use it
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN
2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son
71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son
2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son
2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car
2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride
Pittsburg Ca
94565
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Old 06-20-2008, 10:02 AM   #17
1970 CST Short Wide
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by watahyahknow View Post
i'm surprized the 350 stays in one piece behind the big block
The guy who built it guarantees its and I do abuse it, so far so good
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN
2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son
71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son
2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son
2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car
2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride
Pittsburg Ca
94565
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Old 06-20-2008, 10:03 AM   #18
1970 CST Short Wide
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Re: Ouch it Broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by milled View Post
put a diesel in it
NO
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN
2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son
71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son
2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son
2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car
2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride
Pittsburg Ca
94565
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