06-23-2008, 12:30 PM | #1 |
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lowering question
Is there anyway to measure something in the front to see how much it is lowered now by PO? Wanting to start planning my front end redo and I like the hieght now but am wanting to redo the springs and shocks and stuff.
Thanks
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-23-2008, 12:38 PM | #2 |
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Re: lowering question
I may be wrong but I believe on a 2wd the highest point of the wheel well should be 32" from the ground in the front and 34" in the back for stock ride height. You might want to verify that but LMC's catalog had it as a reference in the 67-72 suspension section.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1970 Custom/10 LWB-Stock and ugly, for now. 2005 Custom Chopper-100ci Rigid. 2004 Dodge Ram...did he say "Dodge"... |
06-23-2008, 01:25 PM | #3 |
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Re: lowering question
of course that would only hold if my tires and rims were the same hieght as stock anyone know the total hieght of stock setup rims and tires?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-23-2008, 04:09 PM | #4 |
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Re: lowering question
I believe approximately 28".
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1970 Custom/10 LWB-Stock and ugly, for now. 2005 Custom Chopper-100ci Rigid. 2004 Dodge Ram...did he say "Dodge"... |
06-23-2008, 06:53 PM | #5 |
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Re: lowering question
looks like my tires are 27 inches high. And my front is 291/2 and rear is 30 inches to high spot on arch
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-23-2008, 10:29 PM | #6 |
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Re: lowering question
You will also have to compensate for old saggy springs as well, that will affect the height of teh front end because if you drop in new lowering springs it might actually sit higher than it does currently.
By the way, check out the Midwest part of the board, and see if your schedule is clear for the Midwest All Truck Nats. It looks like we will have quite a few board members attending, and we'll always have room for one more. If you would like to see different lowering kits on the same truck, check out ECE's (Early Classic Enterprises) stance photos here... this might help to give you a better idea on where you want your truck to end up. Click on the "next" button at the bottom of the page to find the LWB pics. Good luck with the project!
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-Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) Last edited by 72BlckButy; 06-23-2008 at 10:32 PM. |
06-24-2008, 09:39 AM | #7 |
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Re: lowering question
If I had to guess your truck is 2 1/2" lower in the front and 4" lower in the back. Do you know if there are any aftermarket parts in the suspension or is it stock components as of now? If its stock then you might plan for a 2.5/4 drop if you like the way it sits now.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1970 Custom/10 LWB-Stock and ugly, for now. 2005 Custom Chopper-100ci Rigid. 2004 Dodge Ram...did he say "Dodge"... |
06-24-2008, 11:43 AM | #8 |
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Re: lowering question
Nothing in the front. Knowing the PO he cut or heated the front springs but that looks like it. The rear is 4inches only reason I know is he put 4 inch blocks in they will be going soon also. yes I was thinking 2 1/2 or 3 in front and 4 or 5 in rear.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-24-2008, 01:18 PM | #9 | |
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Re: lowering question
Quote:
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06-24-2008, 01:40 PM | #10 |
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Re: lowering question
that sounds about right slammed I will measure tonight but if I cut my original 27.00 in half and subtract that it is about 3. in front and 5.5 in rear and I always thought it was around 3/5.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-24-2008, 02:32 PM | #11 |
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Re: lowering question
Take a look at this page.... LINKY
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-Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) |
06-24-2008, 02:37 PM | #12 |
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Re: lowering question
4" blocks in the rear? Are you certain about this?
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
06-24-2008, 03:16 PM | #13 |
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Re: lowering question
Yup I measured them they are 4 inch my trailing arms are like 2 inches off the ground. The only thing that worries me is the are well below the scrub line so if I get a flat it will suck.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-24-2008, 05:12 PM | #14 |
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Re: lowering question
Alex, did they stack two sets of 2" blocks or make one thick 4" block???. If I was you I would buy a 5" rear spring if thats what you want and then adjust the front down to whatever rake you are looking for. I like your stance right now!
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
06-24-2008, 05:36 PM | #15 |
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Re: lowering question
Hey jim still love the panels. Yes they are homemade blocks they are completely boxed and look to be very sturdy but they will have to go once I redo the rear suspension.
Yes I was thinking of getting a 5 inch lowering kit with springs, shock relocators ,and adjustable tracking arm. Then seeing how it sits and go from there.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-24-2008, 06:17 PM | #16 |
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Re: lowering question
I'll bet they are close to the ground! Definitely downsize to some 2" blocks + the shorter springs.
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06-24-2008, 06:28 PM | #17 |
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Re: lowering question
I think no blocks and 5 inch springs.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
06-24-2008, 06:57 PM | #18 | |
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Re: lowering question
Quote:
I got 20" on all four corner, center of axle/hub to bottom edge of fender. As it sits, the truck is level. I have looked at the ECE stance page and just want to verify, these pictures are what the stance should look like regardless of where I am at now, correct? Thanks.
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06-24-2008, 09:46 PM | #19 |
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Re: lowering question
My .02 worth . ..... I feel that lowering blocks actually benefit these trucks w/drops that exceed 4" because they help minimize the amount of shock travel lost w/larger spring only drops.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 06-24-2008 at 09:46 PM. |
06-24-2008, 10:05 PM | #20 |
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Re: lowering question
SCOTI brings up a good point. I'm planning to add a 1" or 1.5" block to the rear of my truck which has 4" springs. I figure with my new KYB's, track bar and a set of relocators I should be good to go. I might even add a thin sway bar later on.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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