What is needed after 4" drop?

[dieselarmy13]

If you are going 6 in the rear, you need a notch. some will say you don't, but smacking your axle on the frame aint cool, trust me. As for the front, getting 3'' out of a cut coil seems a bit extreme, but it might work. Personally, I would, go with drop spindles.

[Kracin]

Originally Posted by dieselarmy13

If you are going 6 in the rear, you need a notch. some will say you don't, but smacking your axle on the frame aint cool, trust me. As for the front, getting 3'' out of a cut coil seems a bit extreme, but it might work. Personally, I would, go with drop spindles.

ive heard from a bit of reliable people that 3 inches in front is achievable with only cutting 1 coil from the front coil, and many have cut a whole coil off the front with no problems, but sometimes people tend to leave out things like "well i cut 1 coil and dropped the truck 3 inches!! *OMIT - and i changed the shocks for drop shocks, new drop spindles, and put in disc brakes in order for it to work!! - /OMIT*, and it looks awesome now!" lol, know what i mean?

but worse comes to worse and i end up putting the truck out of comission for a couple weeks until new parts arrive if it doesnt ride right after cutting the front and putting in the rears with a c - notch

[dieselarmy13]

13

[HoupPhotography]

Take the time and save the money to do your drop correctly. I have drums on the front of mine and it's really low, it took some headaches to get it there, now that it's there the headaches keep comin'

If you do a conversion, spindles, C-notch etc., wipe your hands, it's done and done right, knowing you don't need to go back and fix something later is a nice...

Here is a photo of mine on drums....




This is a bad photochop of what it will look like when its done, but about 2" lower...

[cdowns]

if you take the front end apart weather to chop coils or install spindles it's quite foolish to not replace old ball joints tierod ends etc if they're the original pieces JMO

[ChevLoRay]

Originally Posted by cdowns

if you take the front end apart weather to chop coils or install spindles it's quite foolish to not replace old ball joints tierod ends etc if they're the original pieces JMO

When I dropped mine, the ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings and shafts were also replaced. An alignment showed that the pitman arm and the idler arm were worn too much to reuse. Tie rod ends were replaced, too.

Simply replacing the spindles, as I did, lowered mine 2.5 inches in front. That didn't change the geometry as it relates to shocks. Shorter coils will give less room for the shock to travel, so shocks are a given.

In the rear, a 4+ drop needs the adjustable panhard rod to enable re-centering the rear end under the chassis. Shorter springs mean you need shorter shocks, too. In order for the shocks to work correctly, you need to re-position the mounting of the shocks, to restore the angles at which they operate.

In short, yeah, you can cut the coils and lower the truck. But, the result could very well be that you have a truck that looks good sitting still and can't be operated safely in all conditions, due to the bastardized geometry of the suspension.

[Kracin]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

When I dropped mine, the ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings and shafts were also replaced. An alignment showed that the pitman arm and the idler arm were worn too much to reuse. Tie rod ends were replaced, too.

Simply replacing the spindles, as I did, lowered mine 2.5 inches in front. That didn't change the geometry as it relates to shocks. Shorter coils will give less room for the shock to travel, so shocks are a given.

In the rear, a 4+ drop needs the adjustable panhard rod to enable re-centering the rear end under the chassis. Shorter springs mean you need shorter shocks, too. In order for the shocks to work correctly, you need to re-position the mounting of the shocks, to restore the angles at which they operate.

In short, yeah, you can cut the coils and lower the truck. But, the result could very well be that you have a truck that looks good sitting still and can't be operated safely in all conditions, due to the bastardized geometry of the suspension.

sounds like a plan, and i know that the bushings and tie rods arent expensive either, but that damn panhard rod i think was a little pricey, but needed of course if its gonna drive right.

thanks for all the replies guys, this give some good isight into whats gonna be needed for this.