Uh-oh?

[Wookiee]

Well, it's definately bad news anyway. Had a couple rocker studs pull lose when I got on it yesterday. It's a rebuilt 350, nothing special, and of course it's out of warranty. I guess I have two questions. First, are the studs supposed to go all the way into the water jacket? If so, can I install new press in studs, or will I have to go the screw in route? I know regardless I'll have to replace the pushrods and lifters. I just need guidance on wether or not I need a new head.

[umwtnt]

With your studs pulling out I would definitely go the screw in route. Or go with another set of heads. I would not trust them again without machining them for the screw in studs.

[Super-Dave]

I had the same problem with mine, cost me $100 to get the head machined and new screw-ins .

[truckdude239]

man cost me40 buxs to have a head done with new screw in studs

[Billla]

You'll have to install screw-in studs. They come in two types - shoulderless, and shoulder for use with guideplates. Shoulder studs require that the boss is machined flat - if you need guideplates best to take this to a shop. Note that someone will likely pop up and talk about pinning the studs - drilling a hole in the boss and inserting a pin. This is a ton MORE work and the studs typically work loose.

It is something you can do at home, and you can do it on the car in desperation...but I'd recommend just pulling them off. It is possible to get into the water jacket...so you need to be careful.

This is the stud remover and drill/tap alignment tool

3/8-24 shoulderless studs require a 7/16-14 tap; the drill size is letter U.

[cst70rocket]

Drill them and roll pin. Cheap, fast, and effective.

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by cst70rocket

Drill them and roll pin. Cheap, fast, and effective.

Billia called it!

[Wookiee]

Thank you, everybody, for your opinions. Sounds like the consensus is to go screw in. Dissenting opinion noted though.
Billla said be careful not to hit the water jacket, part of the problem is that it has already been hit. When I worked one of the studs out, it was followed by alot of coolant. Is this an unforgivable condition, or am I okay to install studs with water on their backside?

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Wookiee

Thank you, everybody, for your opinions. Sounds like the consensus is to go screw in. Dissenting opinion noted though.
Billla said be careful not to hit the water jacket, part of the problem is that it has already been hit. When I worked one of the studs out, it was followed by alot of coolant. Is this an unforgivable condition, or am I okay to install studs with water on their backside?

Yes it will be fine, in fact most aftermarket heads are like this because of the bigger ports, etc. You'll just need to put sealant of the studs when you install just you would the head bolts. I've always preferred ARP thread sealant, but I have used Permatex Ultra Copper with no problems as well.

[67_C-30]

Oh and for the record, I have run the absolute fool of many SBCs with drilled and pinned studs. In the hobby stock class at the local dirt tracks, screw in studs used to be considered a Hi-Perf part even though came on some heads from the factory (they changed the rules now). I have built engines that have run numerous seasons with pinned heads without a failure as long as there was still some press still left when the stud went in. Drilling them can be tricky and a little time consuming as others have said.

With that being said, I'd still go with screw in studs if you have the means.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

Yes it will be fine, in fact most aftermarket heads are like this because of the bigger ports, etc. You'll just need to put sealant of the studs when you install just you would the head bolts. I've always preferred ARP thread sealant, but I have used Permatex Ultra Copper with no problems as well.

I generally use Permatex Thread Sealant

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

as long as there was still some press still left when the stud went in.

Yep, I agree - if done with newly pressed-in studs it will work...but in this case where a couple have already pulled I wouldn't see it as viable.

Just as an aside - generally hot-tanking a head means putting in screw-in studs. The heat cycle has a tendency to loosen 'em up. As Spock said once "It is not logical - but it is often so."

[Wookiee]

Thanks 67_C-30! That's exactly what I wanted to know. Good thing I got a summit coupon in the mail the other day. Time to order everything I need for a screw-in retrofit job on both heads. Might as well do it once and not tempt fate. Makes me wish I'd paid more attention to the head guys when I worked in the machine shop. But, still sounds like something I can handle. Thanks again to everybody who replied. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.