K10 Running hot

[killer_mike]

In the process of cheking the intake gaskets, just need to get some compressed air to blow away the debris from grinding the firewall so i can take the dist out.
And found some leaks on the rad wich i thought where the hoses, but have to replace the hoses anyways.

[killer_mike]

Intake is out, no coolant on valves or under the intake or push rod area, just a little bit of uncontaminated oil. But the gaskets on the intake the same area on both gaskets is burned and that is on the middle hole between the chambers wich i think is for vacuum or something, the 2 rear ones have coolant inside, but the ones on the front smell like coolant was there, but the thing is that my intake dont have holes there.
Now im wondering if i was supposed to do some machine work to open those holes because this leads me to think that the cylinders 1-3 and 2-4 are overheating.
I tried to get a cooling system diagram for the block or something that tells me where the coolant should flow through on a 350, but no luck.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by killer_mike

But the gaskets on the intake the same area on both gaskets is burned and that is on the middle hole between the chambers wich i think is for vacuum or something, the 2 rear ones have coolant inside, but the ones on the front smell like coolant was there, but the thing is that my intake dont have holes there.

That burned area in the center of the gaskets is the exhaust heat cross-over. It is designed to speed-up the warm-up of the engine and to provide heat for the old style divorced choke coil. Most guys block them off. The only negative side of that is slower warming in cold weather.

The overheating could be coming from several sources.
I would try to confirm coolant flow first. Just because the radiator is flowing when tested, does not mean that the coolant is flowing in the engine itself. Someone suggested flushing....That is probably a good idea. Anything that could be in the coolant passages in the block may be causing a blockage/restriction.
You should definitely check the thermostat. Make sure that nothing is clogging that area. Pieces of gaskets or sealant, etc.

Water pumps are fairly simple, there really isn't anything that can really go wrong there....as long as it is turning the right direction. Back in the olden days we didn't have that worry.

It is "theoretically" possible that there was an air pocket stopping the flow, but that usually goes away the first time the thermostat opens. If you are puking out the radiator over-flow the 'stat is definitely opening.

Yes, lack of a fan shroud can make you run hot, but you are probably in a borderline situation anyway, if it does. Since you said that it gets hot so fast, that is probably not the problem in this case....but I would still get one.

What kind of fan is on this thing? You stated that it was not a clutch fan correct?

[killer_mike]

The fan is conected straight to the water pump. Im gonna check my carb too, im suspecting it might be too rich, didnt tune it when i put it on, neither did the mecanic shop when it didnt start.
Is there something that chavy engines come from the factory that is to be taken off before installation like some coolant passages plugs or paper somewhere...?

[killer_mike]

Ok, its been a while and alot of fun things happened to the truck.
The overheating, well, we tried taking the thermo off, and it does run good, except when its on idle, not going anywhere, the temp rises, i bought a brand new shroud, because the fan is about 8" away from the radiator, so theres barely any air going through the radiator, except of course when its moving.

When the truck is moving the temp is around the 160s, not bad , had the rad tested and everything is it checks out better than new, i dont know how it happened, but that was what the rad shop told me, the average for my 4 core was i think somewhere around 45 gallons per minute and it gave him almost 50.

Alright just an update and someone might benefit from the tips and my mistakes.