big block driveline???

[70rs/ss]

https://s1.uia.net/iedls/onepiece.html


If you have the measurements, you can click on this link to a form from IE and get a quote or call

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

https://s1.uia.net/iedls/onepiece.html


If you have the measurements, you can click on this link to a form from IE and get a quote or call

I called drivelines NW thats local here also. Going to go into them and get a quote also.. I mentioned what i had and what i needed and he said maybe a couple hundred.. So im thinking 200 bucks ish or so... I will find out on monday for sure... Im off so i will take it in to them..

[70rs/ss]

I think the most I've ever spent on a new tube, slip yoke shaft (4X4 type) etc was $150. So yeah, I'd say shop around a bit! Those guys in Chino Valley are insane. I never would have thought a business of that caliber would be found in that little town, heck there is another guy who builds custom headers for race cars, etc there as well ( a member here had a set {like $1200-1800 a set!}). It was mind boggling?!

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

I think the most I've ever spent on a new tube, slip yoke shaft (4X4 type) etc was $150. So yeah, I'd say shop around a bit! Those guys in Chino Valley are insane. I never would have thought a business of that caliber would be found in that little town, heck there is another guy who builds custom headers for race cars, etc there as well ( a member here had a set {like $1200-1800 a set!}). It was mind boggling?!

Im going to try these guys in seattle. I kind of want to do local since i have my driveline here... i cant ship it to someone you know.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Im going to try these guys in seattle. I kind of want to do local since i have my driveline here... i cant ship it to someone you know.

No, I understand it was just a thought. Local is better in case of an issue, but I live in the sticks up here, I ship my stuff to and from as driving sometimes is a bit too far/expensive.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

No, I understand it was just a thought. Local is better in case of an issue, but I live in the sticks up here, I ship my stuff to and from as driving sometimes is a bit too far/expensive.

Ok, went to the guys in seattle. Drivelines NW. I just went in and told them what i wanted, gave them my measurments and he came back with the price of 230 bucks. ahaha the other shop wanted 450 with my discount....

So, they are doing it now and i might have it back today. ahaha All i have left is just installing (making) my exhaust and i can put the cab back on. WOOOOT.

[corn]

I think I would have waited until the cab was back on & all acc figured out. Sure would suck to find out you have to move the motor back or forward an inch & have to do the whole drive shaft deal again...

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by corn

I think I would have waited until the cab was back on & all acc figured out. Sure would suck to find out you have to move the motor back or forward an inch & have to do the whole drive shaft deal again...

Its a big block. they came with big blocks and this one is mounted where the original big block would be mounted.. I dont see any problems.. Plus, i have REAALLY BFHammers. ahahah

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

No, I understand it was just a thought. Local is better in case of an issue, but I live in the sticks up here, I ship my stuff to and from as driving sometimes is a bit too far/expensive.

Got it back... New ujoints and strap kit. Looks really good. I will install it and let you guys no how she sits...

[70rs/ss]

Picts of it?? Did they use the 4x type slip thing? BTW if anyone knows the "name" of that part I'll try to remember it!?

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Picts of it?? Did they use the 4x type slip thing? BTW if anyone knows the "name" of that part I'll try to remember it!?

Pics later.. I will put them here and in my build thread.

Its called a stub shaft slip yoke....

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Picts of it?? Did they use the 4x type slip thing? BTW if anyone knows the "name" of that part I'll try to remember it!?

Pics as promised....

Im kinda runnin into an issue. The trailing arm crossmember is less then 1/4 of an inch away from touching. This is with the truck at its driving height. IT WILL be lower once i have the airbags installed....

So, got the driveline installed...

here are some pics.
Custom line... neat neat.







Can i just cut the top of the crossmember, and box in above it to get me some more room.? How much room do i have between the crossmember and the rear of my floor???

[lyrikz]

Soooo, anyone have any idea how much room is between the floor and that trailing arm crossmember??? Any reason why i cant move that up a bit? Anyone???

[LONGHAIR]

Somehow I missed this thread in the begining, not sure how? ....But, I would have cautioned you about this very thing. There are several issues involved here.
First, the two-piece driveshaft moves the pivot point out past the crossmember, because of the carrier bearing, so this clearence thing never comes into play.

Second, a one-piece driveshaft of the same length requires larger diameter tubing, which makes this worse. Plus the fact that the pivot point is now near the tailshaft of the transmission, so there is vertical movement at the crossmember instead of it being a mounting point.
This is bad enough with stock-travel suspension.....air bags will make it even worse!

From the pic you posted, I would say that this will not fly. Any upward travel of the wheel (jounce) will cause contact with the crossmember.

This is the point of custom crossmembers that are made to compensate for this travel. Early Classic Enterprises makes a crossmember like this. I'm sure that there are others too.

Here is a pic of theirs:

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Somehow I missed this thread in the begining, not sure how? ....But, I would have cautioned you about this very thing. There are several issues involved here.
First, the two-piece driveshaft moves the pivot point out past the crossmember, because of the carrier bearing, so this clearence thing never comes into play. The driveline shop said it wasnt necessary for a 2 piece...

Second, a one-piece driveshaft of the same length requires larger diameter tubing, which makes this worse. Well, this driveline is the stock one for the inline six. But they SHORTENED it and added the snub nose. I informed them of my engine size, what i had plans for and this is what they recommended...Plus the fact that the pivot point is now near the tailshaft of the transmission, so there is vertical movement at the crossmember instead of it being a mounting point.
This is bad enough with stock-travel suspension.....air bags will make it even worse!

From the pic you posted, I would say that this will not fly.thats what im thinking. So your recommending REPLACING the crossmember? I was going to cut the top of my crossmember off and weld on a 6 inch 1/2 moon pipe to replace that top, so that will give me an extra inch or two. I need to know how much room is between the crossmember and the bottom of my floor.. Any upward travel of the wheel (jounce) will cause contact with the crossmember. ya, def. cant drive it like that without it being higher or that crossmember being fixed.

This is the point of custom crossmembers that are made to compensate for this travel. Early Classic Enterprises makes a crossmember like this. I'm sure that there are others too.

Here is a pic of theirs:

Thats a pretty crossmember. I dont want it if i can get away with modifying my own... You know how much room is between the floor and that crossmember???

[LONGHAIR]

lyrikz,
I'm kind of lost about what is not "necessary"? You mean that it doesn't have to be a 2 piece shaft?...Right, I have no issue with it either way. My point was that with a 2 piece shaft this would be a "non-issue". Clearence would not be a factor, for both reasons I stated. The bearing takes the whole thing out-of-play nor does it require larger diameter tubing.
Since your truck is a SWB, the one piece is fine, plus it puts the crossmember that much closer to the transmission anyway, making the vertical trave less of a factor.
Since you already have a one piece that fits, you will now have to make the clearence you need. I just posted the pic of an existing part because I have no idea of your fabrication skills, tool availibility, or timeline.....and to give you an idea of how to solve this. If you are able/confident to modify your original crossmember, that is great.

As far as the amount of space to the bottom of the body? I couldn't tell you, but would think that there are at least a couple of inches there?
Are you fully aired-out in those pics? If that is your maximum travel, minus whatever bump-stop crush you might have, you should be fine with gaining 2 inches or so....Certainly that wouldn't cause body interference problems?... by the looks of ECE's part, there is that much room. But I wouldn't go for "mimimum clearence" either, it would suck to have to re-do it.

[70rs/ss]

Just cut the top arch off of the OE crossmember and weld in a piece to sort of look like the pict. I have seen some use a piece of pipe (6" ish diameter pipe cut in half) or a piece of flat bar bend into a U and then welded in. Looks sweet and if you only air it out to park (not up and down as you drive), I'd doubt you'll have an issue, especially if you can get the new piece to clear when completely air out. Shaft looks sweet!

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

lyrikz,
I'm kind of lost about what is not "necessary"? You mean that it doesn't have to be a 2 piece shaft?...Right, I have no issue with it either way. My point was that with a 2 piece shaft this would be a "non-issue". Clearence would not be a factor, for both reasons I stated. The bearing takes the whole thing out-of-play nor does it require larger diameter tubing.
Since your truck is a SWB, the one piece is fine, plus it puts the crossmember that much closer to the transmission anyway, making the vertical trave less of a factor.
Since you already have a one piece that fits, you will now have to make the clearence you need. I just posted the pic of an existing part because I have no idea of your fabrication skills, tool availibility, or timeline.....and to give you an idea of how to solve this. If you are able/confident to modify your original crossmember, that is great.

As far as the amount of space to the bottom of the body? I couldn't tell you, but would think that there are at least a couple of inches there?
Are you fully aired-out in those pics? If that is your maximum travel, minus whatever bump-stop crush you might have, you should be fine with gaining 2 inches or so....Certainly that wouldn't cause body interference problems?... by the looks of ECE's part, there is that much room. But I wouldn't go for "mimimum clearence" either, it would suck to have to re-do it.

Get ya... I didnt want to hassle with a two piece... IM pretty confident in modifying my crossmember and it would probably be easier then doing a two piece. ahaha I dont know... IM gonna go with max clearance which is 1 3/8 inches... That should give me 2 inches or so... The truck is LOW right now.. 7 inch drop in rear or so.... Thanks for all the info man.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Just cut the top arch off of the OE crossmember and weld in a piece to sort of look like the pict. I have seen some use a piece of pipe (6" ish diameter pipe cut in half) or a piece of flat bar bend into a U and then welded in. Looks sweet and if you only air it out to park (not up and down as you drive), I'd doubt you'll have an issue, especially if you can get the new piece to clear when completely air out. Shaft looks sweet!

ahhah YAAA... The pipe i think will be easier... I will post pics of that... i will be chopppppin soon. ahaha

[70rs/ss]

Yeah, my labor is pretty cheap so I will mod mine in the 2wd Blazer for this as well as the exhaust through there as well. I guess by the time I get done with that the ECE piece may not be too expensive?? Loving it, I am a BBC guy with about 6 or 8 of them, was going 496 in the 2wd Blazer but not sure now??