wireing in new alternator!

[sam's 72]

Ok, I thought I would just go on ahead and start a new post so that I can try and keep the confussion down.
I bought a new alternator. It is internal regulated, and is a power master , 140 amps.
This is where I am at.
I bought a new connector, flat with a white and red wire comming out of it, this is the one that plugs into the alternator.
OK I have the red wire from the flat connector hooked to the blue wire from the horness, at the other end of the blue wire I have it hooked to the red wire that is comming from wireing horness.
( I believe this would be the same instead of jumping the pulg connector ....old one for external regulator )

white wire from new flat connector, is hooked to the brown wire,
( the one that goes into the plug for old external regulator )

I ran a brand new wire, from the back of the new alternator, over to the j block that is by the battery, then a new wire from j block to battery, I left the old wire hooked up to the j block, it just ties into the wireing horness on driver side,
Now the problem is, that when I have the truck started up, and turn on the lights and ac, the amp meter just falls all the way over to the left (D...SIDE) What do I have wrong? I done striped out the old horness, the old external regulator.
Sam

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Assuming you have the factory amp meter, you have by passed the circuitry that sends the signal to the amp meter. The factory amp meter gets its signal as a result of the resistance in the feed
wire. With the way you have wired your altenator directly to the battery the current from the altenator does not flow through the original wiring, hence you get a discharge reading because power is flowing from your battery to your dash/ignition, etc...

With the factory hookup, the flow of power went past both amp meter pickups, now you have eliminated that feed to the altenator.

I would refeed the alternator to the original power wire, (red #10)
that goes across the radiator support and into the bulkhead fitting. That is if you have the factory setup.

Jim

[miket]

Sam,

I am not sure where you are in this project but I rebuilt an internally regulated alternator with 105 amp parts and purchased a conversion kit for $20 or so to bypass the voltage regulator. It took less than an hour and I was done. I have provided the links for both sites below. It was virtually plug and play. I did use the 10SI alternator which is virtually the same case as the 10DN from pre-71 vehicles.


Alternator parts:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/gm_al...grade_kits.htm

Conversion kit:
http://www.wiringharness.com/custommods.htm

hope it helps.

[Mike C]

www.oldsmobilefaq.com has a good write up on converting an external regulator vehicle to internal. If that link doesn't work, google it.

[sam's 72]

ok guys, I got it!

This is how I wired it up, check out the picture in this link

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=ALternator

Then, I ran a wire from the alternator, to the fuse going to the amp meter, ( the fuse on the drivers side of radator ) and every thing is looking right, the alternator is putting out about 14.5 volts, ( checked this with a meter ) I also pulled the positive side cable off while it was running and the truck kept running. Too most of you guys this is probably a easy change over, but when I tell you guys that I don't know any thing about automotive wireing, I am not lieing to you, I wish I understood more of how it works, things would be a lot easier for me when it comes to wireing.
Thanks for all the help guys, I have a constant voltage now, my lights are not flickering any more, and my dash lights are a lot brighter,
Sam