Truck Won't Start

[Chevyholic]

Hey guys, need some troubleshooting tips. Jumped in the truck this morning and the truck wouldn't turn over. And by not turning over, I mean wouldn't even click, so the starter doesn't even sound like it is getting power. I replaced the battery because I needed a new one anyway, but same thing.

Things to note. Starter is about a 1.5 years old and I'm running a remote solenoid. All connections are clean and tight. What else should I be looking at?

Thanks!
David

[So.Cal.Super]

Have you tried Bypassing the solenoid to make sure it’s not bad? I just went through this with my neighbor’s truck and found out the solenoid was the problem. Careful this may bugger up the threads on your lugs and make it a pain to get the nuts off.

Edit* And 1.5 years for a starter doesn't matter. When I did alternators starters and batteries for a shop years ago we would do quite a few "lifetime" starters that people changed out 3 in 6 months then finally came to us. And sometimes ours would fail also. Starters and batteries are a pain. My Brother gets 6 years with a Stock motor craft. I get 1 year with an optima.

Personally I have a gear reduction in my truck now and love it. But pricey at $250.00

[Dingfodgy]

How about your ignition switch? Try jumpering from the unfused hot feed in the panel to the starter feed on the switch. That will tell you if your problem is there or somewhere downstream.

[Chevyholic]

Originally Posted by So.Cal.Super

Have you tried Bypassing the solenoid to make sure its not bad? I just went through this with my neighbors truck and found out the solenoid was the problem. Carefull this may bugger up the threads on your lugs and make it a pain to get the nuts off.

This might be it. I just ran out and jumped across the solenoid with a screwdriver and it tried to turn over...once. Tried again and nothing. Will try bypassing it and see what happens.

[Longhorn321]

Do you have a volt meter or at least a test light? Jumping the solenoid/switch and replacing parts are good quick things to try but if that leads nowhere, you need a good systematic approach. Try to find out where the power/ground is breaking down. Remember, the problem could just as easily be on the ground side as it could the power side. Did you check the grounds from the engine to chassis/neg. side of the battery?

[So.Cal.Super]

Originally Posted by Longhorn321

Do you have a volt meter or at least a test light? Jumping the solenoid/switch and replacing parts are good quick things to try but if that leads nowhere, you need a good systematic approach. Try to find out where the power/ground is breaking down. Remember, the problem could just as easily be on the ground side as it could the power side. Did you check the grounds from the engine to chassis/neg. side of the battery?

Very true. Volt meter will give you the best and grounds are just as important as power.

Check all the connections for broken terminals. I had one that had me banging my head for hours. Found out the terminal had split but because the wire was so stiff it held it in place like it looked ok until you moved it.

[420am]

Check the neutral safety switch. Shift all the way through the gears a couple of times and try it again. My truck does that sometimes. It goes into park and doesn't quite know that it's in park and won't start. Lights don't dim, no click.. nadda.

[Chevyholic]

Originally Posted by Longhorn321

Do you have a volt meter or at least a test light? Jumping the solenoid/switch and replacing parts are good quick things to try but if that leads nowhere, you need a good systematic approach. Try to find out where the power/ground is breaking down. Remember, the problem could just as easily be on the ground side as it could the power side. Did you check the grounds from the engine to chassis/neg. side of the battery?

Yes, I have both and will run through the electrical side from ignition to starter to see where I'm buggering. The entire electrical needs replacing, but will have to wait until the temperatures get down to the point I can stand to be outside for longer than 10 minutes.

Thanks for all the help!
David

[lks dcvn]

with 420am - had a similar problem...give that a shot - or find neutral and then try it again.

[Longhorn Man]

there is no need to jump the solenoid now, you already did, and you now know the starter, battery, and all heavy guage battery cables are working. You know the ground is good too.
Now, you need to find out why the purple wire that goes from the ignition switch, to the neutral safety switch (if it's an automatic) and then to the solenoid isn't getting power when you turn the key.

[Longhorn321]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

there is no need to jump the solenoid now, you already did, and you now know the starter, battery, and all heavy guage battery cables are working. You know the ground is good too.
Now, you need to find out why the purple wire that goes from the ignition switch, to the neutral safety switch (if it's an automatic) and then to the solenoid isn't getting power when you turn the key.

He said that when he tried jumping it the second time he got nothing.

[Chevyholic]

Originally Posted by Longhorn321

He said that when he tried jumping it the second time he got nothing.

True, and checked with the meter that I'm getting 12v to the line in on the solenoid, but there is nothing when jumping across, so I'm thinking the solenoid is fried.

Even eliminating the ignition, I should get something when jumping across the solenoid, right? This is the first time I've used the remote solenoid, so I'm not sure how long those should last, but I've only had this one about a year and a half.

[Longhorn Man]

I bet if he tried again it'd work.
Very common to not get a good enough contact. Anyone who has done it a lot should know.
What kind of tool are you jumping it with?

[Longhorn321]

Originally Posted by Chevyholic

True, and checked with the meter that I'm getting 12v to the line in on the solenoid, but there is nothing when jumping across, so I'm thinking the solenoid is fried.

Even eliminating the ignition, I should get something when jumping across the solenoid, right? This is the first time I've used the remote solenoid, so I'm not sure how long those should last, but I've only had this one about a year and a half.

When you say 12V on the line in...are you referring to the one from the battery or the one from the ignition switch (purple wire)?

It shouldn't matter if the solenoid is fried if you are jumping the two big wires.

[VetteVet]

Here is a diagram of a common remote solenoid hook-up. Remember that the original starter solenoid has to be in the circuit and in working order to engage the contacts inside the solenoid that feeds the starter motor. The S terminal on it must get a full 12 volts for this to happen so it may be a bad connection there or the starter solenoid may be bad. If you run a jumper wire to the S terminal on the starter solenoid from a hot post from the battery the solenoid should at least click. The I terminal on the remote solenoid in the diagram would need to be grounded in order for this type solenoid to work.


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[420am]

Did you try the neutral safety switch?

Not trying to harp on about it.. just hoping that's all it is.