? on power brakes to manual brakes conversion.

[68gmsee]

A friend called me and wanted to know what he needed to convert his 69 truck back to manual brakes until he can afford a new booster. He has drums all around. I converted both of mine to power brakes many years ago and don't remember what's needed.

Anyone out there with a parts break down or picture of the brake pedal linkage?

May have to weld one up if we can't locate one. Thanx.

[LOW DOUGH]

you have to get a manual master cylinder and take off the power master & booster & booster bracket and put on the maual cylinder. That is all.

I don't remember if you have to change the rod or not to do the manual to power convertion. I know you are going the other way around. I did the manual to power a few years ago.

Oh, and BLEED THEM. Starting with the right rear and moving to left rear then the right front and left front.

Don't forget to bench bleed the master.


So, does that sound right to everyone else?

[68gmsee]

Thanks Low Dough...

Booster is off, and all the external parts he has already. Just need to know what's neede from master cylinder to brake pedal. The connecting rod is different length.

A picture would help if someone has one. If not a parts break down would do. I did a search and couldn't find anything.

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

A picture would help if someone has one. If not a parts break down would do. I did a search and couldn't find anything.

Here is a picture of both power/non-power pedal push rods side by side, hope that helps.

[LOW DOUGH]

Oh yeah... they have to be diff because the power has that bracket that has the pivot in it.

DUUUUUUUUUUU I forgot

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Classic Bowties

Here is a picture of both power/non-power pedal push rods side by side, hope that helps.

Exactly what I needed. I figured that it was one long link but wasn't sure. I guess I'm going to have to weld him up one since the spare one I have is a short piece.

Thanks for the help.

Edit: you wouldn't happen to know how long the link is for the manual one by any chance?

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

you wouldn't happen to know how long the link is for the manual one by any chance?

Overall length is 10" from end to end as it sit's pictured/adjusted above, or 9 & 1/2" from center of cross bolt to the tip of ball end.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Classic Bowties

Overall length is 10" from end to end as it sit's pictured/adjusted above, or 9 & 1/2" from center of cross bolt to the tip of ball end.

Thanks much.. Really helps.

[Longhorn Man]

there is no need to replace the master cylinder. It is the same part number manual or power.
So there is no need to break open the lines, nor bleeding.
Remove the master from the booster, support it with a bunge cord or something, remove the booster, remove the pushrod from the pedal.
Instal the new pushrod to the other hole on the brake pedal arm, and botl the master to the firewall being careful not to kink the lines.

[LOW DOUGH]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

It is the same part number manual or power.

Hay Andy, I was thinking they were probably the same master. Should have looked it up. That makes it way easyer.

[Longhorn Man]

for most aplications, the master is not the same p/n for manual and power brakes.
As a matter of fact, these trucks are the only vehicles I am aware of that are like this. So in general speaking, you were right. But, not in this particular aplication.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

there is no need to replace the master cylinder. It is the same part number manual or power.
So there is no need to break open the lines, nor bleeding.
Remove the master from the booster, support it with a bunge cord or something, remove the booster, remove the pushrod from the pedal.
Instal the new pushrod to the other hole on the brake pedal arm, and botl the master to the firewall being careful not to kink the lines.

That's exactly what found out. We left it unopen and the brake lines held it firmly in place being careful not to bend them too much.

Welded an extension to lengthen the rod and worked like a champ. They worked so well, he's thinking of staying with the manual brakes.

Mine are all drum and I also converted to power brakes. I'm thinking of going back to manual if I don't convert to disk brakes. These tend to lock up too easy when I have to stop all of a sudden.