HEI Replacement on 69-ish 292

[thefatguy]

OK, so yesterday, after determining just what the heck kind of engine I've got in The Winter Project, I did a lot of reading, and it seems to be the general consensus that swapping out the original distributor (points-type) for an HEI unit of some sort is a smart thing to do. There's an excellent thread on the actual doing of the replacement that I've bookmarked, so I feel pretty well covered from that end.

However, I'm interested in recommendations on aftermarket suppliers for the HEI itself, rather than a rebuild or swap-over. I'm quite unsure on just where I'm going with this silly thing, but I know I want reliability over performance (today, anyway, and it is an I-6.) I know I'd like some kind of warranty, even if it's only 90 days, too.

So, if you've done this replacement using an aftermarket kit, I'd appreciate knowing how you feel about the brand you bought, and what you might do different if you did it again.

[bean]

Personally, I used the petronix kit to eliminate the points. Put it in about 3 years or so ago and haven't had a problem at all. Very easy install as well. Just a suggestion.

[Brad]

I'd recommend just going to a jy and getting the cheapest HEI you can, replacing the module, stab it in, and go! You can spend $120 or more on a brand new distributor and module or you can spend 1/2 that or less and get the exact same performance. Just my .02

[Shyguy]

Like you I finally figured out what engine I have in my '67 short stepper.

I was told it was a 292 out of newer than '68 truck. After research and the help members of this board I have determined it is 250 out of '72 Chevelle.

It has a stock HEI out of a l6 about '78 vintage and runs great.

Danny

[Fred T]

HEI is the only way to fly. The only drawback is the big cap. Here is a link to a rebuild for a decent price. The seller is well-respected and a big supporter of inliners.org

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/aca...?productid=125

I will recommend going with an external coil, such as the MSD Blaster 2 or one specifically made for the HEI.

[Brad]

That looks like a good deal except you'll be able to spend the same amount at any parts store in your neighborhood and get the same thing. Just get an HEI from a '73-'78 C-10, Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, etc with a 250.

The big cap (coil in cap design) is only a drawback if you plan on going with A/C. Otherwise there are absolutely no problems with it, in fact it'll clean up the underhood appearance of your engine.

[low'n slow]

Yep, parts board or ebay, change the cap, rotor and get new wires and you're done. Don't forget to run the new wire.

[PanelDeland]

I did cap,rotor and wires.I bought it from a JY for $25.00 and put it in in about 30 min.I spent more time finding and getting that danged terminal end for the terminal block than all the rest of it put together.I didn't change the module though I would have.I just thought I would stick it in a see what happened before I made a parts run.It fired up better than with the points and I timed it.It hasn't given a bit of trouble or missed any so I just ran it.

[Brad]

The only reason I'd change the module (I like Bosch) is that it'll give you the piece of mind in knowing the new one won't break down on you. I always carry a spare since I've had 2 go out on me over the years, and I'd put the 'old' one as a spare.

[thefatguy]

Great advice, folks, and much appreciated. I have a couple of questions:

- "Don't forget to run the new wire."
I'm guessing that means new wire for everything distributor-related? What gauge is recommended? I'll definitely be re-reading the thread linked above for hints and tips. I know I need new spark plug wires, as well, right?

- "change the module"
I've got an HEI with an internal coil in my 78, and don't remember a module? Maybe that's because it was already there somewhere and I just didn't know? So, what module, and where?

As you might guess, I'm a complete dolt and just getting my feet wet with stuff I've always wanted to do, but never had time for.

[Luvlegs]

regap the plugs too... I went to .045 I believe.

[Willys47]

I have tried to do this and the HEI cap is too big and will not rotate once it is installed, I recomend a putronics points replacement to get the same results and less trouble with the pulling and reinstalling of the disributores. the 292 has a taller lifter cover area that makes the motor taller and this is what causes this problem

[MudBug]

I got a Distrb. out of a 70's model truck, change the cap, rotor, model, coil, and wires.Worked great with about .045 gap on plugs. Really woke the motor up

[Brad]

Originally Posted by Willys47

I have tried to do this and the HEI cap is too big and will not rotate once it is installed, I recomend a putronics points replacement to get the same results and less trouble with the pulling and reinstalling of the disributores. the 292 has a taller lifter cover area that makes the motor taller and this is what causes this problem

Huh??? The distributor has nothing in the way like a V8/firewall. Are you sure you're on the right thread? No disrespect meant, I just don't follow your argument whatsoever.

[Brad]

Originally Posted by thefatguy

Great advice, folks, and much appreciated. I have a couple of questions:

- "Don't forget to run the new wire."
I'm guessing that means new wire for everything distributor-related? What gauge is recommended? I'll definitely be re-reading the thread linked above for hints and tips. I know I need new spark plug wires, as well, right?

- "change the module"
I've got an HEI with an internal coil in my 78, and don't remember a module? Maybe that's because it was already there somewhere and I just didn't know? So, what module, and where?

As you might guess, I'm a complete dolt and just getting my feet wet with stuff I've always wanted to do, but never had time for.

There's a module under all HEI's and it's the same regardless of whether you have a V8 or L6. Look under the cap & rotor. It's about 1"x3". However, no disrespect meant, but maybe you should read up alot more before tackling this.

[thefatguy]

maybe you should read up alot more before tackling this

No question...that's what I'm doing here.

[70rs/ss]

The 292 is different than the 250 and I think the other poster meant the 292 and big cap hei interfere? A good used hei is a great way to help that 292 feel its oats, and the 292 is a prime hot rod motor in the world of L6's. If you just plan to run it, do a JY swap and get a hei hop up kit from summit, they sell the cap/rotor and module all in one for a decent price, some kits come with a new coil as well.

[2bits]

I believe willys47 may be talking about the cap hotting the side of the engine, mine is very close and rubs the fuel line a little and I think if was installed "just right" using the big cap, it could be positioned to where the port for the wires are right next to the engine preventing it from rotating.

There are actually two stock caps available, the standard style with the coil in the cap, and there is another style (presumably for engines with AC like mine). Where the coil is outside the cap. (Yes is it electronic ignition). I just got it at the regular auto parts store. You will need to remove the coil and mount it to the side of the engine. I found a bracket at a junkyard but you can make one too.

LITTLE CAP:


BIG CAP:

[Willys47]

Originally Posted by 2bits

I believe willys47 may be talking about the cap hotting the side of the engine, mine is very close and rubs the fuel line a little and I think if was installed "just right" using the big cap, it could be positioned to where the port for the wires are right next to the engine preventing it from rotating.

There are actually two stock caps available, the standard style with the coil in the cap, and there is another style (presumably for engines with AC like mine). Where the coil is outside the cap. (Yes is it electronic ignition). I just got it at the regular auto parts store. You will need to remove the coil and mount it to the side of the engine. I found a bracket at a junkyard but you can make one too.

LITTLE CAP:


BIG CAP:

thank you that is what I was trying to say I didn't know of a short cap and may try this set up again

[thefatguy]

Well, yall have given me plenty to start thinking about. I appreciate all the advice, and I'm definitely willing to listen to more.

[Frizzle Fry]

Just got my 6cyl HEI in the mail today

['68OrangeSunshine]

I'm still running points on my 292 and happy with it [and a Mallory Voltmaster coil], but I do have a Pertronix Ignitor II kit standing by. Not knocking HEI, I have that on the V8 350 in my other truck, a '71 Jimmy.
I have as yet to acquire an L6 HEI for the '68 Stepside.
One note on HEI install: you must disconnect the yellow wire from the coil and replace it with a 10 gauge wire going from the terminal block IGN UNFUSED to the positive terminal on the HEI cap. The old yellow wire is coupled to a heat -reactive white/purple/orange wire that drops voltage to the coil when it heats up. This helps points from burning out -- going from 12VDC to 9 - 7 Volts, but is very bad for the HEI module. That system must have a full 12 volts at all times when running, or you burn up the module.

[GMC Jim]

Missing from all the above discussion------- The advance curve for most engines designed for HEI can be quite different than your engine.... By all means, have the HEI weights and springs adjusted to match the ignition curve for the engine that the HEI will be installed on. Shops that have a distributor machine will match the curve for your engine...This will then give maximum performance and fuel economy.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by GMC Jim

Missing from all the above discussion------- The advance curve for most engines designed for HEI can be quite different than your engine.... By all means, have the HEI weights and springs adjusted to match the ignition curve for the engine that the HEI will be installed on. Shops that have a distributor machine will match the curve for your engine...This will then give maximum performance and fuel economy.

I bought a kit from crane to do just that; springs and an adjustable vac canister.

[GMC Jim]

Frizzle; I have heard about the Crane kits used for setting the centrifugal advance curve...However, I don't see how one can get the proper curve for the higher RPM's. For instance the specs on a 1971 402 engine are in partial: 16 degrees @ 2400 engine RPM and 30 degrees at 4400 engine RPM. Your engine would be literally screaming at that RPM !!!...I suppose one could plot the curve on graph paper and compute the degrees for the RPM's between 2400 and 4400.
Also, one will need an accurate tach and a vacuum gauge to complete the advance settings of centrifugal and vacuum advance...