Do I need all of these vacuum lines?

[chemsearch]

I have an 86 k10 with a 305. I have already found a couple leaking vacuum lines, and was wondering what vacuum lines/switches and things i could get rid of, by plugging lines, bypassing switches, etc. I already bypassed the temp sensitive switch that connects to the EGR valve, bleed solenoid, and evap canister purge. It seems like their are several other basically unnecessary lines, that attach to the heat riser, etc... I'm willing to sacrifice a little time waiting for the truck to warm up in order to get rid of some vacuum lines, as thats what many of these things seem to effect. Thanks to anyone with any input at all, cause i haven't been able to find anything helpful so far. -- Tom

[72 CustomCamper]

I know that here in Va all of them have to be hooked up to pass state inspection and emissions. I had to go to the library to find the proper vacuum line diargam for my dad's 84...


Chuck

[chevy2ss]

What are these emmisions you speak of???

[79gmcsierragrande]

Vacuum hoses are like $.35-$1.00 a foot and fittings are around $1.35 ea. Why not spend $20.00 and a couple of hours and have your truck run right?

[chemsearch]

I know i could have everything hooked up right easily enough, its just that this truck is in awful shape, and at least a few of the vacuum parts are broken, causing the truck to run worse. at the same time, I really just want to be rid of as much of this unneccessary stuff as possible, just to clean things up under the hood.

[Corts60]

Just a note: Be careful that also besides emissions, you could be sacrificing fuel economy too by removing vacuum lines...

I'm the kinda guy that likes to have my engine running top notch, no matter what the outside looks like. Just my two cents...

[chemsearch]

my engine is running far from top notch right now, and i honestly think that bypassing a lot of the vacuum valves and the like would help it to run better

[Square84]

i did away with all but three. the one from the brake booster, the one from the transmission modulator valve, and the one from the vacuum advance on the distributer. but i also replace the intake with an edelbrock, and the carb with an edelbrock. and put headers on. so not much need for them.

[Albatrossian]

I have one vacuum line on mine.. from the carb to vacuum advance. No power brakes and a 700R4.
Runs fine.. but I'm in south GA, they don't do emissions testing down here. With you in Jersey, you might have to have all those lines hooked up and working correctly. I'd ask a local shop or inspector just exactly what you need to pass.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

LOL yea what are emissions tests don't have none of that up here. I would just replace the ones that you really need and bypass the rest of them!

[chemsearch]

thanks guys, this is what i wanted to hear. im gonna talk to a guy i know at a local shop that does inspections, and see what he says, maybe he can even help me out a little

[chemsearch]

square 84, how do you have the distributor advance and trans mod. valve hooked up, using the original temp. valves, or bypassed somehow?

[Square84]

Originally Posted by chemsearch

square 84, how do you have the distributor advance and trans mod. valve hooked up, using the original temp. valves, or bypassed somehow?

no i run an edelbrock carb and it has the ports on the front of it. i went to the parts store and got a therm housing for a 75 chevy to get rid of the ported vacuum switch and this way it would look cleaner with no pipe plug in it.