Ignition Switch Actuator Rack

[spoon]

Hey. The ignition switch actuator rack (pictured) busted in my '80 Silverado (tilt wheel). I am in the process of dissassembling the entire steering column, which is proving to be a pain(sic). I have seen some listed online but I am hesitant to purchase because I am afraid that they will take forever to ship. Also, if you have any tips/tricks/advice, feel free to chime in here.

Thanks so much!

[firedrag79]

I had to replace that same part about 7 or 8 years ago. I remember it being a real pain as well. I was able to get the part from the chevy dealer.

[f.monroe]

The little part you are changing is at the end of the tear down process . I wish you were closer , I would repair it for you since I have the pin puller and locking plate press . I used to repair columns in vehicles for side money . Take pictures as it comes apart if you have any questions about reassembly . As far as the parts go , I usually buy things like that at the dealer .
Frank

[Square84]

you can get that at any parts store in the help section as far as pulling the pins get you some m4x.7 bolts and a dent puller which you can rent at any parts store. should take 2 or 3 taps and they'll be out as far as reassembly just tap the in with a hammer. advice: the 4 screws that hold the upper column to the lower column should be inverted torx screws pull them one at a time and put some lock tight on them.

[jeffspower]

Be sure to tighten all 4 tilt pivot mounting bolts while you are in there. It takes a torx socket on most of them- an E2, I think.

[spoon]

Thanks for the replies fellas! I just need to source out one of those actuator racks and then I'll be in business. This just HAD to happen the day I get my new motor finally fired up (if you guys remember the ordeal I had with the siezed engine). *sigh*

[spoon]

Finished. Big thanks to this link right here ---> http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html

Man what a pain that was!

[Gabeasorus]

Say, I'm pretty sure I'm having a similar problem with my tilt column...
My key will turn to what should be the start position but won't turn the starter and won't spring back to run.
When this happened I was leaving work and after a few tries, it turned over but I've had no luck since I got it home.
Does the actuator rack seem to be the the cause of this or will I have to dig deeper? (crossing fingers)

[MylilBowTie]

I would say take a look at the ignition switch.

The pivot pin tool is like 10 dollars at most parts stores in the tool section. If you are all the way down that far. Get some blue loctight and use it on the four mounting bolts. Also a 7mm socket will work if you don't have a reverse torx bit.

[piecesparts]

I had that break on me, while I was on the Hot Rod Power Tour. Had to start truck with a screw driver and the switch hanging under the dash for the next 5 days. The part that you broke should still be available at the GM dealerships--that is where I got mine and that part is common on many different coumns.

You can replace it with the column in the truck and all you will have to do is loosen the wiring harness to allow that housing to slide up so that you can change it out. The pivot pins and the tilt does not have to be disassembled. DID it not to long ago.

[Gabeasorus]

Nice, now if we could just get a "cool" day out here in Texas or maybe get rid of these mosquitos for a night...

Thanks guys, should get this thing worked out by next week!

[spoon]

Originally Posted by Gabeasorus

Say, I'm pretty sure I'm having a similar problem with my tilt column...
My key will turn to what should be the start position but won't turn the starter and won't spring back to run.
When this happened I was leaving work and after a few tries, it turned over but I've had no luck since I got it home.
Does the actuator rack seem to be the the cause of this or will I have to dig deeper? (crossing fingers)

The actuator rack is pretty much as deep as you can get into the steering column, sorry to say. It'll be a few hours worth of work (most of that time will be spent figuring out how it all goes back together) if this is your first teardown.

[Gabeasorus]

So... what do I do if I lost the locking ring? When I pried it out, it flew into the grass

[spoon]

You need that thing pal! That little bent piece of metal is what holds everything in place... without it the spring, plate, and bearings all come loose. Check in the HELP! section of your local parts house.

Get a metal detector... it couldn't have possibly gone that far.

EDIT: I just noticed that you got the actual tool for that job! I wish I had it... my hands looked like hamburger meat by the time I was done with that plate! >.<

[COMP]

you can try a magnet

[MylilBowTie]

Those snap rings are supposed to be replaced every time it comes apart. I have gotten away with reusing them but its not recommended.

The lock plate removal tool is pretty cheap and well worth the cost. Its not even thought of ever not using one again.

Did find this: Upper shaft retaining ring, 45349N from year one. The HELP section my also have them.

[andresco50]

I used this info for replace my lock cylinder is awesome because talks about tilt steering, maybe this could help you too,!!

http://www.buickperformance.com/tilt...lumnwobble.htm

[Gabeasorus]

Originally Posted by spoon

Get a metal detector... it couldn't have possibly gone that far.

EDIT: I just noticed that you got the actual tool for that job! I wish I had it... my hands looked like hamburger meat by the time I was done with that plate! >.<

Neither myself or my neighbors have a metal detector. I'll try the HELP section but if that doesn't pan out, I think I'll talk to one of the hundreds of roofers that are working in my neighborhood thanks to Ike and see about running one of those magnets on wheels through the yard they use to pick up loose nails!!


As far as the locking plate, thats a pic from the el camino teardown mentioned earlier. But I DID end up going to rent one. Pretty darn handy.



However... I did get down to the actuator rack, the sector, and spring, all look intact. I followed the actuator rod to the switch itself and am going to replace it here in a few. Hopefully that thats the problem.

See, I'm not getting a contact when I turn the key to start and theres no spring back either. It's not even trying to turn the engine over. I figured the actuator rack was the problem but its not broken and moves the rod forward and back just fine. Seeing as how the new ignition switch was only $9, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks!!

[Gabeasorus]

So...

I put it back together (well, minus the steeringwheel) and still nothing! I replaced the ignition switch (the switch itself, not the key cylinder) and turned the key and... the same symptoms. Accys turned on, no turn of the starter and no spring-back @ the key. BUT, it will start with a pair of needle nose.

I think my problem is the key cylinder. Any thoughts?

[spoon]

What are you grabbing with the needlenose to get it to start? Do you have the key in the ignition at the same time as using the needlenose?

[Gabeasorus]

Originally Posted by spoon

What are you grabbing with the needlenose to get it to start? Do you have the key in the ignition at the same time as using the needlenose?

The needle nose are in place of the key cylinder. They're grabbing the rod that is between the cylinder and the sector.

[piecesparts]

You do understand that the key cylinder is just that, and nothing else, don't you? The whole assembly is the ignition. The ignition switch mechanism is adjustable (down there on the column). It has two small bolts/screws that hold it to the column, but the assembly slides along the steering column a little, to allow for the proper engagement of the start contacts. So loosen the nuts on the column mounts to the bottom of the dash panel lower the column once again and loosen the small bolts, slide the ignition module towards the firewall and then tighten them again. My guess is that you have the thing together but not in adjustment.

[Gabeasorus]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

You do understand that the key cylinder is just that, and nothing else, don't you? The whole assembly is the ignition. The ignition switch mechanism is adjustable (down there on the column). It has two small bolts/screws that hold it to the column, but the assembly slides along the steering column a little, to allow for the proper engagement of the start contacts. So loosen the nuts on the column mounts to the bottom of the dash panel lower the column once again and loosen the small bolts, slide the ignition module towards the firewall and then tighten them again. My guess is that you have the thing together but not in adjustment.

True, but the cylinder also has moving parts which the rest of the assembly rely on to work properly.

Exhibit A:

This is the original cylinder, see the shiny "tooth" sitting at about 2 o'clock? My thought was that this thing moves and should travel the whole allotted distance from 1 to 5 o'clock. It will move allowing me to start the accys but it seemed to be jammed where it is in the picture.




Exhibit B:

This is the new cylinder I bought this morning. The "tooth" actually travels the whole allotted distance allowing the actuator rod to engage the ignition switch. (Which it did!)



You do raise a good point Pieces and I will look into adjusting the ignition switch itself as to avoid future headaches.

Thanks for help everyone. I'd still be on the driveway scratching my head about this one otherwise.