Wanted 10" Springs for 85 Suburban

[Ryan Flowers]

I am looking for a set of 10" rear springs or a complete 10" Lift system (No Blocks) for a 85 Suburban.

Thanks,

[BAD4X4]

If it has 56'' long springs the tallest they make on the mkt is 6'' ones. I have a 86 1-Ton with a 10'' lift and 39.5 swampers. National spring can build you a set for about $1000.00 for the rear only.

[1FaastC10]

get the 6" springs and a shackle flip, that should give you 10"

[Ryan Flowers]

Thanks,

I have a 6" lift on my 85 right now. This weekend I bought a 90 and I also bought a pair of 3/4 Ton axles with 4:10 Ratio. I would like to get a 10" spring lift and bring it all together on the 90 Suburban.

Bad4x4: How did you go about doing the 10" lift on yor 1 ton?

1faastc10: I will have to look into the shackles.

[BAD4X4]

I used superlift 10"springs in the front and 6" tuff country rear spring with a 2"block. Do not do a shackle lift, they suck. Trust me, I've had lots of trucks on 38 and above tires. Springs are the way to go, I know it's more money but if you are going to use you truck it is well worth it in the long run. Here's some pics to help you.

[Ryan Flowers]

BAD4X4,

What size tires would you recommend? I am not looking for a monster truck and I don't want a body lift. I am looking for something with good ground clearance to get me in and out of the woods.

Thanks,
Ryan

[NAPCO ken]

Here is my Suburban with 12" National springs front and rear, with 39.5" Swampers on 12" wide Welds....

[Ryan Flowers]

NAPCO Ken,

That is one good looking Suburban! I think spring lifts look so much cleaner than blocks. I think I could handle going 12". What all did you have to change or alter to go 12"? (brake lines, drive shafts, sway bars ect.) Is that a daily driver? Have you seen any problems with the truck after going that high? I know I am asking alot of questions but I want to make sure I do this right. I did my 6" lift and replaced all the brake lines and steering arm and had no problems but later did extend my back drive shaft.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Ryan Flowers]

It is an 85 GMC Suburban. I hit a deer going about 60 and had to replace the radiator, oil cooler, all oil and water lines, core support, right fender, right battery and the front grill. I ordered it for a GMC but when it arrived it had a bow tie on it. My 90 is all GMC.



Ryan

[BAD4X4]

I run 39.5 super swampers on 12"wide weld typhoons with 1 ton running gear with 5:13 gears. The Dana 60 up front gives you about 1/2 inch more lift as well.

If you run 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton I would run 38" tires with a 10"lift.

In my experience anything over 12 inches of lift can be very expensive and it starts to put a lot of stress on the vehicle. As the tires get bigger it gets harder on the frame and then gears also become an issue, not to mention the need for more horsepower.

Anyway, hope this helps, feel free to e-mail me with more questions, I've done quite a few lifts in trucks.

blakos@oregontrail.net

Dana

[1FaastC10]

Originally posted by BAD4X4
Do not do a shackle lift, they suck. Trust me, I've had lots of trucks on 38 and above tires. Springs are the way to go, I know it's more money but if you are going to use you truck it is well worth it in the long run. Here's some pics to help you.

sure, spring lifts are great... just hope you dont like the fillings in your teeth. with a spring lift that big, the springs get very stiff. also, if you plan to use the vehicle offroad at all the shackle flip will add some articulation to the rear.

as for where to find the shackle flip... go to ColoradoK5.com, and talk to EchoBit.

here's a pic of an 84 K10 with 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, and 35s on 15x10 wheels. just about perfect if you ask me.

[1FaastC10]

BTW, 6" shackle flip in the rear, 6" Skyjacker Softride springs up front.

[NAPCO ken]

Ryan, Yes this Suburban is one of my daily drivers! I am now running 44" tires on 14" wide Welds. The 12" springs are Nationals with 11 thin leaves in each. They ride better than any 4" softride spring out there and flex even better. I had to extend the front shackles to keep the spring eye from hitting the frame, and then put in a corresponding shim under the front springs to retain the caster angle. My rear shaft had to be lengthened, but amazingly doesn't vibrate or eat u-joints, it is a standard u-jointed shaft on each end, no CV. Brake lines were extended of course. Steering is crossover using Parts Mike arms ($60 pitman; $100 steering) a Parts Mike custom drag link ($129), and a used 2WD steering box. The steering is now tighter than when the truck was at a stock height! Crossover steering is a must-do. I'd recommend dual stabilizers to fend off the death-wobble that seems inherent in any crossover steering system with high lift and large tires. I long-ago took off the sway bar...actually on all three of my trucks that had them. I do not notice a difference without the sway bar. The only thing negative I noticed with a truck that high is that you cannot see small cars next to you when driving, so you have to make an extra effort to insure no one is next to you when changing lanes! Oh, and on the front shaft, I had High-Angle driveline make me a CV shaft that is capable of 35 degrees...in the static mode, the shaft runs at 25 degrees. Good luck on your lift, and I'd recommend buying National springs so you have a good ride and flex.

[chris672]

Originally posted by BAD4X4
Do not do a shackle lift, they suck.

Shackle lift and shackle flip are different. ORD also makes a shackle flip. They allow you to use a flatter spring which usually means a softer ride. www.offroaddesign.com

[Ryan Flowers]

Here is a coulple of questions.

Axle wrap? The reason I wanted to stick with the springs is to avoid axle wrap that you get with Blocks.

Does Shakle flip or lifts cause any kind of axle wrap?

I found a Swamp Runner 10" system (Front & Rear Springs, Steering Arm, break lines and shocks) for $1,300.00 This is a new system from the store. But I keep hearing alot about "cross over steering". I am puting the 3/4 Ton axles under the 90 GMC and although this is not a mud truck and it is a daily driver, I will be putting it in the woods when hunting and fishing. Should I, and what all is involved in doing a "Cross Over Steering"?

[NAPCO ken]

I can't answer the shackle flip/lift causing axle wrap question, but I do know that lift blocks accentuate the problem. I have zero spring wrap with my 12" Nationals.

You should definitely do the cross over steering, which is recommended for anything over 8" lift. You can get by with using a 4" steering arm, a 4" dropped drag-link and/or a 2" pitman arm on the stock driver's side steering. Your steering will be no where near as tight and true as with a crossover system. If you do decide to run crossover on your 3/4 ton axle, you will need to install a "flat-top" passenger side knuckle (available on pre-'76 GM trucks). These are available through Parts Mike for a nominal fee.

Good luck.

[Ryan Flowers]

NAPCO Ken,

I have decided to go with the 10" Spring lift on the 90 GMC! Now I just have to figure out this cross over steering thing. Once I get all of the components, (how hard on a scale of 1-10) is it to install. Will I need a machine shop to machine anything or will the pre-76 knuckle do the trick?

Thanks,

[NAPCO ken]

You will need to drill and tap three holes in the flat-top knuckle. I recommend you call Parts Mike (#530-885-0673) and ask him for the parts you need. Also, check his website (www.partsmike.com) to see what he has to offer for crossover steering. I'm telling you it is WELL worth the trouble and is not expensive...at least, not expensive from Mike, but from others: FUHGEDDABOWTIT!!!

[Ryan Flowers]

NAPCO Ken,

I will call Parts Mike Monday. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks,