high beam switch not working

[Stitch]

when I pull back on the high beam switch on the column, it does nothing ...the high beams are on all the time, and although it doesn't bother anyone because they aren't bright enough, it bothers me that they won't go to low beams...the switch worked when I first bought the truck, but one day it just stopped working ...I live in the country so high beams are a must, but I work in town, so I really need the low beams to work right also...is it just a matter of switching out my turn signal lever, because it needs to be changed too, or is it something more than that...just want to know before I get into it...

also, the door pin switch for the driver's door doesn't work...I bought a new one that requires a male bullet style connector on the wire and when I took the old one out there where two spade connectors on it...do I need to just cut the spade connectors off and put a bullet connector on it or is there a different door in that'll except the two spade connectors...

thanks for the help...stupid questions, but I'm just trying to figure things out before I do them

Chuck.

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Your dimmer switch is mounted to the lower left side of the steering column behind the dash. There is an actuator rod running from the turn signal switch to the dimmer switch.
When I get home tonight I'll post an exploded view of the column for you to look at.

The G.M. Part # for it is 26019661 and retails for about $30.00

Your semi-online parts man, Dave

[Stitch]

any idea about the door pin switch....

btw, thanks for the info on the high beam switch

Chuck

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Forgot to grab the exploded view from work and I missed the part about the door jam switch. Will look up the part number for it tomorrow at work and let you know.

[Stitch]

thanks alot...I really appreciate the help...

Chuck

[78 Chevyrado]

I had a similar problem on my old '87. On mine it turned out to be the contacts inside had basically welded together and stuck on high beams. I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts and put some die-electric grease inside of it and had no more problems.

[BLE 'BURBAN]

The proper door jamb switch part number from G.M. is 15693389.
I've got 3 of them in stock at work but I forgot to get the price of it!

[Stitch]

well, while I had the door switch out to replace, I cleaned it up when I found out I didn't have the right one and now it works like a dream...seems like you just gotta clean the gunk off of some stuff sometimes on a classic truck and then it's fine...

and also, the high beam switch may just be welded together...gotta pull it out and check...the reason I think this is because I changed the headlight switch because my headlights wouldn't come on, but the parking lights would...when I pulled the plug off the back it was melted a little...so maybe it welded the high beam switch too...dunno...gotta pull it out and check it...maybe I'll do that tomorrow...thanks for the info guys...I'll tell ya what the problem with the switch was...

Chuck.

[1BadC10]

Originally Posted by Fat Hoe

well, while I had the door switch out to replace, I cleaned it up when I found out I didn't have the right one and now it works like a dream...seems like you just gotta clean the gunk off of some stuff sometimes on a classic truck and then it's fine...

and also, the high beam switch may just be welded together...gotta pull it out and check...the reason I think this is because I changed the headlight switch because my headlights wouldn't come on, but the parking lights would...when I pulled the plug off the back it was melted a little...so maybe it welded the high beam switch too...dunno...gotta pull it out and check it...maybe I'll do that tomorrow...thanks for the info guys...I'll tell ya what the problem with the switch was...

Chuck.

I had the exact same problem two weeks ago. Fixed it last weekend. It's referred to as a dimmer switch (I dunno why, but guessing the term "hi/lo beam switch" was too much to say/print in a manual ). After a trip to the closest parts store (& $24 later), the part was swapped in a matter of minutes. I will say it's not EASILY accessible, but with an open-ended wrench, it's not as difficult/tedious as replacing an ignition lock switch. Found the old switch didn't "click" anymore, and the harness connector was slightly melted. Guess 22 years of service was all it could handle.