Frame ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

DJ72CHEVY · 11-17-2008, 01:11 PM

My frame is in pretty good shape. If there is minimal or normal rust between the cab supports, or crossmembers and the frame, is there any need to remove them and use bolts to put them back on? And, are the original rivits better (stronger) than the bolts?

Ram-Man · 11-17-2008, 03:09 PM

I wouldnt pull any of the riveted parts apart unless you have to. As for the strength of them pull a couple apart and you will have pretty good respect for those rivets.

blukangoo · 11-17-2008, 03:42 PM

The only thing I know that is stronger than rivets is welding.

DJ72CHEVY · 11-17-2008, 06:25 PM

Thanks, I will leave them alone.

chas350 · 11-17-2008, 08:49 PM

Hey DJ, What gives the rivet strength is the tight fit achieved from the swage/peening when it is installed. These are tough to remove. I grind one side off flush and then drive them out with a stout drift and BFH. You will notice a 3/8" bolt fits loosley, do not use them! Even grade 8.
I personally don't trust this, because if bolt to part fit isn't tight, it will eventually loosen and slot the frame/part holes resulting in failure. So what I have done is drill out the frame and part (crossmember,mount, etc) with a 7/16" drill being carefull to not enlarge it with a sloppy drill job. Then pick up some grade 8 fine thread 7/16" bolts, nuts and washers and you will be all set. Just make sure the nuts and washers are grade 8 also, and torque them to 70lbs.
If your really worried about it you can go up to 1/2"

This is plenty strong enough to trust IMO.
chas

DJ72CHEVY · 11-18-2008, 12:42 PM

Thanks Chas,

The frame is in good shape, I will leave it alone, unless I decide to shorten it.

14U2NV · 11-18-2008, 04:40 PM

OK, so the PO of my blazer went the 3/8 route and I had considered going to the 7/16th bolt. I still was leary about that. If I square everything up good and watch the heat, do you guys think it might be better to just weld up the frame?

chas350 · 11-18-2008, 08:19 PM

DJ, dont let that rust go!

NV
I have heard that welding frames can lead to cracks.
What are we considering to weld? cab mount, cross member, spring hanger,etc? Its hard to help with out more info.
chas

14U2NV · 11-18-2008, 08:55 PM

chas350
I would need to weld all the crossmembers. I would also box the frame where I could. When I had the body off the frame, I felt like there was WAYYYYY to much flex.

Chad

chas350 · 11-18-2008, 10:57 PM

Hey NV
They are known for a lot of flex. I learned to drive in a 71 LWB Step. My father warned me about placing my hands on the front bed panel when I rode around the farm in the back (harvesting potatos, hay, etc) There was so much flex that your fingers could get pinched between the cab and bed and it did happen to me. Im sure you have noticed they are pretty close together on these trucks.

Anyway all that flex can cause welds to the frame to fatigue and crack. Im sure this would take a while and some rough use. Not sure what you plan to use it for......good luck

chas

11-17-2008, 01:11 PM	#1
DJ72CHEVY Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Brenham, Texas Posts: 79	Frame ? My frame is in pretty good shape. If there is minimal or normal rust between the cab supports, or crossmembers and the frame, is there any need to remove them and use bolts to put them back on? And, are the original rivits better (stronger) than the bolts?

11-17-2008, 03:09 PM	#2
Ram-Man Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 943	Re: Frame ? I wouldnt pull any of the riveted parts apart unless you have to. As for the strength of them pull a couple apart and you will have pretty good respect for those rivets. __________________ Porterbuilt 8 Lugger http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691739

11-17-2008, 03:42 PM	#3
blukangoo Neighborhood Pickle Slinger Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cadolzburg, Bavaria, Germany Posts: 2,224	Re: Frame ? The only thing I know that is stronger than rivets is welding. __________________ -------------------------------------------------- My C10 Diary Our cars: 1966 Chevrolet Chevelle 396 - TH350 1968 Chevrolet C10/CST 327 TH400/375 1969 Corvette Stingray 350 - Muncie Manual Trans 1969 Chevrolet ElCamino 350 - TH400 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - 350 Rocket - TH350 1973 Camaro LT - New Engine Done - TH350 1973 Corvette Convertible 454 - TH400

11-17-2008, 06:25 PM	#4
DJ72CHEVY Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Brenham, Texas Posts: 79	Re: Frame ? Thanks, I will leave them alone.

11-17-2008, 08:49 PM	#5
chas350 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Connecticut Posts: 581	Re: Frame ? Hey DJ, What gives the rivet strength is the tight fit achieved from the swage/peening when it is installed. These are tough to remove. I grind one side off flush and then drive them out with a stout drift and BFH. You will notice a 3/8" bolt fits loosley, do not use them! Even grade 8. I personally don't trust this, because if bolt to part fit isn't tight, it will eventually loosen and slot the frame/part holes resulting in failure. So what I have done is drill out the frame and part (crossmember,mount, etc) with a 7/16" drill being carefull to not enlarge it with a sloppy drill job. Then pick up some grade 8 fine thread 7/16" bolts, nuts and washers and you will be all set. Just make sure the nuts and washers are grade 8 also, and torque them to 70lbs. If your really worried about it you can go up to 1/2" This is plenty strong enough to trust IMO. chas __________________ "I'll Procrastinate Tomorrow" quote by LEEVON 71 K10 long fleet (sons truck) new 370hp 355, sm465 np205, 3.73's 33's 70 K20 long fleet 98 G3500 work van

11-18-2008, 12:42 PM	#6
DJ72CHEVY Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Brenham, Texas Posts: 79	Re: Frame ? Thanks Chas, The frame is in good shape, I will leave it alone, unless I decide to shorten it.

11-18-2008, 04:40 PM	#7
14U2NV Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Midlothian, Tx Posts: 156	Re: Frame ? OK, so the PO of my blazer went the 3/8 route and I had considered going to the 7/16th bolt. I still was leary about that. If I square everything up good and watch the heat, do you guys think it might be better to just weld up the frame?

11-18-2008, 08:19 PM	#8
chas350 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Connecticut Posts: 581	Re: Frame ? DJ, dont let that rust go! NV I have heard that welding frames can lead to cracks. What are we considering to weld? cab mount, cross member, spring hanger,etc? Its hard to help with out more info. chas __________________ "I'll Procrastinate Tomorrow" quote by LEEVON 71 K10 long fleet (sons truck) new 370hp 355, sm465 np205, 3.73's 33's 70 K20 long fleet 98 G3500 work van

11-18-2008, 08:55 PM	#9
14U2NV Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Midlothian, Tx Posts: 156	Re: Frame ? chas350 I would need to weld all the crossmembers. I would also box the frame where I could. When I had the body off the frame, I felt like there was WAYYYYY to much flex. Chad

11-18-2008, 10:57 PM	#10
chas350 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Connecticut Posts: 581	Re: Frame ? Hey NV They are known for a lot of flex. I learned to drive in a 71 LWB Step. My father warned me about placing my hands on the front bed panel when I rode around the farm in the back (harvesting potatos, hay, etc) There was so much flex that your fingers could get pinched between the cab and bed and it did happen to me. Im sure you have noticed they are pretty close together on these trucks. Anyway all that flex can cause welds to the frame to fatigue and crack. Im sure this would take a while and some rough use. Not sure what you plan to use it for......good luck chas __________________ "I'll Procrastinate Tomorrow" quote by LEEVON 71 K10 long fleet (sons truck) new 370hp 355, sm465 np205, 3.73's 33's 70 K20 long fleet 98 G3500 work van Last edited by chas350; 11-18-2008 at 10:58 PM.



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