dana 44 brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cheyenne10 · 02-22-2003, 02:37 AM

Just re-did the front disc brakes on K20 4x4 with dana 44. New calipers and rotors and bled the system real well. Now pedal seems to start braking lower down when pedal applied than before and almost seems to hit a solid point before brakes lock. Before new work done brakes worked well and when pressure applied to the pedal braking action started fairly high up. I can still feel the power brakes (vacuum assist) and pedal doesn't go to floor but just doesn't feel solid. Any thoughts? Hoses look good and solid and master cylinder is full.

Blazer1970 · 02-22-2003, 12:03 PM

You didn't get all the air out when you bled the brakes. It is possible that you may have to bleed the rears also depending on how much it dripped down when you swapped the calipers.

cheyenne10 · 02-22-2003, 10:33 PM

Bled the rears the first time. We also bled more on each corner again today with little to no improvement. I have a corp/eaton rearend and peeking in the inspection plugs on the back side of the rear brakes the shoes look good but could be adjusted out. We did not see where soemone could adjust the star-wheel adjsuters to get quicker grab on the rear shoes. Does anyone have advise on how to adjust rear shoes?

danho · 02-23-2003, 01:31 AM

Take off the rear drums, remove the lower spring and the star adjuster and drill 2 or 3 holes in a row in the backing plate, clean it up with a die grinder and a carbide bit or whatever you have so the rubber plug will fit in there, reassemble and adjust the shoes.
I did this on my 72 and it made a big difference in braking. Hope this helps, Dan.

nu2-72 · 02-23-2003, 09:56 AM

I believe my K20 Eaton has the knock outs in the drum face. They are adjusted from outside the truck so no need to crawl underneath. I have a pic here somewhere.

**jerry moss** · 02-23-2003, 11:49 AM

Bob,
you didn't by chance swap calipers location, right on left and left on right. if that happens, the bleeder ends up on the bottom. it sounds funny but i've seen it happen and you can never get the air out til you swap them to the correct sides.
another thing to check is the prop valve, if it flips it has to be centered before the fluid will flow.

cheyenne10 · 02-24-2003, 01:21 AM

NU2-72; If you could get pics of knockouts on drum that would help a bunch. I can't see why they wouldn't allow external adjustment on rear brakes (didn't everything else?)

Jerry;

I will check on bleeder screw locations tomorrow.

Isn't the button on the front of prop. valve the equalization switch. Shouldn't it just be depressed with thumb or is there more to it?

Keep it coming I'm learning tonight!!

cheyenne10 · 02-24-2003, 12:32 PM

I looked at front calipers and they were installed right.

I looked at the plugs on the eaton rearend backing plates and I can only see Brake shoes just inside hole (can't see by them). On a spare housing I have I look in inspection slot I wee star wheel like I expected. What gives? I still would like to see drilled holes for adjustment.

02-22-2003, 02:37 AM	#1
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,512	dana 44 brakes Just re-did the front disc brakes on K20 4x4 with dana 44. New calipers and rotors and bled the system real well. Now pedal seems to start braking lower down when pedal applied than before and almost seems to hit a solid point before brakes lock. Before new work done brakes worked well and when pressure applied to the pedal braking action started fairly high up. I can still feel the power brakes (vacuum assist) and pedal doesn't go to floor but just doesn't feel solid. Any thoughts? Hoses look good and solid and master cylinder is full. __________________ Bob

02-22-2003, 12:03 PM	#2
Blazer1970 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Old Mission, MI, USA Posts: 2,510	You didn't get all the air out when you bled the brakes. It is possible that you may have to bleed the rears also depending on how much it dripped down when you swapped the calipers. __________________ Tim

02-22-2003, 10:33 PM	#3
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,512	update HELP on adjsuting rear brakes Bled the rears the first time. We also bled more on each corner again today with little to no improvement. I have a corp/eaton rearend and peeking in the inspection plugs on the back side of the rear brakes the shoes look good but could be adjusted out. We did not see where soemone could adjust the star-wheel adjsuters to get quicker grab on the rear shoes. Does anyone have advise on how to adjust rear shoes? __________________ Bob

02-23-2003, 01:31 AM	#4
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	adjusters Take off the rear drums, remove the lower spring and the star adjuster and drill 2 or 3 holes in a row in the backing plate, clean it up with a die grinder and a carbide bit or whatever you have so the rubber plug will fit in there, reassemble and adjust the shoes. I did this on my 72 and it made a big difference in braking. Hope this helps, Dan.

02-23-2003, 09:56 AM	#5
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	I believe my K20 Eaton has the knock outs in the drum face. They are adjusted from outside the truck so no need to crawl underneath. I have a pic here somewhere. __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide

02-23-2003, 11:49 AM	#6
jerry moss Born Psycho Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: brentwood,cal,usa Posts: 4,884	Bob, you didn't by chance swap calipers location, right on left and left on right. if that happens, the bleeder ends up on the bottom. it sounds funny but i've seen it happen and you can never get the air out til you swap them to the correct sides. another thing to check is the prop valve, if it flips it has to be centered before the fluid will flow. __________________ jerry moss 72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD 69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies. 73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog. 77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA

02-24-2003, 01:21 AM	#7
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,512	great replies NU2-72; If you could get pics of knockouts on drum that would help a bunch. I can't see why they wouldn't allow external adjustment on rear brakes (didn't everything else?) Jerry; I will check on bleeder screw locations tomorrow. Isn't the button on the front of prop. valve the equalization switch. Shouldn't it just be depressed with thumb or is there more to it? Keep it coming I'm learning tonight!! __________________ Bob

02-24-2003, 12:32 PM	#8
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,512	update I looked at front calipers and they were installed right. I looked at the plugs on the eaton rearend backing plates and I can only see Brake shoes just inside hole (can't see by them). On a spare housing I have I look in inspection slot I wee star wheel like I expected. What gives? I still would like to see drilled holes for adjustment. __________________ Bob



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