Looking for reassurance.. to cut up my baby

[Jet Blue 68]

Hello everyone. I have a 1968 SWB Chevy C-10 Fleetside. Been driving every chance I get but recently... the front drum brakes and master are not performing like they should. So out they go. I could just rebuild but why not upgrade? I've been saving up money and buying parts for a while in anticipation of this. After reading up on this site I've decided to order a kit from ECE for the front. I want to keep my truck "mostly original" but upgrade it. I've already replaced the 250 with a 350, but other than that it's bare bones (painted bumpers option only ) stock. Not perfect but nowhere near junk. I also have parts to do the power steering (70 model donor). That's everything I'm 100% on doing...

While I've got everything apart I would love to also bag it though! Not dropped to frame- I believe ART's front kit and my stock rear converted to airbags would do. They have a 70-72 shop truck in their ad that gave me inspiration to set the stance. I have the factory trailing arm (coils) in the rear, and would rather go with a under the bed notch. Basically similar to what the rear ART kit is. What I'm really undecided on (paranoid about) is notching the rear...

I have a great friend who is about to open a shop, I'm not a welder but he is.
I know my truck is no more special than the next guy but I don't want to f-it up or turn it into scrap. So I guess my real reason for starting this is a simple question:

How many people out there are running an under the bed notch, welded or bolted in (or both!)? Any recommendations for a paranoid first time notcher?

[LuckyHenriksen]

No experience, but they definitely look way better when the notch is hidden under the bed

[heavy71chevy]

My best advice for doing a notch is make sure the welds have good penetration and make sure its straight and square before you cut out your stock frame rail or else its gonna buckle...its not all that hard to do just requires patience and a good solid plan...good luck and we need pics!!! lol

[N2TRUX]

I sense your concern over modifying your truck is perhaps taking away some of the value. While there are those that might disagree, mild modifications to your truck will enhance the value as well as desirability.

With that said, a mild c-notch with out cutting the bed is all you need. With some minor modifications you can have a truck that retains the classic stock appearance while having the advantage of a fully adjustable suspension.

Go ahead and cut it up, it's only metal...

[ChevLoRay]

On a coil-sprung truck, you can drop it 6-inches in the rear, without having to notch the frame. You would need to use an adjustable panhard rod, or track bar. My truck is dropped 2.5/4.0, from ECE. Stock height springs up front. I want to drop it another inch up front and go 1 or 2 more down south out back. Stactic drop is my main interest, although an AirLift air spring does interest me out back. It would let me vary the rear and also give me some ability to haul stuff.

You won't be sorry for having used ECE components. Stan and his guys are great to work with and will answer any questions you may have.

[Jet Blue 68]

Thanks everyone. I'm wondering how many people run this set up if for nothing else cuz all the components are there... I'm mechanically inclined but reluctant to do much modifying from stock typically. I tend to want to overdo things. Bolt in is best for me cause I could always un-bolt it (Talkin bout everything but the notch here, of course ) Funny- I've lowered a sport bike by engineering & machining a lowering link out of aluminum, but when it comes to something as simple as a c-notch on my truck frame I get so apprehensive. but I'm a machinist not a welder And I would rather keep the option of going back to stock because hopefully someday I'll be an old man with a really old truck, and I might go crazy and want to restore it. I am after all keeping the factory engine and everything else just incase...

[72BlckButy]

If it were me and you wanted to get as low as possible without major modification, I would run the 4/6 kit from ECE. Everything involved in this kit is entirely bolt on and if you wanted to change back remove the spindles/springs and bing bang boom your stock again.

If I have an original (slightly modified) truck I would go this route, but just my $.02.

Good luck with the decision!

[matthufham]

lowering it 6 inches doesn't require a notch, unless you drive the truck

because 1 inch of clearance between the axle and the frame lets you know when there's a bump in the road.

[Jet Blue 68]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

If it were me and you wanted to get as low as possible without major modification, I would run the 4/6 kit from ECE. Everything involved in this kit is entirely bolt on and if you wanted to change back remove the spindles/springs and bing bang boom your stock again.

If I have an original (slightly modified) truck I would go this route, but just my $.02.

Good luck with the decision!

Thanks,
I have seriously considered just lowering it with springs, as it would be much cheaper and less stressful. But from pictures I've seen, and the benefits of adjustment I really want to bag it to get it lower than a 4/6 drop. Of course I'm only really using visual references.
I know if I don't do it now it will drive me crazy. (I have been obsessing over this for a while, but it's much easier to plan out than do..) Either way I don't think I'll get around notching it to do what I want. Plus it will keep me from dropping it any further, because I won't do it twice or make it un-restorable; other than the notch. Real subtle mods, just cleaning it up like a hot-rodder would. I'm just paranoid because it's my first time doing frame modification and I still want to be able to drive my truck and use it. It will always be a truck!