The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-25-2008, 09:19 PM   #1
exdrocca
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Warrington, PA
Posts: 75
clicking/knocking front end

Recently,I've been noticing that every time I drive over a speed hump or make a hard turn, I hear a knocking sound coming from the passenger side front end. I took a quick look and nothing seems to be broken, but I have no idea what it could be. This is for a '72 C-10 2wd.
Thanks for your help

Last edited by exdrocca; 11-25-2008 at 09:37 PM.
exdrocca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2008, 09:22 PM   #2
Tx Firefighter
Watch out for your cornhole !
 
Tx Firefighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
Re: clicking/knocking front end

Sounds like a worn ball joint.
__________________
I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin
Tx Firefighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2008, 09:51 PM   #3
dieselarmy13
Phone's ringin Dude.
 
dieselarmy13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,426
Re: clicking/knocking front end

I'd agree on the balljoint. I replaced mine not that long ago and had a mentally challenged moment and didn't grease them. After a 250 mile roadtrip, my driver side started doing the same thing as you described. Sounds like someone is hitting my A-arm with a ball-peen hammer. If I grease it once a week, it stays quiet, but I really do need to replace it.
__________________
I pitty the fool with only two headlights!!


2003 SILVERADO SS--THE NEW GIRL


1972 GMC--THE OLD GIRL
dieselarmy13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2008, 09:54 PM   #4
cdowns
Senior Member
 
cdowns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
Re: clicking/knocking front end

ever grease your frontend?
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane

MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF

DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK

TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY
cdowns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2008, 10:09 PM   #5
Painter D
Registered User
 
Painter D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: DFW (Forney)
Posts: 1,529
Re: clicking/knocking front end

Might try checking the upper shock mount , I had one come loose on me once.


Nevermind I just reread your first post, probably a balljoint.
__________________
'58 SWB Fleetside...Front & Rear Porterbuilt Dropmember, 6.0 LS /4L60E. Accuair E-level, 20 Billet Specialties (Vintecs)

'63 Buick Riviera ... AccuAir E-level, 20" Billet Specialties (Vintecs)


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=528853&page=5

Last edited by Painter D; 11-25-2008 at 10:12 PM.
Painter D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2008, 10:37 PM   #6
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
Re: clicking/knocking front end

A shock would make noise on any road imperfection (my longhorn was like that the first year i drove it) But a ball joint (upper most likely) will do as described in the original post.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2008, 05:25 PM   #7
exdrocca
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Warrington, PA
Posts: 75
Re: clicking/knocking front end

ok, so I greased all the balljoints, and it that didn't solve the problem. I checked the upper balljoint, and that seems to be it. As far as taking off the upper balljoint, do I need a spring compressor? Is the upper joint also pressed in like the lower ones?

Thank you again
exdrocca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2008, 05:42 PM   #8
71tahoe
Registered User
 
71tahoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Jonesboro, AR
Posts: 916
Re: clicking/knocking front end

Original uppers are riveted. You can grind off the top of the rivet and punch it out. It can be done with the spring installed but at your own risk. For safety, loop a chain through the spring and LCA and fasten. If you lower the control arm SLOWLY the spring will just fall out (I may have had sagging springs though). If the jack slips it may fly out. Oh, and always put the truck on sturdy jack stands.

Last edited by 71tahoe; 11-29-2008 at 05:43 PM.
71tahoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2008, 06:27 PM   #9
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
Re: clicking/knocking front end

no need for a chain. You can throw the spring and cause more dammage. You don't even need to let the pressure off the lower control arm at all.
Lift and support with jack stands
Place floor jack under lower control arm and raise jack up until l the lower control arm moves just a bit.
remove wheel, use pickle fork and split the ball joint from the spindle, use strap to keep spindle from flopping over and jerking on the brake hose, grind off rivit heads and remove old ball joint.

Last edited by Longhorn Man; 11-29-2008 at 06:28 PM.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2008, 07:26 PM   #10
exdrocca
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Warrington, PA
Posts: 75
Re: clicking/knocking front end

Hey longhorn man is this what you're explaining in this link below? Can I use a hammer to hit from underneath? And to get the spring to compress am I just going to jack it all the way up?

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/4...rakes-fork.htm
exdrocca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #11
Tx Firefighter
Watch out for your cornhole !
 
Tx Firefighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
Re: clicking/knocking front end

You're not really compressing the spring any appreciable amount. All you want to do is jack it up enough to take the bind out of the upper ball joint. You should not have any reason to even touch the spring unless you just want to.

The new ball joint will come with bolts to bolt it in place instead of rivets like original.

It's a 30 minute job if things go well.
__________________
I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin
Tx Firefighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com