99 Yukon 4x4 5.7 with 1345 engine code

[orange66fleet]

I bought the truck knowing it had some issues and fixed most of the except this 1345 code about cam/crank misfire issue. I have replaced the radiator, crank sensor, camshaft sensor, and passange oxygen sensor passed cat. All codes are gone but 1345. I read some of the guys having the problem replaced the distributor and or messed with the timing. If I start by turning the distibutor, what procedure for timing will I use. I have a adjustable timing light. Is there a certain rmp I time it at or is it at idle and what should the timing be originally. How long does it usually take for the light to go off. Sorry for the long post but, I want all the info down. Thanks for the help in advance and Happy Hollidays to every one. Oh, E-check sucks.

[truckdude239]

light will not go out till you reset the computer

[bwood]

There is also a camshaft pos sensor in the dist. Did the previos owner have the intake gaskets replaced recently? When stabbing the dist it must be at 0 +/-2 degrees cam timing or the code will set. You can try to turn the dist with the engine off and clear the code and see if it is close enough to clear the light. Usually when it is set, the foward dist cap screw should be 1/8" from the upper intake plenum. Here is a pic of my new engine on the stand showing how close the dist should be to the intake:

Look at the gap at the end of the torxdriver:



The camshaft pos sensor is the plug in the side of the dist. and can be changed without removing the dist by rotating the engine until the gap in the reluctor wheel (I think thats what its called, sheet metal piece that the rotor is attached to) lines up over the csps. I would recommend pulling the spark plugs and turning the engine over to TDC. With the dist cap removed, the electrode on the rotor should point directly at #1 cyl. If it is slightly off, this will set the code and means the dist needs to be pulled and rotated 1 tooth in the appropiate direction. Once it is all lined up, lock the dist down like I described above. Clear the light and see if it comes back up. If it looks good, keep an eye on it. Sometimes it can be close enough to work, but when you floor it and the comp starts making drastic changes the light could come back on. I would get it as close as you could and take it to a shop you can adjust it with the proper scanner/computer. This is the only way to actually see the 0 degrees cam timing. Be carefull when removing the dist cap screws as they can crack the dist housing. Back them out a 1/4 then back in an 1/8 and keep doing this until they come out. This helps to clean the hole out and preventsthe plastic from distorting and cracking the housing. If you feel uncomfortable at all doing any of this, stop, get a manual. If your still not sure, take it to someone. I did mine last year when I replaced the gaskets and had the dealer adjust the timing. My issue was that even with all of the adjustments, I still got the code. Come to find out the used dist I picked up was for a 6 cyl. Good Luck.

[orange66fleet]

The previous owner is not a car person and bought the truck and drovre it for about 30 days when the radiator went on him and had been sitting ever since. I have been driving it for 60 days now with no driviability problems and I took it to the e-check and discovered the service engine soon light bulb was burnt out, (I replace the bulb). I did replace the cam and crank sensors, but have not had the chance to reset the light. I replaced the crank sensor first and had autozone reset the light, but it came back on 30 seconds after starting the truck, then I replaced the cam sensor. Autozone is saying that it is unlawful for them to reset the light now and have been doing it if I push the buttons, I do not know if they are going to let me do it again. If I unhook the battery will the light reset? Thanks for your help.

[bwood]

It is unlawful?? Unhooking the battery should do it but if the prob still exists, it will come back just as fast. You can get your own code reader for under $100 bucks and do it yourself.

http://http://www.autozone.com/R,773...ductDetail.htm

[orange66fleet]

I did try to unhook the battery, but it did not reset the light. When I had it reset at the store it was out when I started the truck. I only unhooked the negative cable, maybe I have to do both, neg. and pos. to reset. I do not know, is there some timelimit to have it unhooked.

[bwood]

It normally takes about 10 min. to clear the code (I can't remember if it actually will on the OBD II vehicles). If you recently replaced the suspect part, then there should be no "legal issues" with clearing the light. I have heard of shop intentionally disabling emission components which would be unlawful. I really don't see a problem with clearing a light dealing with the Engine Managment System.

[orange66fleet]

I went to harbor feight and bought one of the code readers. I reset the codes and after a minute of the truck running the light comes up again with the same code.

[truckdude239]

it not unlawful problem is the store near me has bought several engine computers because there scan tool cleared the whole computer i mean everything in it

[bwood]

Sounds like the dist might be a tooth off, or one of the Cam PS or the Crank PS is possibly bad out of the box. I would check the dist positon first. I just went through this putting my dist in for the last time (I'm puttin' the new engine in tomorrow). Here is the proceedure for the Gen 1 Vortec:

1. Bring the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center)
A. I remove all the spark plugs and belt to make rotating the engine easier
B. Put a socket on the balancer bolt (5/8") and rotate the engine clockwise. While doing this keep a finger over the #1 spark plug hole and feel for the compression. When you start to feel the compression, line up the balancer timing mark and the notch on the timing cover.

Once these are perfectly aligned the engine should be at TDC. It might make it easier to see if the balancer pulley was removed. Also, if the marks are lined up but you did not feel the compression, you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke (180 degrees off). Rotate the engine once more to your marks.

2. Remove the dist cap and wires. The cap should be marked with the cyl #'s but make sure to mark all wire locations.

3. Unplug the Cam PS at the dist base, loosen the dist hold down and remove the dist.

4. Look at the dist gear for wear. If all good, line up the dimple in the dist gear with the white mark on the dist shaft:


5. If necessary, use a long flatblade screwdriver and adjust the oil pump drive to align with the dist gear

6. Install the dist. With the dist properly installed, the rotor electrode will point to the raised "piont" at the bottom of the dist housing:

The raised "point" should have the #8 on it to signify the timing marks for the 8 cyl engines. If it is off, pull back out and rotate the rotor one tooth in the approiate direction and stab it again. In the pic I also highlighted the foward dist cap screw hole to show how close it is to the intake.

One thing to check also is to remove the rotor and see if there is a number stamped in the reluctor ring. #8 is an 8 cyl dist and #6 is a 6 cyl. Don't ask how I figured that out.

This should get you very close to the proper timing, but still may require slight tweeking to get it perfect (something that should be done by someone with the approiate scanner). When I did my intake gaskets last year, I talked to the dealer about setting it for me. I have a good relation ship with them so he said if the dist was off a tooth, it would be an hour labor. But if it was in correctly and just need to be tweeked, he wouldn't charge me anything. Good Luck.

[orange66fleet]

Thanks For the info and pictures this clears alot of questions up. I hope to go out some time today. I probly will have to get a new distributor anyway, because the previous owner broke the mounting tab on the distributor closest to the intake gasket and had countersunk screws holding it on. I wire tied it down for know. (I Micgivered it) Ha, Ha

[bwood]

Here are some part #s for Dist

Cardon Indust Reman #30-1829 $149.99/$75 core (Oreilly Auto)
Dorman OE Solutions #690-902 $306.99 (Oreilly Auto)

You can probably find a better deal, I use NAPA because they give me a little better discount. If you decide to do any more tuning up, I recommend trying MSD wires #32163 $88.99 @ AutoZone (these are black, they make a red but they are about $10 higher). Use the Delco plugs. I just installed a MSD Coil also, #8231 $48.99 @ Autozone. AZ had the cheapest price on this stuff, cheaper than Summit/Jegs.

[orange66fleet]

Thanks for those part numbers and prices, As soon as I get more money I will be doing some more tuning up one at a time to keep expenses down.

[orange66fleet]

Ok I just went outside to see if I could see the timing marks on the balancer and the timing cover and I did not see anything with all the pulleys, belt and ect. on. This is going to be more dificult with everyting in the way. I am going to atempt pulling the dist. this weekend. I have a question regarding the cap and rotor, can the rotor or cap or both together produce the 1345 code if they are bad.

[trailwart]

this is a quick solution. the timing is non adjustable. no timing light will help you. you have the crank/cam correlation code. 2 ways to make it go away, find a scanner that has live data reading capabitlities and set the timing to 0. or with the code reader you have, you just keep clearing the code and move the dizzy 1/16 inch at a time, if the code keeps showing then you are still to far off. ive have this program and it is well worth the money, not just a code reader. http://www.myscantool.com/index.html

[trailwart]

Originally Posted by orange66fleet

Ok I just went outside to see if I could see the timing marks on the balancer and the timing cover and I did not see anything with all the pulleys, belt and ect. on. This is going to be more dificult with everyting in the way. I am going to atempt pulling the dist. this weekend. I have a question regarding the cap and rotor, can the rotor or cap or both together produce the 1345 code if they are bad.

just to let you know, you can and will get the code with no faulty parts if the dizzy has been truned or pulled. you need to do a crank relearn/ correlation for it to dissapear. once that has been done, if the light continues to come on then there could be a faulty part. without having a tool to read live data to know exactly what the sensors are reading and what the exact timing is, could be a costly process. most tuffy and small shops do the relearn for 40$-100$. o degrees+-2 is what you need, anything more off than that will set the code. with enough attempts with the code clearer you have with very small turns on the dizzy, you might hit the sweet spot to get it to stay off. if the truck is running, then your close, ive never seen a vortec run being 1 tooth off.

[orange66fleet]

I need the marks so I know that I am at tdc and I do understand about the no timing light will help in this situation.

[bwood]

In my pics, I highlighted the marks for the pics. The balancer mark is actually a groove in the balancer and the timing cover has a notch in a raised part of the cover. If you line everything up like posted earlier, you should be very close, close enough to make the 1/16 adjustments like just posted. Once you get it so close that the light does not come one, find a shop who can fine tune it. Go step by step like I posted before, it might take some time, but next time you'll be a pro at it. Do you have manual? If not find a Chilton, it has similar instructions. Right now GM dealers in my area are getting about $80-90 per hour. If you can get it down to fine tuning, you should be able to get out of it for about a 1/2 hour (if they will charge for only a half hour).

[bwood]

Also the dist cap and rotor will not cause the P1345 code. The cam sensor and the crank sensor cause this code. The crank sensor is located in the pass side bottom of the timing cover and cam sensor is located below the dist rotor and reluctor ring.
Here are some pics for clarification:

Camshaft Position Sensor installed:


Camshaft Position Sensor Removed:


Reluctor Ring in Distributor:

[bwood]

Any updates?

[orange66fleet]

No updates, but I looked on evilbay and found a nice replacement dist,cap, rotor and sensor for 80 plus 17 shipping. This on has an aluminum housing, the pricing I get around here is double that price. I might just wait to buy that, switch it and then mess around with the truck again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280284741247

[bwood]

I've never seen one with an aluminum housing. Proform makes a new plastic one for about $220 (Jegs sells it). I would really recommend a refurb from a local parts store. They will come with a Lifetime Warr and you won't have to rely on some guy in Cali to get a warr taken care of. Go with AC Delco cap and rotor.

AC Delco Cap:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0
AC Delco Rotor:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0
Cardon Reman Dist w/ Cam PS:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0

Just a FYI there really is no performance gain with these dist. Its not like the older styles where points, weights and ignition modules could enhance the opertion of the ignition system.

Here is the Proform Dist @ Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/67026/10002/-1
I don't know much about it, but if I need a dist again I will probably go new from Oreillys or NAPA.