Would you fix it or replace it?

[Pont406]

This truck always had a vibration since I bought it. Slowlly it's been getting worse. Anything above 70mph and vibration is real bad. I kept on putting it off. This morning I finally decided to check it out. Front part of the driveshaft vibrates a lot, second part is solid. Both rear tires are wobbling up and down.
Motor and trans are solid. So looks like am looking at both rear axles, balance or replaced front driveshaft and tires. Front end is wore out also, but at least right front shock stoped leaking. I want to replace wheels and tires anyway, add a front disc brakes and rebuilt front end. Also I am staring to see signs of rust. So, I am looking at about $2000-2500. I payed $1400 for this truck, I know too much. Anyway, should I fix this or get another truck? I saw a few good deals out there for about $3000. I need some ideas on this. Here are some pics that I tryed to take with it running to show vibration. I need to learn how to make a video. Thanks

[Pont406]

One more pic

[ksjh1316]

I would say where is the rust that thing looks better than every 10k truck out here in the rust belt. Should be an easy fix I would not get a new truck, but on the off chance you do I will give you back your 1,400.00.

[cdowns]

take it to the juv\nkyard and sell it for scrap

[grayw0lf]

Fix it. But I wouldn't do a thing before I balanced the tires & replaced the shocks.
I'm always amazed how much smoother my rides are after I get new tires!

[leddzepp]

check your carrier bearing and U-joints

[ChevLoRay]

All I see is normal surface rust that comes from normal usage.

Maintenance is something that is a "pay me now, or pay me later" sort of thing. If you do the little things along the way, you won't be struck with a mountain of them at one time.

I agree that simply doing a balance job on the wheels/tires should be first on the list. If you think that there are driveline issues, pull the driveshaft and replace the u-joints and the center link support. Make sure they are not binding, i.e. stiff, when you put it back in the truck.

As for the conversion to discs in front, you know there are aftermarket products available, but there are the components from the '71-72's that you can use, if you maintain a stock altitude. Ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms, control arm shafts and bushings and springs are items that can be replaced, if they need it.

If the rest of your truck looks as nice as the back does, I wish my truck had only cost what yours did.....and looked half as nice.

[chevychase]

good advice

[Boog]

Pont, you're joking right? It's got a lot of age and miles on it so the suspension bushings are worn and maybe a bit loose. As far as spinning the wheels with it up on the jack? I don't think I've ever had a vehicle that the wheels didn't bounce around a bit while up on the jack at a certain speed regardless of a recent balance or not. These old trucks are gonna drive different than our newer ones. It just depends on what you want out of it as to what you do about it. New tires and shocks will most always make one drive almost like new. If the driveshaft is suspect have it checked for balance. That vibration could be transferring up from the rearend as well. It does not mean you have to do a frame off to completely rebuild the chassis. So you spend a few hundred on suspension parts and a new set of tires and I bet it'll drive just right.

[caminokid]

With a truck that nice I wouldnt think twice about putting any kind of cash in it. Think about this...I am doing a frame of...it will end up costing me 12,000.00 to 15,000.00 for me to do all of it myself. So if you stick 2000.00 in it more...I wouldnt complain. Just my .02 worth. Like it was said before me...I will give you your money back that you have in it and stick 2000.00 in it myself.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Pont406

Front end is wore out also, but at least right front shock stoped leaking.

If it "stopped" leaking, it's because it is empty....there is no other way.

[Pont406]

I drove it kinda hard for a year, but not a lot. Maybe 7000 miles and now all these problems all at once. I only drive it on the weekends now. I had money to do front end but I spend it on top end. Top end was fine but I wanted better heads and cam. Now I have to wait untill tax return. All that rust is from a blown heater core. What is a good way to clean it?

[Indyuke]

That's a nice looking truck. I'd do what others have said and put several hundred dollars into the suspension and rear drive. I'm in the process of doing the same thing... replacing all the moving suspension components. When the suspension, brakes, drivetrain are all in tip top working order, you can just feel the quality under you when you drive it, and it makes the whole truck feel so much nicer.

I like quiet, comfortable and tight.

[mfarmer]

I would keep it. At least you know what is wrong with this one. You will only be trading your current problems for some different ones. From the pictures show the truck looks nice. When you spend the money to fix the problems with the current truck you will a least know they are fixed correct. Get rid of it and buy another, you will be second guessing those same areas forever.

[truckdude239]

take thatdrive shaft and have it balanced and new u joint put in and center support bearing. your axles are wobbleing because you need new wheel bearings not that hard of a job. 4-500 buxs total

[rob32472]

Agreed first check the wheels/ tires for balance then replace shocks u joints etc.

[Pont406]

I got a small bonus at work so now I have some money to play. I need to get a 5 lug axles. Summit list these 5 lug axles for a 69 c10. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Do you guys think these axles will fit a 69 rear? At the same time I will get a powertrax unit. I need some help on which wheels to run. What would you recommend? And maybe a small drop?

[sleepertruck72]

On my computer screen it looks like your rear tires are worn out. I may be wrong but if their not, you could have them balanced and rotated to see if it improves. You should also be able to check your driveshaft for out of balance
at a driveshaft shop. The u-joints may have zerk fittings for grease. You may wanna grease them up. I replaced mine and it was fairly easy. Well I didnt break anything so that helped. If you decide thats too much work for you and decide to sell it I would take it off your hands
Thats a nice truck, fix it and drive it !!! Dont sell !

[dan42]

Out of curiosity, has the truck ever been wrecked? At least get the frame checked - that wouldn't cost much, and before you dump money into it, you'll know you have a solid foundation to start on.

[WIDESIDE72]

It looks to me like the truck needs new tires, and judging from the picture of the greasy blown (original?!?) fronts, a set of shocks all around, then look at the driveshaft.

[MrBeast]

Here is what I would do, in this order.

1. Rebuild your front suspension, if you dont have disc brakes, upgrade to them, at this point you can also convert it to a 5 lug.
2. replace all the bushings, the carrier bearing and your U-joints in the rear.
3. New Tires.

The reason you want to do tires last is if your suspension is messed up it will "eat" tires in a big hurry. That is why you want to get the running gear right first.

You should be able to completely rebuild your front susp yourself in a couple of weekends. Then the rear will take about the same amount of time if not a little less because it is not as complex.

For getting the new ball joints and bushings pressed in, most auto parts stores like napa will have a press and will do it for you if you buy the parts from them.

1400.00 is not too much for that truck, it would appear that you have a really clean body, sure it is pond scum green, but that can be fixed. I think you have a good solid truck on your hands, and if you take good care of it and fix the hand full of things that are wrong with it, it will server you very well for many years.

I know it is easy to get frustrated with your projects, especially when you are looking at having to spend a large amount of money to get em right, but in the end it is very worth it.

If you need any advice on how to get it done, feel free to hit me up, I will be more than happy to give you a hand.

[ChevLoRay]

Okay, playing devil's advocate....

Why do you want to change to 5-lugs? The newer trucks now have 6-lugs and there are a lot more wheels to choose from. ECE has a disc-conversion set up, as do others, that retain the 6-lug pattern. That way, you can retain the 6-lug axles and use the money you'd save to do other stuff. If you ever decided that 5-lugs were the way to go, ECE says that regular GM 5-lug truck rotors will go right onto the spindles they sell and you could then replace your entire rear end or just the axles...and get new 5-lug wheels.

I kept the 6-lug pattern on my truck, with these thoughts in mind.

[Chevymann1968]

I would like to see more pics of the truck!!! Just to see what your working with!!!! LOL

[Pont406]

Tires are wore out. All I did is drive it hard for a year and now it's felling a part. I am geting a front 5 lug disc brakes. 6 lug disc brake kits cost about $600. I can get 5 lug disc brakes and rebuilt the front end for half of that. I dont like a 6 lug wheel choises. I might get rallys but I really starting to like these wheels http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[theyammieguy]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

If it "stopped" leaking, it's because it is empty....there is no other way.

Exactly what I was thinking.