"synthetic oil" versus normal oil....

[Americanrider]

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html


Good reading here.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I like synthetics because they do not come out of the ground from somewhere in the Middle East.

My understaning is that synthetic oil is re-engineered petroleum. I believe it's oil that has been super refined with other additives added, but still petroleum based...

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong.

[Thealien]

There are different groups of synthetic oils, group I II III IV and V. Some are refined petroleum products and some are completely synthetic (not refined from petroleum products). There was a lawsuit I believe where Mobil 1 Sued Castrol because of the claim of synthetic on the refined petroleum products, they lost IIRC.

In most cases I believe regular petroleum products changed at the correct intervals is all "most" people need.

There are a couple of real advantages to synthetic oils. First is pour temperature. On a 30 degree day pour a quart of your favorite petroleum oil at the same time you pour a quart of a synthetic. The synthetic will pour more easily, you may even have to squeez the petroleum quart to get it to flow. On a cold day which oil is getting to your bearings quicker?

Second is flash point temperature. Synthetic has a much higher flash point. On my twin cam harley they spray oil on the underside of the pistons to aid in cooling. How hot do you think that piston bottom is? On my air cooled HD that is my main reason for using synthetic.

There is also the extended drain intervals. I know I can go even longer but I generally change my synthetic at 5,000 instead of 3,000 that is recomended for conventional petroleum based oils.

I am a skeptic and don't believe what I can't see/prove. I did a lot of research before deciding on synthetics. I prefer Red line but have used Mobil 1. Red Line seems quieter and I consume less in my HD.

[frankdatank01]

I prefer synthetic becuase it doesn't breakdown as easily. Longer oil change intervals.

I've read (somewhere) that you will burn a very little more oil with synthetic due to blow-by, regardless of the condition (new, old).

This has something to due with synthetic oil molecules being smaller. But it was stated as a negligible increase.

Could be myth....but makes sense.

I haven't noticed any increase in my vehicles.

Tank

[Old Chevy Mech]

I started using Amsoil in my rebuilt 350 in the K-5 back in 1993. Since then there has been over 165,000 mile put on it. The only thing I had to do was replace every gasket because it leaked more then it used. After re-gasketing and de-carboning the heads the engine ran awesome, and to date now uses no oil.
Just my opinion....synthetic is the best. As far as Zinc goes.....Amsoil sells a synthetic 10W-40 (same one I use) that is meant for older engines and has the needed zinc for older engines. I get my oil analized and have only changed the oil 3 times. Oil Filters get replaced and cut open every 6 months.
Right now, every daily driver vehicle we own including my Hawg runs on Amsoil synthetic in the gears, rears and engine.

I also like the fact that every time I dont change the oil I am one less participant in excessive oil consumption.

Frank

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by Old Chevy Mech

I started using Amsoil in my rebuilt 350 in the K-5 back in 1993. Since then there has been over 165,000 mile put on it. The only thing I had to do was replace every gasket because it leaked more then it used. After re-gasketing and de-carboning the heads the engine ran awesome, and to date now uses no oil.
Just my opinion....synthetic is the best. As far as Zinc goes.....Amsoil sells a synthetic 10W-40 (same one I use) that is meant for older engines and has the needed zinc for older engines. I get my oil analized and have only changed the oil 3 times. Oil Filters get replaced and cut open every 6 months.
Right now, every daily driver vehicle we own including my Hawg runs on Amsoil synthetic in the gears, rears and engine.

I also like the fact that every time I dont change the oil I am one less participant in excessive oil consumption.

Frank

Thanks for the info Frank! Do you use Black Stone labs? Also can you post or email one of your analysis? I'm really interested in seeing what an extended oil change looks like. (considering using on my cars)
s/t

[cparman]

probably going to get my hat handed to me but here goes:

There are only 3 true synthetic oils on the market:
amsoil
redline
klotz
All others start with some fossil fuel and is blended into a synthetic.

For all of the old guys out there: REMEMBER the original Mobil ONE commercials where they took a torch and heated a pie tin with regular oil and synthetic. The synthetic would not become a solid under the heat.
Synthetic oil is better than regular oil. The benefit of it is that it will not break down as quickly as conventional oil, and that the range of temperature it will work in is way bigger than conventional oil. I have always used conventional oil to break in a new motor, and after 3-4k miles I would switch. I do agree that it is a waste of money on a high mileage motor. I have synthetic in wifes ride, and kids ride, and my two old trucks are high mileage motors ( for the short term )

[Old Chevy Mech]

I will if I ever find one! When I got divorced and moved the reports got lost along wth a few other piles of important papers.
I couldnt tell you who it was because my friend was getting it analized with his fleet trucks. He gave me the little bottle, I filled it and gave it back. I am due this spring, so when I get it I'll post it.

Frank

[Werewolf]

Synthetic is the best. From what I understand, you can use it just fine in an older engine, provided the engine doesn't leak. Synthetics cause seals to shrink slightly, so your front and rear main might let them by more easily. My '68 396 (rebuilt 15k ago) has Mobil 1 10W30 in it, and seems just fine with it.

Synthetics have a lot of detergents, and thus, keep your engine clean. You'd see the most benefits from this on a newer or recently rebuilt engine, but after using synthetics long enough, even a fairly grimy engine will clean up nicely.

Since the engine stays cleaner, and synthetics have a much smaller problem with breakdown and a lot more of the "good stuff" that keeps your engine lubricated, the oil change interval is a lot longer - and on a good clean engine, the oil will just brown over slightly.

I will swear by synthetics, especially Mobil 1, as I've got a 1992 Caprice wagon (now wrecked in the back yard ) that I've used Mobil 1 5W30 in since about 200,000 miles. It's never leaked, and now has 515,000 miles on it. Stock engine. The stuff works.



Everything I have runs synthetic, except a little Saturn I have, which burns oil.

[Longhorn Man]

nuf said

[Huck]

I like Mobil 1--ran it in $80K Porsche--(came with it)---ran it in my 97 Vette (came with it). In Alaska and Canada, many use only synthetic for it's cold start capability. What i wouldn't use is any of the Pennsylvania oils as they all seem to build up with crap over time. Castrol detergent seems to be my best second choice. Never had a oil failure.

I use Mobil 1 in my 02 Silverado---unfortunately every freakin vortec 5.3 rattles like crap till it warms up no matter what oil you use ---starts just after warranty ends----have had 3 trucks rattlin like hell!!
I use castrol in love muffins Honda civic ---gets 40mpg if you stay under 70.
I've tried testing to see if my mileage would improve with synthetic-----never say any difference.

[royo]

Has anyone used royal purple .

[4by4bygod]

One upside of synthetic oil is that the molecules are refined to a similar size, which is good for cold weather & start up pumpability. The other upside is that they are a bit better at absorbing heat than "conventional" oil.

That's not to say that synthetics are immune from breakdown due to combustion temps - they aren't, it just takes longer for them to break down.

One thing to understand is that all oils ( conventional or synthetic) are made from refined petroleum hydrocarbons..the only differences are "which" petroleum hydrocarbons, and the level of refinement applied to them.

Some hydrocarbons are better than others.. you've got esters, and you have PAO,( poly alpha - olefin), and you have the less refined basestocks known as group I, II & III, oils.


complicating the issue is that any blend of group II / III oils with a PAO / ESTER oil can legally be called a synthetic. ( thank you castrol )..in fact, a group II or III "conventional" oil can legally be called a synthetic, just because it's been "processed".

the other thing to know is that each basestock has drawbacks..for example, PAO's shrink seals, and have a hard time hanging onto their additives when heat is applied. Esters are good on seals, but easily form acids if moisture is present.

Oil companies blend PAO & ester to try and mitigate the problems of each, but since they are so expensive, they're adding more and more group II & III as a "blend", and also using more solvents as opposed to detergents.. gotta keep those profits up..

if you find an oil that is a true PAO / ester blend, there's still the issue of additive drop out and viscosity change due to heat from combustion temps, but usually this is the kind of oil the racers use, and they dump it out anyway.

As to which is best, it doesn't matter because the oils you get over the counter are all the same.. the trick is to either dump it at 3,000 miles, or utilize oil analysis and do the extended drain interval..I like oil analysis because I'm not relying on marketing.