Crew Cab question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dmh13433 · 01-20-2009, 01:53 AM

Hi everyone,
I just bought an 89 one ton Crew Cab I am going to restore someday. I would like to cut the frame and shorten it for a short box. My first question is will the short box bolt right on the frame without modifying it?
I will post some pictures when I get it home.
Thanks

James McClure · 01-20-2009, 02:25 AM

The4 holes in the front of the new box will need new holes in frame. Rear holes should line up. Problem is your going to have this neat 2' space behind the cab unless you plan on shortning the frame and drive shaft aa wee bit too. I've seen trucks that were LWB with 6' boxes on them with a platform in between cab & box for equipment, hoists, welders, pumps & such. Mostly road service trucks & railroad trucks.

Conundrum · 01-20-2009, 07:34 AM

I could be wrong, but I think that shortening your frame would be the same as shortening any other long bed to a short bed of these years. Once you remove the needed amount (I think it's 14") from the frame behind the cab you should be able to use the original bolt holes in the frame. Then you need to remove 6" from the rear of the frame. I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.

James McClure · 01-20-2009, 08:15 AM

You have to remove material before the rear axel so the frame hump aligns with the wheel openings in the new box. Drive shaft has to be shortened also. jim

bagged74 · 01-20-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conundrum

I could be wrong, but I think that shortening your frame would be the same as shortening any other long bed to a short bed of these years. Once you remove the needed amount (I think it's 14") from the frame behind the cab you should be able to use the original bolt holes in the frame. Then you need to remove 6" from the rear of the frame. I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.

correct sir!

dmh13433 · 01-20-2009, 05:50 PM

So I should be able to cut the 6" off the tail, and the box should bolt right to the frame? All the holes will line up?
I haven't got it home yet, I pulled it to a friends farm until I make room for it in my shop. We set the short box on the frame, it it did look like we will have to cut the frame in the rear, probably 6". It was -25 last week when pulled it home. Didn't want to spend anymore time outside than I had to. Just looking real quick, it didn't look like the rear holes would line up, but the other holes looked close.
I will start posting pictures when I get it home and start working on it.
thanks

OJOE · 01-20-2009, 08:57 PM

you can do a search on this site there is a few post on it and good luck

dmh13433 · 01-20-2009, 11:34 PM

Thanks Ojoe,
I read your thread, but you used the frame from a short box, I would like to keep the 8" crewcab frame on it. I'm just trying to learn as much about it before I start.
Thanks

suicide 63 · 01-20-2009, 11:47 PM

hope this helps
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/lwb_to_swb.htm

dmh13433 · 01-22-2009, 12:04 AM

Hey thanks,
That is good!

01-20-2009, 01:53 AM	#1
dmh13433 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: sioux falls, South Dakota Posts: 29	Crew Cab question Hi everyone, I just bought an 89 one ton Crew Cab I am going to restore someday. I would like to cut the frame and shorten it for a short box. My first question is will the short box bolt right on the frame without modifying it? I will post some pictures when I get it home. Thanks

01-20-2009, 02:25 AM	#2
James McClure One shot, one kill. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saratoga Springs NY Posts: 859	Re: Crew Cab question The4 holes in the front of the new box will need new holes in frame. Rear holes should line up. Problem is your going to have this neat 2' space behind the cab unless you plan on shortning the frame and drive shaft aa wee bit too. I've seen trucks that were LWB with 6' boxes on them with a platform in between cab & box for equipment, hoists, welders, pumps & such. Mostly road service trucks & railroad trucks. __________________ 1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shotJim or Paladin whichever you choose.

01-20-2009, 07:34 AM	#3
Conundrum Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Parsons, KS Posts: 652	Re: Crew Cab question I could be wrong, but I think that shortening your frame would be the same as shortening any other long bed to a short bed of these years. Once you remove the needed amount (I think it's 14") from the frame behind the cab you should be able to use the original bolt holes in the frame. Then you need to remove 6" from the rear of the frame. I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me if i'm wrong. __________________ 74 GMC SWB Project "Sin-thia" Static Dropped 8"f/10"r http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=460030 97 GMC reg cab short bed, 4.3V6 / 5spd, daily driver 220,000 miles, all stock for now

01-20-2009, 08:15 AM	#4
James McClure One shot, one kill. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saratoga Springs NY Posts: 859	Re: Crew Cab question You have to remove material before the rear axel so the frame hump aligns with the wheel openings in the new box. Drive shaft has to be shortened also. jim __________________ 1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shotJim or Paladin whichever you choose.

01-20-2009, 05:50 PM	#6
dmh13433 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: sioux falls, South Dakota Posts: 29	Re: Crew Cab question So I should be able to cut the 6" off the tail, and the box should bolt right to the frame? All the holes will line up? I haven't got it home yet, I pulled it to a friends farm until I make room for it in my shop. We set the short box on the frame, it it did look like we will have to cut the frame in the rear, probably 6". It was -25 last week when pulled it home. Didn't want to spend anymore time outside than I had to. Just looking real quick, it didn't look like the rear holes would line up, but the other holes looked close. I will start posting pictures when I get it home and start working on it. thanks

01-20-2009, 08:57 PM	#7
OJOE Crew Cut Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: MONTGOMERY,AL Posts: 757	Re: Crew Cab question you can do a search on this site there is a few post on it and good luck __________________ 85 SWB 1/2 TON CREWCAB/5.3 03 CHEV 3500 DURAMAX CREW CAB 85 CHEV SWB/TPI 06 CHEV TAHOE (WIFES) 30 MODEL A HOT ROD 07 HARLEY DAVIDSON BAGGER 09 STREET GLIDE AN D A LOT MORE JUNK

01-20-2009, 11:34 PM	#8
dmh13433 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: sioux falls, South Dakota Posts: 29	Re: Crew Cab question Thanks Ojoe, I read your thread, but you used the frame from a short box, I would like to keep the 8" crewcab frame on it. I'm just trying to learn as much about it before I start. Thanks

01-20-2009, 11:47 PM	#9
suicide 63 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: peculiar mo Posts: 219	Re: Crew Cab question hope this helps http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/lwb_to_swb.htm __________________ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304940

01-22-2009, 12:04 AM	#10
dmh13433 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: sioux falls, South Dakota Posts: 29	Re: Crew Cab question Hey thanks, That is good!



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