Por 15

[Blazer Eagle]

im going to put some por 15 on the floor of my blazer and i had a "rust converter" product on it, the directions for por 15 says it doesnt bond well to that so i sanded it off, my questions is where the directions say it doesnt protect against rust when put over paint, it just acts as a barrier of moisture, so my question is to those of oyu who have used por 15, should i remove the paint or not?

[84 400]

I found with POR that u need a good well etched base for it to stick well. If it does not stick good it will flake off. a lower grit snad paper will leave nice gouges for it to bond to. something like 80 or 100 grit works well and sanding in between coats with 150 also helps. Also the metal prep product they make called marine clean works well to inhibit a good bond.

Alot of guys in the jeep world swear by herculiner on floor boards. It works good If you mud it a lot. and in the interor it will not get damaged by UV rays. However it is kind of thick so if your carpeting over it I would just go with POR 15.

[gchemist]

Roll it on. POR15 creates a coat. Thickness depends on you. When exposed to light, the color fades.

I ditched POR15 for ZeroRust. I did my entire engine bay with ZeroRust. It's more of a paint. POR15 is like powder coating. It hardens to create the barrier.

[James McClure]

I don't know about other rust prevention products but I do know about POR. It needs rust for it to work properly and bond securly to the base metal. This is the way to do it get all the rust scale off and don't use a wire brush to do it, use sandpaper or sand blaster. Let the job sit a few days so a thin rust coat developes. You won't see it but it's there. Spray with POR and let get tacky, 1\2 hr. Spray over with paint to keep UV out and your good to go. I did the frame & cab bottom with it 2 years ago, no rust and in good shape. jim

[Blazer Eagle]

well will it still work over paint, or do i need to put it on bare metal?

[James McClure]

Blazer, it has to go on over bare metal with a VERY light patena of rust. Read my post again and you'll understand. You MUST paint over the POR if it will be exposed to ANY UV radiation at all. Best thing to do is paint over it anyway. Overcoat should go on when POR is just tacky enough to touch, but not wet enough for it to come off on your finger. jim

[Billy81]

James is right i used por15 over paint and it ended up peeling right off so don't bother trying you will just waste it.

[gchemist]

POR 15 at work.


ZeroRust at work.

[Blazer Eagle]

gchemist, i dont understand oyur pictures?

are you saying neither of them work?

[andrewmp6]

Best thing you can use on a floor pan is a spay on truck bed liner if don't right its water tight and hard as hell to remove too.

[Blazer Eagle]

yeah im going with carpet and i already have the por 15

ive decided to go all the way down to metal, let a slight rus tdevelop, then use the metal ready stuff por 15 recommends

[Blazer Eagle]

Is it always necessary to apply Metal-Ready first before using POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint?
No. Metal-Ready must be used first before applying POR-15 when
1. Painting on galvanized metal.
2. Painting on aluminum.
3. Painting on stainless steel.
4. Painting on smooth, polished, or new metal surfaces.

does bare steel from my floorboards fall into this?

[blackdiesel]

POR (paint over rust) paint over paint or shiney steel it will fall off, left uncoverd it will chalk. It has it's place, but not on my truck (any more) been there done that not going back. JMO

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Bummer to hear all these problems with POR. I'm familiar with it by its' reputation, but have never used it due to its' expense. I found Martin-Senours' Rust Stabilizer long before I'd heard of POR and it's cheap, works perfect, and can be applied to any metal surface with tremendous results and nearly no prep.
The cars I've used this on are daily drivers so they're exposed to extreme conditions and my '68 Mustang commuted for over 70,000 miles before I parked and covered it, and it's rust stabilized areas have never showed new rust.
My '76 Camaro has been on the road for over 30,000 miles after I stabilized and repaired seven lower external spots on it without rust returning. Some were holes.
I dared myself to return a '66 Mustang to the road,...I had to perform EXTENSIVE bodywork on it back in 2000, including holes in all four floorboards, and it still has not had rust re-occur.
The water soluble rust stabilizer is available at NAPA and adheres to nearly EVERYTHING (including skin, beware!), drys quickly to a black primer, but must cure for 24 hours before painting. I find a spray and paint on product, but I much prefer the paint on product as it does a better job of stabilization. FRANKENTRUCKs' floors have small repairs, and the entire floor is stabilized with Martin-Senours' product.
Todd.

[James McClure]

I've used POR quite a bit. Never had any problems thus far. I tend to go overboard fighting the brown stuff. The bottom of my truck was rusted thru and required panel replacements. I "stitched" in the new panels, sand blasted the whole thing and let it rust up just a little, wiped it with a rag and shot it with POR. Once a little tacky I shot it with a coat of primer, Next came a coat of fiberglass and when that cured it got sprayed with bed liner material. The whole bottom of the truck is bedliner as are all the insides of the sheet metal as well as inside the bed itself. The one thing that didn't get bedlinered that probably should have was the frame. That got the POR & paint but for some unknown reason never got bedliner, CRS strikes again, I had a senior moment. LOL Here's a pic of what it looks like now.Jim