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#51 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Attn: Slammed 67
I've been doing some thinking about your height dilemma Slammed67 and a solution came to me last night as I was headed for bed. I drew up a little sketch to follow that should help to explain it. It only requires modification of your upper bag brackets, rather than your whole front crossmember. If the bag's positon in the control arms was raised height up into the upper spring pocket it would lower the front similar to a lowering spring, so you could achieve your drop in the front, while still having your preffered 80psi in the front bags. Now when it come time to raise your truck up to it's max, it would be slightly lower than it's current max height but it would be better than the 1.5" notched crossemeber method. That doesn't really matter, we're building these trucks to go low not high anyways! Only other possible foreseen problem might be bag wear against the control arm, but you really have to think how often you'll be draggin your truck around with no air in it, you'll kill your tires with negative camber before those bags and even then those bags are made to take a punishment!!! Anyone else have anything to add, maybe I missed something!! Thanks Guys Jared ![]()
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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#52 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 678
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not a wise idea
any slight rubbing of your bags will lead to an air spring failure over time. if you can get it higher up without having any rubbing then it would work. i would imagine it would be easier to buy dropped lower control arms and modify them for bags. or would the lowest point on the dropped LCAs be lower than the crossmember? cause then youd just be hitting the arms on the ground instead of the crossmember. |
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#53 | |
Señor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
![]() ![]() I'm eager to see some shots of lotik's hood hinge solution. Kenneth
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#54 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,977
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Yep, I've been trying to figure out the hood dilemma as well. I've been looking under all kinds of makes for something that might work on these trucks w/o much luck. Lately, I've been kicking around the notion of using a glass hood (expertly prepped of course) & some gas charged hatch prop rods in place of hinges/springs.
Another thought was a reverse tilt hood similar to what 'no limit engineering' sells for 55-59 trucks. W/the reverse tilt, the hinges pivot from the core support & that opens up the modification possibilities to the inner wheelwells (although a bit extreme for my RestoRod theme). Hell, it took a year to figure out my engine accessory brackets to get the exact placement I wanted (a/c & alt @ bottom of the block), so w/enough time I'll figure out something (thinking is usually free in my garage) ![]()
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#55 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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in regard to the reverse opening hood ... check out the late 80's Buick Electras hinge and catch system... I have already studied this set-up and don't think it would take a ton of fabrication to make it, or something very similar, work on one of our hoods.
Hope this helps ... |
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#56 | |
Señor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
BTW, thinking is also free in my garage. It's the ideas that get expensive ![]() Kenneth
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#57 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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JHickson: Good idea, but like they are saying, the bag can't rub at all. I could probably get a 1/2" more drop that way without any rubbing, but that'd be about it. I think the upper plates that NSANE68 sells have a slight indention, but looks like maybe 1/4" or so. I originally had thought of trimming away part of the spring pocket and mount the top of the bag up inside there, but there isn't enough room. I guess with some serious modifications, the spring pocket area could be modified to work, but the cross member notch might be easier in my opinion.
As for the hood XXL, when did I become the guinea pig???? J Would you really even need some type of assist for the hood? I know they are much heavier than newer car hoods, but I think just a prop rod to hold it up would be sufficient. How many times do you raise the hood anyway? Plus, raising an old steel hood with just manpower could really impress the chicks! I just plan on installing bump stops that’ll keep my tires just off the inner fenders. That is unless we can all collectively think of a way around it!
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#58 | |||
Señor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
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Quote:
![]() C'mon... just get a torch out and start creating something. With as many times as you've rebuilt your truck, it should be anything to try a few dozen hood/fender solutions out this weekend! ![]() Kenneth
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#59 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,977
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XXL, we think alike. I researched air cylinders as well (I work for a dairy & we use alot of small air regulated cylinders in our packaging machines/automated palletizers/conveyors) & I haven't found anything attractive, that can be regulated for smooth, consistent operation (up & down). However, we add new equip almost daily so something might peek my interest & then I can research further.....
As far as those expensive ideas, you just have to have more of the cheap ones & it all offsets. . .... right? Yea, right. WOW....1500miles in between hood lifts??? I would be working out 3 times as much as you w/that math & my 68beater.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 03-04-2003 at 12:34 AM. |
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#60 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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There was a guy on the board last year that cut the upper spring pocket up and used cup mounts like the newer chevy's use. On my friends 71 we used cups and with out cutting anything we got the mount to sit alittle higher then the plate. On another one of my friends truck we didn't run a bottom cup and his rides super low and never hits a thing. One thing with cutting the upper spring section of the crossmember is the cross member will still bottom out first. Also I think the lower control arm will come close to hitting a couple inches from where it bolts to the crossmember. I think you would get more bumpsteer with the cut up cups type design. The crossmember i think is the best. It lowers the overall frame up 1.5 inches. I am doing one my burban a 2inch crossmember drop and no spring cup in the bottom,a cup on top versus the plate system, and drop spindle I'm hoping to get my rocker within a 1-1.5 inches to the ground. In a few weeks I am going to start on my extra frame with all this and see if it works. I'll keep you guys posted. Here my truck I just sold.
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#61 |
My Thoughts Exactly!
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 140
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ok...quite a few things to say here...first...I uploaded all the diagrams since so many people wanted them...Just click on the links..I even included a nifty little compressor power indicator for those that need to know that sort fo thing.
basic bag/valve layout The relay setup needed for most switches to handle the current The basics of inside a switchbox Finally...the compressor power indicator second. fastbagged68....that truck is bad ass...any more info and pics on it? Third....the hood hinge thing. We flipped the hood on my buddy's 92 chevy using the front tilt hood hinges and parts from like....I wanna say 89 lesabre or something like that. Works like a charm and looks killer. all in all it cost about 15 bucks for the mod...and that was the hinges from the junkyard mostly. I can get pictures of how he did it if anyone is interested and can firm up the vehicle and year also. I hope this helps...and reumster...I hope you remeber me when I call to order my LED inserts for my project! |
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#62 |
My Thoughts Exactly!
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 140
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Ok...found a couple more diagrams that may come in very helpful...one will help you plan your whole system. This is the diagram that I use to buy my fittings. The second will help with those of you running two compressors and only one pressure switch.
Here are the links. Here is the dual compressor/one pressure switch diagram That diagram might be handy for those of you burning up pressure switches System Plumbing Diagram The only thing I would change is the routing from the tank...the way they did that was just ridiculous. |
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#63 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Thanks BigChevMan for the diagrams
fastbagged68 that truck is soooooooooooooo sweet! I could never bring my self to sell something like that! I guess i should have tried the links for those diagrams first, i get FORBIDDEN for all the links in the first post, but the two links in your second post work.
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! Last edited by JHickson6; 03-04-2003 at 02:47 PM. |
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#64 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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I'm glad I sold the truck- got me 12 grand. Helped me buy my first house. I have a 63 suburban that will be way better. It's going to be way lower. The truck I just sold had a 402BB with the edelbrock performer cam and intake, roller rockers, chevelle shorty headers, 3 inch exhaust, TH 350, 3.08 gears, full ar ride FBSS. the air system had 2 thomas 315 compressors, 6 gallons of air, 8- 3/8" sirai 300psi valves, 1/2" lines to the front, and 3/8" to the rear. I had 2 inch blocks in the rear, early classic bags ( the big ones) I beleive the are called T bags. HaHA. The truck had less then 5k miles on the motor and less then 2k miles on the air system. The was pretty cool but my burban will be better.
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#65 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Update on the Push Button Momentary Switches. I found a better switch at Radio Shack. #275-646 275-644 RED/Black
These work well.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#66 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Ok I just added a 7 gal aux tank. Or at least it says its 7 gals, don't look any bigger than a 5gal bucket. But any way it took my compressor allmost 10 minutes to fill my aproximate 10 gal system. And it got pretty hot! Next time I fill from zero I'm going to the gas station to pre fill this thing! I still need another compressor.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#67 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 678
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Quote:
on the smaller compressors the rule of thumb is 1 compressor for every 3 gallons. on bigger comps or 100% duty cycles you can do 5-6 gallons per comp. i plan on running two viair 450s (100%) and two 5 gallon tanks. |
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#68 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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On the way to work I fried my power wire running to my pressure switch powering the comp. It may have grounded out some where. What are you tieing your power wire to? Fused acc. ???
Also my comp is 100% duty.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#69 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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I just confirmed my suspision that the wire was shorted. It got pinched between the bed floor and the frame. I need new body mounts.
__________________
Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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